Topic: Bad TPS feel like fuel starvation?

[MiniSimp]

Throwing 2 codes:
7 - Open or shorted TPS
11 - Short in AC or TPS or ECU

I just put a TPS in and bench adjusted it, but I didn't test it first. (yeah yeah, I know )

A) Truck is hard to start, kill the battery sometimes trying. Fixed with this: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
B) Engine likes to sputter and die at full throttle but runs fine at idle.

So...TPS or something worse?

Also, where is a good source for a new TPS?

[Duffil]

have you checked the plug to make sure you have good contact on all 4 pins?

[MiniSimp [OP]]

have you checked the plug to make sure you have good contact on all 4 pins?

Nope, checking now.

[MiniSimp [OP]]

Connecting fine, still throwing both codes.

[crawlerdan]

if yall want a new, and i mean new, tps, i have one as a trail spare i could part with

just pay shipping

[MiniSimp [OP]]

if yall want a new, and i mean new, tps, i have one as a trail spare i could part with

just pay shipping

is there any difference in years?

[crawlerdan]

is there any difference in years?

22re is 22re buddy

but if it helps, mine was purchased for my 87

if yall want it PM me an address n stuff

[MiniSimp [OP]]

Ok, fixed half the problem http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump

If you find your engine is hard to start when it has been sitting for a while, but is still warm, you might have a problem with the fuel pump not turning on. I noticed my '85 4Runner would need to be cranked for many seconds before it would start. When I was doing some work on the engine, I decided to install an electronic fuel pressure sender in the fuel injector rail (I drilled a hole in the end of the rail, soldered in a brass pipe elbow and screwed the sender into that) and noticed when the engine is cranking but not starting, my fuel pressure was zero. Then, it would pop up to the normal operating range and the engine would fire. I reasoned that I had to crank the engine fast enough to pull sufficient air into the AFM to trip the fuel pump contacts and pressurize the system (I suspect I have an air leak in the fuel system that is letting the residual pressure bleed off over a few minutes - I see no fuel leaking). Anyway, digging through the handy FSM, I found the following:

[Duffil]

bad link bro

[MiniSimp [OP]]

Fixed.

[Tallchevy]

Do you still need the TPS? I have one from an 85. I had the 85 TPS on my 87 & I had problems. It will work if you don't have to smog your rig (I know you trailer yours). To make a long story short, yes there is a difference between 85 & 86/87 TPS 

[MiniSimp [OP]]

Do you still need the TPS? I have one from an 85. I had the 85 TPS on my 87 & I had problems. It will work if you don't have to smog your rig (I know you trailer yours). To make a long story short, yes there is a difference between 85 & 86/87 TPS 

Yes, need one!

[Tallchevy]

I live in Fremont. Let me know how you want to get it & it's yours 

[MiniSimp [OP]]

PM Sent

[Tallchevy]

PM returned

[DeMented Toys]

My 92 PU was taking forever to start too.  I jumpered it and now it starts right up.  I did however run the jumpers to a switch in the cab just in case I ever wanted to un-jumper it.  Like if I roll it over and turn the engine off, then I can turn off the fuel pump too.  Hopefully I will never need that switch, but it just took a few minutes and is better than having my fuel pump going with an engine fire or something. 

[kneedownnate]

This is the info I got from my brother.  Most of it sounds like what's been said here already, hopefully there's something helpful in there.

Code 11 can indicate a misadjusted TPS.  It happens when the TPS does not give a "closed throttle" signal to the ECU.  In other words, it may need to be adjusted to make sure that it's showing idle when the throttle is closed.
But I agree that it sounds like the AFM is not sending the correct signal to the ECU, either due to a failed AFM (unlikely), a loose/off AFM connector (possible), or a broken/cracked intkae tube (almost inevitable).

[Duffil]

this just reminded me--what about the adjuster on the opposite side of the throttle body--the one that hist the dashpot to slow the throttle closing...it could be improperly adjusted...not the root cause, I would say, but something to check.

[kneedownnate]

Good point.  Don't you hafta set it with X amount of air gap with it not running?

[DeMented Toys]

Did I mention I'm in the process of swapping the carb wiring harness from my 87 cab that I rolled into a donner 94 cab so I can still run my weber carb setup...     Don't want to start the whole EFI vs Carb topic...  But, yeah...