2 door yukon, whats its name?

[red]

well i found a replacement vehicle finally after the motor overheated in my 4runner. http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z277/redhead1987/new%20blazer/ what do yall think? 327 motor that was dropped in 2 years ago, th350 tranny was rebuilt just over a year ago, locker in the rear axle, np203 t-case thats been converted to part time, main rust areas are on the front clip which i will be updateing anyways at a later date. 1978 chevy blazer thats been used as a hunting vehicle for the last decade, has not seen 6,000 miles in the past ten years. everything works, runs so incredibly smooth and quiet. shifts firm, the only 2 electrical problems are the fan doesnt work on high and the rear window motor is busted.

like the custom drivers seat?

tryin to figure out what i should do 1st. going with either 32 or 33" tires for now (cheap so what gets excellent offroad traction at a dirt cheap price?).
-4" lift using rear springs up front and a shackle flip in the rear.
-heavy duty bumpers and a swing out spare tire carrier
-rock sliders
-skid plates
-update the dash to the 89-91 style
-update the front clip to 89-91 style (fenders grill etc)
-repaint
-see what the hesitation is, this truck has been passing smog inspection so hopefully that might give an idea (i'm smog exempt here in tooele)
-replace the front seats, bye bye ductape
-any other ideas on the cheap? what about later down the road?

[NorCalToy]

dammmmmmmm! lots of duct tape on the drivers seat. but koo truck. gotta love them chevies.

[red]

thats not duct tape, thats the special edition backwoods crome!! 

[NorCalToy]

guess i didnt looke close enough because it looked alot like duct tape to me. 

[red]

i'll be replaceing the seats, not too uncomfortable right now.

[Fearofrunner]

i dont know man, i still like your 4 runner better.  At least you got a truck again though
How much did you pick that beast up for?

[red]

$300. just got a set of 33x12.5" tires (used but excellent tread). 3 bfg mud terrains with 90-95% tread left and on bfg at all for 276 installed.

you ready for some wheelin this weekend man?

[red]

well heres an update. its sitting on 33x12.5 bfg mud terrains and took it on a break in trip up in mantua snow wheelin, did excellent considering most of the time i had snow over the bumpers (sometimes over the turn signals). got burried once, had the front diff dug about 4" into the ground so i was stuck very well haha.

tailgate, the track is completely rusted apart and there is no motor in there, trying to decide if i'm going to go ahead and make the soft top or if i'll pick up a new track/window motor at a junk yard, or stick with it as is.

i got the old radio out (amazed that it worked, the guy that rode with me on the wheelin trip was crackin up when he saw the radio and heard it working) and enlarged the opening so i could get my cd player in. the speaker wires are in horrible shape, i'm gonna pick up new wires and rerun them. fixed my gear identification tab while i was in the dash, took all of 5 seconds (gotta love these old beasts).

burnin through gas pretty quick but its gettin better. when i picked it up i was getting MAYBE 11mpg highway, now that that old fuel and the seafoam is getting out its up around 13-14mpg. going to replace the spark plugs, put an open element air filter on it or make a cold air intake on the cheap. also going to open up the exhaust, think my cat is plugged and i might just gut it since i'm emissions exempt (i hate doing that but its temporary until i can afford the diesel swap). i dont figure on great mileage since it doesnt have overdrive and is an auto, but 16-17 would be nice since my old 81 gmc pickup with a 305 v8 and an sm465 manual, 32" tires, and 3.08 gears got 17-19mpg at 70mph. any other ways to get more fuel economy for cheap from this 327? it has a quadrajet carb on it.

drivers window works but the window motor mounts are nonexistant so the window wont close all the way (mounts broke in the door skin). passanger window works but it needs some help getting up.

i picked up some 4" c-channel for free, cant remember if its 1/4" or 3/8" thickness but trying to decide if i should use that or 2 1/2" tubing, which do yall think i should use for bumpers? overkill is what i do when i fab up metal, 1/2" or 3/8" plate steel bumpers is what i'm used to making if that gives you an idea lol. i'll be using the 2 1/2" tubing as an air tank most likely.

getting a higher pitched whine from the t-case area when i'm driving that varies with speed. doesnt matter if i'm coasting or accelerating, the whine is there in 2hi. if i'm in low offroad the sound dissapears. any idea as to what it might be?

on friday i missed out on a government surplus auction for 5 or 6 1990 dodge diesel 1 ton trucks that the air force had been using as tow vehicles on the runway with 29,000 miles or less on every one of them. they sold for 60 bucks each (banging head on the wall!!). wouda given me the cummins 6bt for next to nothing (all of em ran/drove), crappy auto but still.

[Fearofrunner]

Sounds like you got that thing figured out man.  I was surprised how well it did this last weekend with that one bald ass front AT.  I dont know anything about auto trannys so can't help you with the whining noise your hearing maybe a good lube change might help (i've heard not to get a tranny flush on older autos, it screws them up most times)  Remember too that adding all those "over kill" bumpers ain't going to give you any added MPG but hey you slap a couple of marlin stickers on there and you might get 5-10 more hp

[red]

haha you know i wont put any stickers on my vehicles pat, even if they would get me a few more hp lol. that one all terrain isnt that bald, has about 40% tread left just bald compared to the mud terrains. did get that tire spinnin though while i was plowing up that hill (half the time i had snow over my turn signals up that hill).

i dont think its from the tranny since i dont hear the noise when i'm in low range with the t-case, thats leading me to the t-case then for the problem. great, that cast iron case weighs more than the 4runners tranny/t-case combined haha. cant complain too much though for what little i paid for it. i wanna put a manual in it, just got other things to take care of 1st that are cheaper.

oh by the way everything is loaded back into the 4runner and its ready to roll, moved it to the back yard using the blazer.

[Fearofrunner]

Cool a guy on here is intrested in my electric fan so maybe if he buys it, i'll just have him forward the money to your pay pal account and then i'll only owe you 60 more dollers.  And jeff and allen can get you their money when we come pick it up

[red]

[red]

alright the latest quick fix to the blazer. i've been having a problem with the truck running out of power on inclines, and i mean completely out of power but not stalling. pulled the air filter housing and started playing with the carb with the truck running and realized that the rear butterfly's on the carb refused to open, even at wide open throttle. so i removed the rear upper butterfly's (not the bottom ones just the top) and took the blazer for a test drive. by the seat of the pants meter the truck will get up and scoot alot better and started the same.

this thing is stubborn to start. the only other carbed vehicle i've had to deal with, the 81 gmc pickup with a 305 and the same 4 barrel carb, started MUCH better when cold even without a choke. gave the gmc pickup at most an 1/8 throttle when starting it cold in the teen temperatures and it would fire up within 2-3 seconds. with the blazer (327), in the same temps and cold have to pump the pedal 20 times, crank, and pump it a few times while its cranking and it will fire up in about 7-8 seconds. automatic choke works on the blazer as well as the high idle, neither of which was on the gmc.

[red]

got some work done to it the past couple days so figure i'd update. did a minor air intake mod, longer air cleaner stud so i could flip the lid, provide almost as much air as an open element setup but instead of costing 35 bucks only cost about a buck.

stripped the interior, seats, headliner, carpet, siding, everything but the dash. i have 3 rust holes to take care of (ALOT less than i was expecting), and also got the doors pulled off. once i cut out the areas around the rust holes and patch them i'll repaint the interior and underside, to seal it up (probably wont be driving it by this weekend), then get new seats.

think i'm going to leave the side panels off in the rear, make that extra area into a couple cargo compartments to secure some of my stuff. opinions on this or ideas?

[red]

well the interior is completely stripped minus the dash out of my 79 blazer now with 3 rust holes to take care of but when i removed the rear side panels i started thinking about making storage spaces there along the inside bedsides. any ideas or opinions? if i make it into a storage area i wont be replacing the stock style side panels.

i was thinking of leaving the section in front of the wheel wells for things like cup holders, flashlight clamp, and fire extinguisher and the sections above/behind the wheel wells for tools and some spare parts (axle shafts and hubs for example).

[red]

http://www.utah4x4club.com/index.php?showtopic=5371&pid=57169&st=0&#entry57169 the ideas that are being thrown around right now, ideas welcome

[Fearofrunner]

Any pics dude would be of help.... and dont post a photo bucket link people like pictures to look at on the site. Just a suggestion

[red]

haha sorry pat, i have a hell of a time posting the pics here on marlin because of the image resolution, end up being the size of the avatar pics. click the link to the utah4x4club thread, one of the guys posted up a pic on there to give an idea.

[red]

interior work was put on hold for awhile. 1st i had to work on one of my dad's trailers, needs new suspension and new rails on the sides. i've got one side finished then rolled it out of the garage and now have the blazer back in there. was missing the boot on a tie rod end on my drag link so replaced that (siezed little b*std, took alot of work to get it to unscrew from the adjuster!) and repacked the bearings in the drivers side hub.

plans for this week:
1. get the upper door hinge on the passanger side fixed so the doors not sagging anymore
2. wire in the window motors and door locks so i can actually close the windows
3. start patching the floorpans so i can primer the interior until i can afford to have it coated in line x along with the underside.
4. hopefully get started on the rear bumper

[red]

well door hinge is patched but really needs to be replaced.
got the door windows hot wired, not pretty but it works haha.
floorpans will wait until i'm in my MOS training for the air force and can afford to bedline the interior/underside.

got started on the front bumper yesturday. 3 1/2" diameter 5/16" thickness pipe for the main piece, i'll get more pics as i go along.

what it started as


getting cut

current progress


what its replacing

[DTB]

You need to clean out that garage! BAAAAAAAAAD!

[red]

blame my parents for that! sadly, thats the cleanest the garage has ever been. we have never, ever had room for a vehicle to park in the garage.

[Not A Toy]

Is that a forklift in the background?  these pictures show that there still are hillbillies in the world.

[red]

the red vehicle little towards the left? no thats my dads handicap scooter, he's physically disabled.

[red]

hillbilly no, redneck or gearhead yes.

[Not A Toy]

your not a redneck your a redhead and a retard

[79coyotefrg]

he  traded a yota  for a chebby,  hes  da iminy

[red]

he  traded a yota  for a chebby,  hes  da iminy

hehe and holding your tranny core hostage!!!

[red]

got a little further on the front bumper today before i ran out of oxygen for the torch

front bumper off, had to cut the bolts and the tow hooks off as well


cutting the mounts to get the bumper level front/rear



shot of the underside, where a hydraulic winch will go eventually


inside edge of the pipe is 7" away from the grill, outside edge 10.5".

[Not A Toy]

looks good manbut you should have cutholes in the bumper brackets and ran the pipe through it rather then set it on top. im guessing one good bump and that thing will bend or break right off.