22R/RE Rebuild vs. Rebuilt

[Yota87Truck]

I have an '87 Toyota Pickup with a 22R and my friend has a '93 Toyota Pickup with a 22RE and both of our trucks need new Rod Bearings....I wanted to know which is the cheapest option.  My options include rebuilding the engine myself, taking the old engine to a machine shop and have them rebuild it for about $1500 or buying a rebuilt motor off the internet for about $1500.  Which is the cheapest way to acomplish this?  I have never rebuilt an engine but I know a guy that has that would be helping me.

[RHG]

DIY! Only way to go especially if you got someone helping you. Take the money you save and get a cam, header, and open up the intake. Not much to be had from a 22re but those will give it a lil more oooomph. Kinda like squirels on crack

[Yota87Truck]

So how much does a Rebild usually cost?

[RHG]

There are guys that have used a website to buy rebuild parts real cheap. I cant remember the exact site address. Its something like enginebuilder but its not spelled like that. Hopefully someone else will chime in and hook you up with the address. I think you can do a very thorough rebuild for $800 Then add the cam and header to that price.

[Yota87Truck]

was it this web site: http://www.engnbldr.com/
How long does it usually take to rebuild an engine?

[RHG]

Ya thats the one, uhm well if you got some one who knows what they are doing then after you get the block machined and back from the shop then I'd say 1 full day and it could be back together. Its just a LEGO set haha. Those things were great!

[Yota87Truck]

Cool thanks, does anybody else have any tips or anything to add...

[BLACKDOG]

get yourself a FSM, and go to work

[Yota87Truck]

i have a chilton manual...does that work?

[BLACKDOG]

i have a chilton manual...does that work?

No.  It may help some, but I wouldn't go that route.  I tried to do it that way the first time I did my heads on my 3.0.  Using the Chilton AND the Haynes manual together wasn't near as helpful as using the FSM.  The FSM has all of the measurements you will need, shortcuts  you can take, etc. 

[Yota87Truck]

where can i get one and how much are they?

[BLACKDOG]

where can i get one and how much are they?

I believe there are links on within the forum to download one for free.  Other than that, check Ebay, and the dealer.  They are pretty pricey, but well worth it in the long run.  I bought mine off a buddy for $70, was money well spent IMO

[jimbo74]

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1985/1985FSM.pdf

right click, save as



this is the fsm that will cover the 22re models

[Yota87Truck]

thanks, that will come in handy

[weirdtimes_7]

Kinda like squirels on crack

THAT was hella funny... awesome

military_stang

[Yota87Truck]

Hey does anybody have any suggestions on how I should unstab the motor from the trannie.  I just can't seem to get it out.  I have everything disconnected and I have the motor approx. 1.5-2" away from the trannie.  I know the splines aren't too much longer, but I can't seem to get it the rest of the way out.  Any suggestions?

[abnormaltoy]

Hey does anybody have any suggestions on how I should unstab the motor from the trannie.  I just can't seem to get it out.  I have everything disconnected and I have the motor approx. 1.5-2" away from the trannie.  I know the splines aren't too much longer, but I can't seem to get it the rest of the way out.  Any suggestions?

They are probably just leaning into each other and binding. Have someone jiggle the engine while you move the tranny.

[Yota87Truck]

I have it pretty straight.  I didn't have anybody else helping me with it on friday or sat. cause my dad doesn't know jack about engines and he wouldn't want to get his clothes dirty.  But tonight I am going to have a friend help me.  I was giving it hell, shaking it and pulling on it.  But it still didn't want to budge.

[kneedownnate]

Stupid question, but are you totally sure you have all the bolts out?  Otherwise at is right, they're leaning on each other and will not want to seperate.  Try placing a jack under the front of the tranny and give the engine another yank. 

[Yota87Truck]

Still nothing.  I have a jack under the trannie and I have tried pulling and prying the engine off the trannie in every position possible.  I did notice that my bearings are so loose that it allows my crank to move 1/4"  Has anybody else had their bearings this bad?  And had the same problem that I am with getting my trannie off?  I think that the tip of the trannie is smashed and it is flared out making it hard to get out.

[83yota]

if you paln on changing the clutch push the pedal to the floor and have someone else pull and wiggle. that is what i ended up doing.

[Oddmar]

There's a bolt hiding behind the shift fork, going through the tranny bellhousing and threading into the engine block. It's easy to overlook...use a 17mm short socket and wobble to get it out, as the shift fork is in the way.

Other than that you just have to have the engine and the tranny level with each other to let them slip apart. 

Wait till you have all the machine work done on the block and head to order the engnbldr kit, so you know if you need oversize pistons, rings, bearings, etc. When ordering the kit, you need to know wether you have an early or late block, as the 85-newer ones are approx 1/4" shorter, requiring a different timing chain. If they deck the block or head much you'll need a shim headgasket, as well as the stock headgasket to give your valves the proper spacing off the pistons.

Put engine pre-lube on the rod and main bearings, and on the cam...the bearings fit into the block journals DRY, just put pre-lube on the bearing/ crank surface. Be veeery careful when tightening the cam retaining caps, as they crack easily. If the front main seal has worn a groove into the main pulley, get a Speedy-Sleeve and press it on to give you a new seal surface, or it'll leak.

When installing the motor, know there are two locating pins that align the block to the tranny...if your using a different block, sometimes you'll have two pins trying to occupy the same hole, making it impossible to put the engine back in. The dust cover on the back of the engine block is what aligns and shims the starter...don't leave it off or cut on it. The two M10 bolts holding it on have thinner heads than usual, to clear the back of the flywheel. It's a good idea to put all your bolts into zip-lock sandwich bags and label the bags with a marker, so you know what bolts go where. Toyota used alot of different-length bolts. For instance, if one of the bolts in the timing cover is too long, it'll keep the timing-chain tensioner from moving, resulting in a loose chain. For the timing cover and intake i draw a picture of the part on cardboard and poke the bolts through in the right places as i tear the motor down. Helps me not to mess up on reassembly. I tie those little string-tags on every connector /plug socket and vacume line as i unplug the injectors and sensors, so i know what goes where on reassembly.

Hope these little tips help you. Feel free to ask if you get stuck. 

[Yota87Truck]

if you paln on changing the clutch push the pedal to the floor and have someone else pull and wiggle. that is what i ended up doing.

Tired it...but my slave cylinder went out, it has been going out for a while.  But it completly blew when I tried to do this.  It started gushing fluid everywhere.

[Yota87Truck]

There's a bolt hiding behind the shift fork, going through the tranny bellhousing and threading into the engine block. It's easy to overlook...use a 17mm short socket and wobble to get it out, as the shift fork is in the way.

Other than that you just have to have the engine and the tranny level with each other to let them slip apart. 

Thanks, I will try that

[Yota87Truck]

Well I ended up pulling hte engine with the trannie.  At least it is out now.  But I still can't get the trannie off the dang engine.  I even lifted the trannie end up w/ the cherry picker and tried using the weight of the engine to get them disconnected.  We even got a pry bar in there while it was hanging there.  Nothing worked.

[BLACKDOG]

For the timing cover and intake i draw a picture of the part on cardboard and poke the bolts through in the right places as i tear the motor down. Helps me not to mess up on reassembly.
Hope these little tips help you. Feel free to ask if you get stuck. 

  that is a great Idea!  I never thought about doing that, I usually just stick with the ziplock bags. 

I've also found that a whiteout pen or a silver sharpie helps with vacuum lines.  Write a number directly on the line, and the corresponding # near the port on the engine/carb/ whatever

[Yota87Truck]

Everything is already disconnected.  I have my intake and exhaust and cooling system all off of my engine.  All it is right now is the long block and trannie.