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Tire shops usually have a "Nut" remover. Typically charge a few more pennies for their trouble, but occasionally worth the $$ to avoid the @#$%^&^%$$%^*& of busting your knuckles. I had a similar problem few years ago, and they were able to get them off without much difficulty, and cost me like 4 or 5$Erik
I welded on some and that softened the metal and then I could get a grip on them with vicegrips
Ah, now if you weld and heat them up to its invariant point, or some other point near its liquidus line where you have a liquid-solid solution, and then grip it with some vicegrips immediately before quenching it below 200 C to form your martensite, then you would be able to deform the nuts enough for the vicegrips to lock onto them and then extract them.Of course you would have to take into account the fact that the vicegrips themselves will loose their heat treatment and they will become fused together with the nut you will need to grind off...This approach seems possible, but the liquidus line should be in excess of 1,100 C and I don't know if many welders can achieve this or not, plus you have to keep it above that point while you are welding it and moving the vice grip around. Welding will make a steel harder and more brittle assuming its temperature has risen above the eutectic range. If so, then its microstructure will turn into austenite, and depending on how you cool them down, your likely to get some martensite forming along with some bainite, which is extremely brittle due to the fact that most of its remaining carbon will transform without diffusion, so you will have carbon atom interstitials which prevent slip dislocations to form and thereby creating an instant fracture which is brittle by nature.If you wanted to weld on them only to play with the microstructure, then I would recommend getting them very hot (above 700 degrees C) and then immediately quenching them with a continueous stream of water. This will increase the weight percent of martensite and will give you the most brittle result to play with (shatter it baby!)Of course this will make your studs brittle as well, so therefore don't weld on lug nuts!! SheeeshIdeally you would want to try to get Pearlite (a very strong microstructure) to form, or even better some Spherodite, but you will need to cool it very slowly by holding them in an oven of some sort, which wouldn't work here...Yup, just take it to a tire shop
Ah, now if you weld and heat them up to its invariant point, or some other point near its liquidus line where you have a liquid-solid solution, and then grip it with some vicegrips immediately before quenching it below 200 C to form your martensite, then you would be able to deform the nuts enough for the vicegrips to lock onto them and then extract them.Of course you would have to take into account the fact that the vicegrips themselves will loose their heat treatment and they will become fused together with the nut you will need to grind off...This approach seems possible, but the liquidus line should be in excess of 1,100 C and I don't know if many welders can achieve this or not, plus you have to keep it above that point while you are welding it and moving the vice grip around.
Gator Grip, never tried it but it could work.
I got them off and threw them out and got a new set of 4, one on each wheele should do fine to protect my brand new 35" boggers and rock crawler black steely rims, thanx for all the help and advice
Thanks for the advice. I have a freind that works at the junk yard and every time he finds alug nut key he snags it so he luckily had one that fit, guess they arent one of a kind afterall
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