Topic: Battery and brake lights stay on in dash???

[Mnmstoy]

Brake & battery light
I'm posting this for a buddy. He has already replaced the Alternator and voltage regulator. Dash lights still stay on. He also replaced the Master cyl. cap that has the wires on it. Didn't get a great response from 4x4wire.
Mike
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a 82 Toyota with a 22r engine. The other day, both the brake light and the battery light both came on at the same time. I've read that this is a sign that the alternator is starting to go bad and or the skinny wire coming off the positive battery(goes to alternator) post could be corroded needing cleaning or the whole wire it self could be bad causing both battery and brake lights to come on.
Has anyone had this experience with their toy or heard of this happening?

Also does anyone know where the "alt fuse" is at. Or the "alt wire junction box" is at. Or are these things not on a 82 toy. I read these things should be checked also.

Thought I'd throw this out there at the same time that I'm researching it and pawing around the engine of my new to me toy.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Mike

[chevyLUVtoyota]

my truck did the same thing...it was a ground on the alt.. i ran a new one from my alt to the frame fixed it...

[rattlecanpaint]

I've been through this same thing just recently.  Still working on it as a matter of fact.  Mine burnt the poistive wire in two.  Long story short, I've put 2 different alternators on it and 2 different voltage regulators on it and it still doesn't work.  So I'm having a guy build be a 1 wire delco alternator that bolts right up.  It's a crap shoot whether or not you get a good alternator from any ofthe parts houses.  I called toyota and they've discontinued my alternator, so I'm stuck with aftermarket.  All the parts houses will test it for you and it may or may not be good by their machine, but when put on a vehicle with a load they don't work.  Your best bet is just to convert to a GM one wire alternator.  And this is coming from someone who is a purist (And especially anti GM) but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

[THK Matt]

coming from someone who is a purist (And especially anti GM) but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

x2

[89toy]

I've had a lot of problems with my alt when I first bought my truck.  79 with a blown 20r, came with an extra 22r that i put in.  I looked for any wire the was screwed up, but really couldn't find anything.  After about 7-8 times of having to jump start my battery (which was new) on the trail by my buddies, I went to NAPA and bought a GM 1 wire and built an adapter (really easy to build) to let it work with the motor and belt.  Haven't had a problem since (been in the truck for about 2 years now).  Just my  , I really don't like having to work with the toy alternators...so I got rid of it.

[Mnmstoy [OP]]

So what wire off the alt. would be the ground wire? He still having problems. Battery checked out good. Had the new alt. checked before taking it home so that was not the problem. I Haven't looked at his truck yet.
Mike

[*ROKTOY*]

Have you checked voltage at the battery with engine running?

[jimbo74]

Had the new alt. checked before taking it home so that was not the problem. I Haven't looked at his truck yet.
Mike

if it isnt a oem its a piece of crap... those replacements kragens or whatever work maybe half the time and always test good on the bench... they jsut dont work in the cars... i worked in the auto industry long enough to see that firsthand

[Mnmstoy [OP]]

Have you checked voltage at the battery with engine running?

Yeah, It was 13.?? around that with truck on and 12.??with it off. I beleave he got his stuff from Advance Auto Parts.
Mike

[*ROKTOY*]

Yeah, It was 13.?? around that with truck on and 12.??with it off. I beleave he got his stuff from Advance Auto Parts.
Mike

Well then it is charging, take a look a the large black plug on the drivers side fender well. Check all the connections there I had the same problem and found that one of the wires had pushed out the back of the plug and was not making a connection. Fixed it and have not had a problem since.

[Mnmstoy [OP]]

cool thanks...I'll get him to look at it...or I may go over tomorrow.
Mike

[Duffil]

also make sure the connectors in the plug on the back of the alternator are clean and tight.

[Mnmstoy [OP]]

He's not having a charge problem. just wants the dash lights to work right. A easy fix is to remove the bulbs but...that won't help later on down the road.
Thanks for all the reply's. I think that is enough info to get him started.
Mike

[8D3TOY]

I went through all this replacing everything and anything with the alt/charge system,turned out to be emissions related.  Dont know about 82 but my 83 has a computer and it was running way rich and the computer trips the charge/brake light combo indicating a problem like a check engine light, so if you have exhausted all other options it is something to consider.  I had to find someone familiar with the old yotas and he knew right away,rebuilt carb and a few vacume items and no problems anymore.

[Mnmstoy [OP]]

We did remove all his emmsions stuff...wonder if that is related? I hope not.
He might not like that. I had him get rid of that junk trying to find a vacuum leak. It runs great now just them dang lights.
Mike
It's not running rich either.

[93tonkatoy]

also make sure the connectors in the plug on the back of the alternator are clean and tight.

x2 happened to me.

[85toycrawler]

i had the same issue in my 84.  turned out i had a draw in the battery, and that way causing the alternator/regulator/battery all to go bad.  so once i found the draw and fixed it, all was well again.

[rattlecanpaint]

In the kick panel on the drivers side there is a fuse box.  Take the kick panel off and remove the grey relay.  It'll say Charge Light Relay on the side of it.  That should get the lights to go out.  I just got my truck back from the alternator guy.  Had to break down and have a GM 1 wire alt installed.  the guy modified the case of the alternator and extended my adjustment bracket.  Works great.  89toy, did you have an idle problem after going to the Gm alt?  There is a wire from the voltage regulator that goes to the heater circuit in the carb.  (I've been through every wire in that circuit a few times)  Mine seems to be stuck on high idle.  Might also be something sticking in the carb, but it who knows.

[89toy]

In the kick panel on the drivers side there is a fuse box.  Take the kick panel off and remove the grey relay.  It'll say Charge Light Relay on the side of it.  That should get the lights to go out.  I just got my truck back from the alternator guy.  Had to break down and have a GM 1 wire alt installed.  the guy modified the case of the alternator and extended my adjustment bracket.  Works great.  89toy, did you have an idle problem after going to the Gm alt?  There is a wire from the voltage regulator that goes to the heater circuit in the carb.  (I've been through every wire in that circuit a few times)  Mine seems to be stuck on high idle.  Might also be something sticking in the carb, but it who knows.

  no...I put mine in, charged my battery, and there it goes.  It idles high for about 2 min when cold (naturally), but after that it goes down to around 7-750 and keeps it until I hit the gas.  I didn't mess with the alternator at all though...I made my bracket myself to where the belt still lines up well. 

I think the GM is the easiest way to go mainly because you don't have to worry about all the wires (I hated trying to find out what was wrong with my factory wires...so I said screw it and bought the GM).