Author Topic: Newbie - 83 YOTA! (Read 23892 times)

Brian83 · « **Reply #60 on:** Jun 08, 2004, 12:04:50 AM »

does he need to have 2 of the exact same batteries? he has a spare marine 12v that he would like to use with his stock one

84runner · « **Reply #61 on:** Jun 08, 2004, 12:09:25 AM »

Just same voltage

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #62 on:** Jun 08, 2004, 12:11:16 AM »

I have duals in my 84, both are on the flatbed. The main is on the passenger side so its a shorter run to the main truck supply and starter. (I have a 350 in that truck) The secondary is on the driverside of the bed and up until the isolator died the main pos cable went straight from the alternator to the isolator. The isolator split off and ran the main first then when it would basically trickle the main and charge the secondary when needed. It worked awsome till the damned isolator died, then I just ran the battery +'s together and it still works great but I need tp put my relay in like brainless

I have never had a problem with using different batteries together in any dualed rig. The main is a group 24 and the secondary is a 31c which basically amounts to a semi battery.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #63 on:** Jun 08, 2004, 08:41:51 PM »

the relay I use is NAPA # AR200, good for 60 amps. ez hook-up too. and like they said, it does not matter at all so long as there both 12V batts. $Beer Chug\'n$

Brian83 · « **Reply #64 on:** Jun 12, 2004, 10:21:54 PM »

I found a set of chevy springs for $50 but I would rather go with mazdas. Whay years can I use? The only mazda truck at the junkyard was a 90 2wd? would those work, they only want $30 for the pair! I didn't have a tape measure with me so I couldn't figure out lengths and what not, I was just there looking for a tailgate.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #65 on:** Jun 12, 2004, 10:23:59 PM »

Get em'! That is pretty dang cheap for a set of springs, plus youll get a little more lift out of 2x springs as they are spring under on Mazdas I think.

Holy crap I just hit post 1600 Im gonna go out in the shop and cry at my laziness!

yotaboy79 · « **Reply #66 on:** Jun 13, 2004, 09:43:09 AM »

at my local junk yard all leaf springs front rear right left it dont matter there just 15 dollers apeace with a 1 doller core charge there cores are based on scrap metal

Brian83 · « **Reply #67 on:** Jun 13, 2004, 04:17:36 PM »

How did you all get that tar out of the cab? My carpet is nasty and I want to pull it out but that tar stuff or whatever it is looks weird

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #68 on:** Jun 13, 2004, 04:44:09 PM »

There are two ways to do it, I hit the bottom of the floor with a hammer and made the floor flex (not dent) and it would come off in chunks. In the spots that I coudnt get under with the hammer I used a heat gun and putty knife (MESSY) If I was to do it again Id get a couple lbs. of dry ice and cover the floor with it then it would come up in huge pieces Im sure.

yotaboy79 · « **Reply #69 on:** Jun 13, 2004, 05:26:56 PM »

once you get part of it you can just take a

and a chissle and chip it away

Brian83 · « **Reply #70 on:** Jun 13, 2004, 08:49:59 PM »

tomorrow while I'm getting my mazdas I want to look for some front springs too. I thought about rears up front and I would really like to do something that will give about 2-3 inches and not have to do crossover yet. I think there is a few wagoneers there, can I use those? I did a search but couldn't find out anything about that topic

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #71 on:** Jun 13, 2004, 11:21:51 PM »

Yeh you should be able to get away without crossover for driving around but Id limit the droop on the driverside till you get crossover.

Brian83 · « **Reply #72 on:** Jun 17, 2004, 03:28:53 PM »

I tried the dry ice thing WT. WORKED GREAT!!! I got 5lbs. of dry ice(.50 cents/lb.) and broke it onto chunks and spread it over the tar. had a beer and a smoke and then took the dry ice out, hit the floor with a hammer to loosen up the tar and it came right out in 5 and 6 inch pieces. Sorry I still can't find my DAMN CAMERA! or I would post pics

84runner · « **Reply #73 on:** Jun 17, 2004, 10:36:36 PM »

I think if you leave the shocks that you have on it , on it. Than they should limit the travel enough, that is how I did it before I got my hysteer

Brian83 · « **Reply #74 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 07:24:06 PM »

So I am about to bedline the inside of the cab while the whole interior is out, but first I need to patch 2 holes, one by the clutch pedal at the drivers feet, and the other is in the exact same spot on the passenger side. I can't get a welder,but my friend offered his Oxy/Acetelyne torch. I was thinking I could use some Brazing rod and like 14 gauge sheet metal to patch the holes( about 5 inbches by 7 inches). OK? Work? anything to worry about? I would sure like to post pics but I lost my camera, and I am freakin poor right now.

yotaboy79 · « **Reply #75 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 07:48:09 PM »

i used some fiber glass to patch some rust holes heres a pic the hole goes from the gas pedal all the way down to the other corner of the pic about a 6inch diameter i just took a 2x6 and proped it up so it was flush with the floor under neath then laid the fiberglass cloth down and let it dry

Brian83 · « **Reply #76 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 08:25:34 PM »

thought about that but I don't like it. I'm set on patching with steel, just wondering if my idea is gonna work, I don't see any problems, just askin.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #77 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 08:31:31 PM »

Yeh you could braze the patch in there. How do you think they did that kinda stuff when your gramps was a kid. Hell till the mid 70's the big 3 didnt even use bondo they still "tinned" all the major body seams.

Brian83 · « **Reply #78 on:** Jul 07, 2004, 08:36:53 PM »

hey WT, what size brazing rod? never done it before, but I'm not too stupid and figured I could figure it out

81Toy4x · « **Reply #79 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 12:52:23 PM »

I also want to get that tar off of my floorboard. I will use the dry ice method. Then after that I am thinking about using the Napa Rubber undercoating in a can to do the floorboard. My main concern is durability. Anyone have any reccomendations for a durable coating to put on my floorboard? I'd do Line-X if i had the $$$.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #80 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 03:10:14 PM »

Brian, I suck with at any kind of torch welding so I leave that up to my buddies that are really good at it.

I would think that youd need a #0 tip and probobly 1/8" rod but like I said I dont do it thats just what I can remember from the last fiasco that involved me and a welding torch.

81 stay away from the crap sproay on that napa sells! Do yourself a favor and get a gallon of hurculiner from them or schmucks instead you will be much happier with the results. A gallon of herculiner will run you about $100.

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #81 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 03:17:22 PM »

have u used the herculiner yourself. i've seen it and it looks cheesy

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #82 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 03:19:55 PM »

Yup did the whole interior of a 76 cruiser in herculiner. The key is to do lots of coats not just a couple of quickies and leave it, if you do that it will look like crap. But if you take your time and give it a lot of coats it will turn out really good.

Brian83 · « **Reply #83 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 06:06:35 PM »

I did a friends truck interior and bed with the krylon spray on bedliner, not undercoating and it turned out great!! holds up well. i'll most likely do that to my interior and bed too. I used herculiner on my bros truck and I didn't like it.

84runner · « **Reply #84 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 06:28:21 PM »

If you havent brased before I would suggest mig welding it. The brazeing rod is gonna run to the heat of the metal not just where your pointing the torch. Keep about a 2-3 inch space between the torch and the metal heat it slowly until the rod almost melts when it touches the metal where you are trying to braze

83yota · « **Reply #85 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 06:29:08 PM »

i used that cheap stuff from napa and i HATED it. i used it on the rockers and the lower parts of my fenders and i took it out and it cam off in a big glob of goo. dont do it save yourself the time and agrivation. this is my

Brian83 · « **Reply #86 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 08:05:06 PM »

Ok I found my freakin camera! I don't even wanna say where it was

So here is a pic of how the truck sits now, all primed and ready for paint, sorry, it is getting dark out now but I was too excited not to post. I think I did a pretty good job on the body work I had to do. I hate bondo but I used it in a few areas, but mostly a body hammer and dolly. the interior is completely stripped out so I can weld the new steel in the floor. Still collecting parts for the lift, I'm going 3 inches with 33 inch tires. I have mazdas for the rear but I'm going to trade them for rangers next week, still looking for some front 3 inch springs, and TIRES! I can't find tires cheap enough for me yet(FREE). I still haven't decided what color to paint it. thinking either flat black, or charcoal. I also installed a set of ROCKSTOMPER motor mounts because I found out that mine were done, I got them from a friend who decided to chain his instead for only $50. They did transmit a lot of vibration, so I got some rubber spacers, about 2 inches long, and put them in between the seat mount and the seat and I could no longer feel the extra vibration! This was using the hard poly seats with the seat covers.

yotaboy79 · « **Reply #87 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 08:08:43 PM »

wheres the pic?

83yota · « **Reply #88 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 08:13:43 PM »

good question

Brian83 · « **Reply #89 on:** Jul 08, 2004, 08:14:47 PM »

sorry, computer went nuts

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