J-Arm Ball Flip info

[OOPS]

 Put on jack stand and remove tire. Spray all of the area with a good pentrating oil. Remove the nuts and washers, spray the cone washers with a good pentrating oil, find the split on the cone washers and hammer a small screw driver into the split, this will expand the cone and push it up. Remove the old arm, place the shims on the studs if they came off with the old arm. Place the arm on the studs, you may have to wiggle the knuckle a bit to get the center pin on the arm to line up. Tap into place with a hammer. Replace cone washers, washers, and nuts. Torque to 71 ft lbs unless you have FROR ARP studs then torque to 100-110 ft lbs. Done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MarkyB]

 
Apparantly the stock drag link won't work  with the flipped ball.

[Duffil]

Apparantly the stock drag link won't work  with the flipped ball.

nope.  If you don't have a dropped (adjustable) link, get a tube that will fit over your stock link, cut it, bend the link as needed drill the tube so as to plug(rosette) weld it, and then stitch up the edges.

I had to do that to get by until I got and adjustable, dropped link.

[MarkyB]

OK, I have an old Ford that has double ended clamp thingy on the tie rod.

Would that work?

[Duffil]

OK, I have an old Ford that has double ended clamp thingy on the tie rod.

Would that work?

I don't know.  I have never seen a double ended clamp thingy ...you have a pic?

[82juguete]

Check out how cool my J arm looked before Highsteer....

Yea I wish I would've had a spare at the time...

[Duffil]

Nicely done!

[82juguete]

Nothin like turning the steering wheel one way and having the tires turn the other way to signify that your day of wheeling is ending early..

[Duffil]

just to clarify, that is a stock, unflipped arm, correct?  looks factory to me.

[82juguete]

right its factory...flipping it probably wouldve been my next mod..but it had other plans

[MarkyB]

I don't know.  I have never seen a double ended clamp thingy ...you have a pic?

I'm still rehydrating from working on the front end in the 100 degree heat with 95% humidity.
It looks like Ford cut the tie rod and put a clamp over the two ends so the toe could be adjusted.  This is on a 2wd.
I'll get a pic.

[Duffil]

Tie rods are all like that.  But you would need the ends from a drop link to make it work.  Or you could cut up and bootyfab the factory rod.  How much lift do you have? I have a cut/turned/bent/welded stock link if you want it.

[MarkyB]

Here's a pic.  only about 2 inches of lift.

[MarkyB]

I don't know.  I have never seen a double ended clamp thingy ...you have a pic?

Adjusting Sleeve:

[Duffil]

if you want to use the clamps, you will need the ends from a drop drag link.  or you could cut /turn / sleeve/weld your stock link.

Adjusting Sleeve:

you cannot use that alone with your stock arm.  It's not designed to hold unthreaded rod together.

[85toycrawler]

im definately going to have to do this.

[YotaJosh]

Thanks for the great writeup! I did my stock arm and a spare arm in less than an hour. Now my steering will clear the fancy ubolt flip kit.

[Duffil]

Thanks for the great writeup! I did my stock arm and a spare arm in less than an hour. Now my steering will clear the fancy ubolt flip kit.

Glad to hear it!

[85toycrawler]

yeah i think i can do this instead of buying a drop draglink.  that way i can save up for crossover and hi steer.

[Rockhoppa]

I did this same thing a few years ago. I was running 7 inch springs with a droped draglink. I only broke 1 j-arm, but didnt want to brake another. I fliped the ball, & didnt brake another 1. I always carried a spare though.

[toyo487]

I did this a while back and have had good luck with it.  I've let the drivers side drop way down with no problems, but I carry a spare just in case.

[84solidaxletoy]

After being shown this, it gives me a bunch of good ideas, or atleast what i think to be good ideas. Thanks duffil.

[Duffil]

[THK Matt]

im not to familiar with SA fronts.... the j-arm does what exactly. i read this and couldnt figure it out.
and what steering configuration is this for?

is it 4WD friendly?
i have been told just go hysteer but i dont do rockcrawling to really need it..

help?

[82juguete]

The j arm hooks up from the steering arm on the driver's side, and accepts the drag link from the pitman arm.  This is found on stock "push-pull" steering setups on solid axle rigs.  Flipping the ball is a good modification because it is located on the bottom of the J arm, and  even with mild lifting, the increased angle of the drag link puts strain on the ball.  Flipping the ball to the top relieves much of this strain, and leaves less possibility of breakage.  I wouldnt worry about histeer, unless you start lifting the front and experiencing bump-steer, but the J arm flip is worth considering if you are capable.

[Duffil]

im not to familiar with SA fronts.... the j-arm does what exactly. i read this and couldnt figure it out.
and what steering configuration is this for?

is it 4WD friendly?
i have been told just go hysteer but i dont do rockcrawling to really need it..

help?

if you are thinking about doing an SAS, hysteer is what you will have.  You already have the correct box for it, an dit is FAR superior to a flipped ball in terms of brake steer, bump steer and limiting flex.

[Duffil]

This is post-MCR6 at the Rubicon Trail.  Apparently even my stiff springs will flex the drag link into the shock.

[jimbo74]

could you flip your shocks upside down?

[Duffil]

could you flip your shocks upside down?

no.  you do not install shocks opposite of the way they are designed to be installed.  I am not worried; It's a $13 shock, and all the wheeling I've done until The 'Con, it hasn't caused a problem.

[jimbo74]

no.  you do not install shocks opposite of the way they are designed to be installed.  I am not worried; It's a $13 shock, and all the wheeling I've done until The 'Con, it hasn't caused a problem.

i think there are some shocks that are ok to be mounted upside down.. if htis is the case, htere would be no problem with it correct?