Rears up front

Started by TigerToy, May 18, 2004, 07:11:07 PM

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TigerToy

Is there anything I need to know about doing this?  Modifications etc.

yotaboy79

well what do you already know??and it depends on what way you plan on doing it

TigerToy

I don't know much aside from the fact that most bolts tighten when you turn them clockwise.  I mean can I just bolt them in, do I need to move any hangers, does it move my axle.

yotaboy79

it will move your axle forward i think 1 1/2 in there longer i cant remember howmuch longer off the top of my head. you can build a drop front hanger for it or get longer shackles to make them fit you might have to run boomerang shackles, and then after all that shim up the axle to get your pinion angle right, im sure that white will come and help you out he knows more than me about doing this good luck

lowgeared

They are a bolt in.  I took out the over loads and added a couple long thin leaves.  I used sky's relocation plates that help move the axle back a bit.  It is super flexy now and gave me a little lift too.  I have a moderate shackle lift so no issues with anything hitting the frame.
Friends help you move.  Real friends help you move bodies.

GRM

They bolt in. THey move the axle 2" forward, and shouldnt really be used with stock steering. THey require at least a 4" shackle, and even that is close. Also you need to put a 3/8" plate on the drivers side spring pearch to make the truck sit level. With the spring in the stock spring pad location, you cant use the stock front driveshaft. The 79-83 leafs use the bushings you need to make them bolt up. If I remember right, you can use 79-83 bushings in the 84-88 springs to make them bolt to the stock front hanger.  I used the 83 springs so I didnt have to deal with the bushings.

WHen I did mine, I used 83 springs, and cut down 2 leafs out of an 84 pack. I did highsteer at the same time and used 7" shackles. I figure it lieted the truck about 6-7" over stock. Also, I need to add a  4 degree shim to get the caster set properly again.
Also remember to re-locate the bump stops so they com ein when the spring goes flat.

I have pics of when I did mine on my website. http://deerewagon.i8.com

yotaboy79

grm i dont see whats so bad about having your springs going into a neg arch when fully flexed as long as your shocks arnt bottoming id think you would want them to go up as far as posible to get more articulation hell the stock springs on my 79 are at a neg arch just sitting there on flat ground?

WHITE_TRASH

If the springs go negative they willl fatigue and eventually break.  If you set your bumpstops so the springs go flat and no more they will stay arched and last MUCH longer
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

TigerToy

OMG, I thought that rears up front was the cheap and easy way.  Heck, my buddy is gonna sell me some all-pros for fifty bucks. 

WHITE_TRASH

Not a bad deal at all.  Now you dont have to do much but bolt them in.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

GRM

Rears up front arent easy, they are just cheap. I think I have about $20-30. I think it took me about 12 hours to build, and install my rears up front packs.
ALso, they ride awesome, flex great, and they are cheap. With a choice of all pro springs, or highsteer, I chose the highsteer (I was getting tired of  cracking drag link seats)

All pro springs are a deal and a half for $50. Expecally if they are the older, non mexican ones.

As for the neg arch. My springs go into neg arch, when they compress the bumpstops.

TigerToy

Its the cross-over steering that I can't afford.  I would have to get an ifs box, and all the rest of the hardware.

GRM

Yup. Between the crossover, rears up front, square front d-shaft, and all the other misc stuff, it cost me aprox $550. Not bad at all considering how much more stable the truck is.