Author Topic: yotalet buildup....wheel it some.... build it some (Read 10756 times)

bayouhazard · « **on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:20:48 PM »

I've had a thread going on pirate and some of you may have seen it there. Anyways, here goes.....

Got this a while back and been tinkering with it since. It wasn't charging when I got it so had to figure that out first. then when I fixed that the motor wouldn't run right. Oh, It has undergone a motor swap and the p/o installed a 2000 vortec v6 and a 700r4 that is hokked to a yota case. Anyways, finally found the o2 sensors were swapped left to right. Fixed that and it started running right. Then I welded the diff in the rear. Found it has 4.37 gears. Then I traded out some parts for a lock rite locker which I installed in the front. Also took the full hydro steering and put it on, my old rig is retired and no longer needs it anymore. I installed 2 inch wheel spacers and some lifted shackles in the rear to match the front. Also installed an extra fan on the radiator to cure the overheating problem along with an overflow bottle and a new cap on the radiator. I installed some 33 bfg m/t's to replace the a/t's and then built a front bumper. Also has a b&m quarter stick shifter, which I am not super happy with. Here's some pics of it.....

shot from the rear. You can see the ugly repacement door...

It flexes alright, nothing special...

Pic of the hyd. ram..

and the bumper. Chad and I built it yesterday. Cost me seven stitches last week. still not recovered completely...

Here's the picture of the engine. If you look closely you can see the snorkel coming off the mass air flow...

Here you can see the snorkel where it runs through the passenger compartment along with the shifter and the most uncomfortable bech seat ever.

and here's where the air intake is in the bed of the truck. I also installed a samurai seat and belts for the kiddo's along with a large storage box for extra parts, tools and straps.

Today I will be working on bobbing the bed. It's already kinda too late, lots of damage, but should keep the rear from dragging on the ground.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:21:18 PM »

Spent most of the day yesterday bobbing the bed. It wasn't too bad, other than it sucked to use the sawzall with stitches in my finger.
No turning back....

I cut exactly a foot out..

Here's a picture of it mocked up. I had to cut a little off the frame to make it fit. I also put some longer shackles too so it shouldn't drag the tail anymore.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:22:17 PM »

bayouhazard · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:23:16 PM »

Sure have done a lot of work in the last week or two. First I built some rockslider bars out of 3/16 square. I notched the rockers to keep em tucked up. Next the locker was shot so I installed a new aussie locker and serviced alll the bearings and seals. I also built a set of leaf springs for the front. Used the stock upper two fronts and added three leafs below of some springs I found laying in the yard somewhere. It also gave me the opportunity to install some racho 9000's I bought at the junkyard for five bucks a piece. Next my son let me use his 36 Irocs so I cut the rear wheelwells and the backside of the front wells. I took a torch and warmed up that badass seam and pounded the living

out of it. It actually moved enough to where it just doesn't rub anymore. Ended up having to extend the front driveshaft to keep it from falling out at full droop. Gopt the doubler kit in the mail, but haven't had a chance to install it yet.
Going to Clayton this weekend to try it all out. I will try to post pictures before I leave out.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:24:26 PM »

Prepped the truck last week in preparation to our trip to Clayton. Got the rocksliders installed.

and tested

Then built some better spring packs, installed adjustable shocks, did some cutting and clearancing and installed Chad's 36 inch Irocs.

Rickmil saved me a spot on the trailer and off we went.

In Durant , OK I found hunter orange 12 packs. Guess so you won't get shot getting drunk in the woods.........

Here's some pics of our action......

bayouhazard · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:26:00 PM »

Got some good progress over the last few days. Got the doubler all assembled. Ran it through the gears, seems like it all works.

Making a plate for the back of the case, similar to the FROR unit. It's eating up some time, but heck, I'm saving a few bucks...

Beer boxes work great for paterns.

Here's the seats I scored. Got both for 75 bucks, with the tracks and mounting brackets. I pulled that piece of crap bench out.

Bought this driveshaft at a local junkyard for 30 bux. Looks like a later model shaft, don't know if it's gonna have enough angle. gotta re drill the flanges to make it work too.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:27:16 PM »

Cut out the floor board. Really wanted to stay away from a body lift, so I'm cutting the heck out of the floor. Had to pull all the heat-a/c equipment out. I want to re install the heater. The passenger floor board is also in need of some repair.

Had to lift the motor up several inches, so it was time to get rid of the piece of crap motor mounts. Turned out the brackets were all bent to

and both had some major cracks. glad it's all out and no turning back now...

The new mounts for the motor are made from leaf springs. I used some dodge springs and cut the last four inches off. That gave me a flat plate with a bushing on the end. Then I cut the bushing off the shackles and this gave me the ears to bolt the bushing between. Then I used stock chevy motor mount plates and cut them dow a little and welded the shackle ears on. I bolted them to the motor and then slid the bolt through the leaf spring bushing. The flat part of the spring sat just perfect on top of the frame rail. After checking the height of the motor as wel as level and centered we burned in the plates. Then I cut two pieces of spring and gusseted from under the bushing diagnally down to the frame. It's not real pretty, but don't see it getting bent and should isolate the vibration compared to the solid mounts.

Hoping to get the transfer case mounts made tomorrow. stay tuned for more updates......

bayouhazard · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:28:09 PM »

It's been a few days since I've updated, so I've made a lot of progress since last update. Had to make a new cross member so I whipped up some tabs....

I used some 2x4 tubing I had laying around. It was kind of rusty, but hey it was free. The tubing used to be a soccer goal in a previous life. Welded some tabs and mounted the tubing. I sleeved the holes and used two through bolts on each side, that way it keeps it nice and rigid and stiffens the framarails a little too. I also fabbed and installed a home made copy of the fror plate on back of the case.

I used the old shackles from my chevy 63's and cut them in half to fab the rear case mounts.

I made another cross member to go in front of the case, right behind the transmission. I used 2x2 for the supports fore and aft, and some 2x2 angle for some supports that run just next to the case on both sides. Then I used a piece of 1/4 inch plate for the bottom. I made a cutout for the driveshaft and some holes so I can clear mud from inside the flat belly. Then I welded it all together.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:29:08 PM »

The front cross member is mounted to the original bolt holes from the stock cross member. One of the front holes was stripped out so I re tapped all the holes to a 1/2 inch thread.The whole assembly wieghts in at a hundred pounds or so, but should survive a direct missile attack. Put it on the floor jack and it went right back in place.......

Sure happy with the way it fits and all the clearance I gained. Here you can see the cutout for the driveshaft and the mounts for the forward end of the skid plate.

It clears the transmission by about a half inch.....

Here's a close up of the mounting tabs for the rear cross member...

Next is the exhaust. There's no way any of it is gonna work. It looks like I will have to run the passenger side down pipe under the torque converter and then join up with the driver's side down pipe. I was hoping to fit the passenger pipe under the advance adaptor's coupler, over the front cross member. Just about a 1/4 inch shy of fitting and even if it would fit there it would probably rattle and cook the seals in the adaptor.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:30:07 PM »

Made a list of things that still need to be done. I am trying to get it ready in time for this coming weekend.

DTB · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:34:22 PM »

thats fawsome that you have part of a soccer goal integrated into your truck!

how do the motor mounts work?

DTB · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:39:13 PM »

i think that you can modify that driveshaft to get better angle out of it too

bayouhazard · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:45:07 PM »

Do you have any info on modifying the driveshaft or a link? I haven't driven the truck yet, so I will let you know how the new mounts work. Anything's gotta be better than what it had. I like making stuff and re using stuff. Saves on the budget too. All the parts on the truck have been traded for. Including the purchase price I only have about 1400 invested. Guess that will double when I get my axleshafts and sixshooters.....

DTB · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 08:53:04 PM »

Quote from: bayouhazard on Dec 09, 2007, 08:45:07 PM

Do you have any info on modifying the driveshaft or a link? I haven't driven the truck yet, so I will let you know how the new mounts work. Anything's gotta be better than what it had. I like making stuff and re using stuff. Saves on the budget too. All the parts on the truck have been traded for. Including the purchase price I only have about 1400 invested. Guess that will double when I get my axleshafts and sixshooters.....

why six shooters? are you breaking studs? a fifth stud or ARP studs would be a lot cheaper

bayouhazard · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 09, 2007, 09:07:00 PM »

I'm running full hydraulic steering. I used to run a dana 60 on my last rig with hy steer arms. I used just about every trick to try to keep the arms on. After five failures way off the beaten path I went back to low steer. I want my steering to be bullet proof so I don't have to worry about it. It's such a pain in the ass trying to extract broken bolts on the trail. Guess it's worth 550 bucks to me knowing I won't ever have to deal with that ever again......

bayouhazard · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 10, 2007, 11:26:38 PM »

Worked on it all day today. Went and bought some mandrel 2 1/4 ulumanized bends and a stick of exhaust tubing. It took most of the day building the first few feet with the y pipe. Ended up looking pretty good and sounds a lot diffirent now too. I used the same muffler (flowmaster) as was on it before. Before it had a million bends and turns , and the y pipe was more of a T pipe. Now everything is radiused and runs nice and staight It fit between the floor board and the skid plate with a quarter inch gap above and below. It runs all the way to the back and exits just inside the driver side shackle with a chrome tip for bliing factor. I wil probably wrap the exhaust. Where is a cheap place to get that wrap? Is it worth it?
I will post up some pics of the exhaust tomorrow. Hope fully also get the floor board repaired and seat brackets built, along with a nice center console

bayouhazard · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 13, 2007, 08:12:57 PM »

toypcWell, got the exhaust done. Took quite a while to make it happen. almost eight hours till I had the y pipe the way I wanted it. It's all mandrel bent pieced together. Snuck it right under the converter and joined it up with the driver's side down pipe.

Then it just barely fit between the floor board and skid plate. I cut a hole in the cross member and ran the pipe right through it. I stood the muffler on edge so the exit pipe was up high. Then it runs and exits right next to the shackle.

Next day it was on to the interior to cover up the gaping hole in the floor board. Also repaired some of the rust through on the passenger side.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 13, 2007, 08:14:30 PM »

Then started building a new transmission tunnel.

Scored some aluminum from a buddy who cut it to size for me. Took it home and cut the holes for the shifters and mounted the shifter for the automatic. Also built the seat brackets and bolted in the seats. Put in gear oil in both cases and cut the hole in the hood to clear the air intake plenum.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 13, 2007, 08:15:47 PM »

I really like how the shifters are easy to reach, and the suspension seats are the bomb!! It's really hard to get in and out of now though. I will probably install a steering wheel diconnect. Big bronco Jeff helped out and cut the hole in the hood for me. We are still friends.....the hole looks great!!!!

Today I chased the materials for the square front shaft and bought some shims to bring the pinion angle up a bit on the front end. Installed the new master cylinder, straightened up some wiring, re drilled the rear out put flange for the bigger bolt pattern driveshaft, and did a nut bolt check. I pulled it out of the shop and tried out the gears. there is a lot less drivetrain noise with rubber bushings on the mounts. Tomorrow I hope the ups man brings my cv drive shaft for the front so I can install the front shaft.
For those that run the square shaft, what's the best way to remove the weld from the inside of that square shaft? Or should I just grind a groove in the inner shaft?

bayouhazard · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 17, 2007, 08:08:14 PM »

Finished the doubler install last friday, just in time for the four wheeler photo shoot on saturday. The truck worked awesome, and the only failure all weekend was two blown beads. Went every where and then some, all those rockwel rigs on 46's couldn't keep up.
Only problem is the pinion angle on the front diff causes the yoke to stack under heavy acceleration. Got some shims and installed them today. The u bolts were too short so I dug around and came up with u bolts and spring plates, so I flipped the u bolts in the front while I was at it.
Found I kinked the passenger upper rear leaf, and also found a loose wheel bearing in the front. I have access to the shop for another day or two, so I may go ahead and put in the 63's while I have a chance. Pics to come soon....

Doable · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 17, 2007, 08:25:54 PM »

Nice looking build. I hate welding exhaust pipe. How tight is everything under there? Does the exhaust vibrate against the frame ?

bayouhazard · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 18, 2007, 06:12:53 AM »

Everything seems to fit o.k. There is less than a 1/4 inch between the exhaust and the floor board. Right now I don't need a heater, but this summer's gonna be a pregnant dog. I probably will build a heat shield for it soon. It would be nice to find tubing that is oval like they use on nascar's systems. Before the drivetrain lift there was a lot of noise due to the collector contacting the frame and the solid motor mounts. Now that it has rubber mounts it is nice and quiet. In double low it has a pleasant gear whirring sound that is a lot quieter than some of the 203/205 doublers I've rode in. Seems like most of the noise comes from the adapter between the 700r4 and the front case.

ajordan1975 · « **Reply #22 on:** Dec 18, 2007, 08:00:53 AM »

hey i know you......

looking good man. can't wait till tax return to get my duals....

bayouhazard · « **Reply #23 on:** Dec 18, 2007, 06:11:43 PM »

ended up finding the wheel bearings were loose, so packed all the wheel bearings, packed the cv's, figured out why one of the hubs wouldn't unlock, and replaced some of the fasteners that hold the hubs on.
Now on to the rear. Had two broken studs on the bottom of the housing that hold in the third member. Got the old ones out and installed some bolts from the inside. Looks like I will have to do something about the drain plug pretty soon too, had hell getting a socket on it. The surounding lip is pretty beat up and mushroomed.
When I pulled the pass side drum and all kinds of springs and adjusters fell out. Looks like they were tumbling in there for a while.
I may also go ahead and install the 63 inch chevy springs in there while I have it down. I think I will have to build a shock tower through the bed to fit the bilstein shocks I got from rikmil
Once that is done I will have to save up some money and purchase the new birfield axles from bobby long. Then the six shooter knuckles and steering arms and she should be pretty bullet proof......

bayouhazard · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 30, 2007, 05:36:09 PM »

Got a chance to take a little trip to Shiloh Ridge and test out some of the changes. We went back to a little spot we found that gave us a hell of a challenge last time. First we marked the start of the trail and named it Carnage Canyon.

Starts out just as a dirt wash with some low trees and off camber stuff...

Then it starts to get a little rougher.

It gets really tight, don't think you could squeeze anything much larger through there.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #25 on:** Dec 30, 2007, 05:37:37 PM »

From here on it was a good challenge

The last part kicked my ass, as I just couldn't quite make the turn to exit. There are a bunch of tree roots that hooked over my back tires and made it impossible. We chopped at it for a while, tried pulling it with an atv, put finally had to call for the winch to exit.

bayouhazard · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 30, 2007, 05:38:42 PM »

Here's some man power.

It was so close....but finally called for the winch.

Played around at a few other spots. Really nice to have the doubler, but a lot of spots it was so slick I used the medium gear.

Finally ended the day right here.

There is a second ledge on top, and to get to it I had to hammer down pretty good, on the rev limiter. that's when the ring gear stripped out. We loaded up and went home. Seems like it's gonna be a pain to keep those yota diffs together. I am thinking it is time to put some 60's under it. I have a matching set with detroits and 7.17's and some 42 Irocs on 17" trail ready's to go under it. I may patch it cause I have another set of gears in the yard, but don't see dumping another two grand in the yota's to get em to hold up. Stay tuned for the next mod on the yotalet......

bayouhazard · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 18, 2008, 09:26:53 PM »

Been a few weeks since I posted, but haven't been idle. Dug out the 60's, stripped and cleaned them and started fabbing up all the stuff needed to do the full width conversion. Got the front gears installed, with the 7.17 gears and the detroit. Had to find a 4.56 and up carrier for the rear and weld it up. All new bearings and seals throughout. went yesterday and picked up my new treads. 42 irocs on 17" mickey thompson aluminum rims with the trail ready beadlocks. Brand new, still got the titties on em. Will be pulling the truck back into the shop tomorrow and get started on putting in the diffs, starting with the front. The shackles will be 5 1/2 inches, center to center, and the front hanger will move the spring forward 1 1/2 inches. I will be installing the rears up front. I also will re drill the center pin hole a little over an inch too. my goal is to mve the diff forward a little over three inches. That should give just enough roon to clear the 42's to the firewall. Anywhere else there is tire interferance I will apply the sawzall. I hope to keep the width down to a minimum with the new wheels, as they have 5 inches back spacing and are only 8 inches wide. i should be posting up some pics of the progress, along with some of the pics of my custom made hi steer knuckles that will not break off the studs.

AaronB · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 18, 2008, 11:04:33 PM »

that wash looks pretty cool. cant wait to see the 60's on there.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 19, 2008, 04:54:05 PM »

Quote from: Aaronb on Jan 18, 2008, 11:04:33 PM

that wash looks pretty cool. cant wait to see the 60's on there.

X2 man cool little trail!

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