Her Name is Frank

[pumkin toy]

that frontier is badass!  I see the supercharger sticking up, is that the v6 engine?

[Twisted Minis]

with a drop spindle and balljoint flip, what shock would i look for? do i have to get measurements or is there another OEM shock for another vehicle i can look up? Yeah KYB is really good and Bilsteins are top notch.

I would still advise against flipping the lower ball joints. You would be better off putting a step in the control arm. Look up the DJM drop arms, they are pretty easy to replicate with a stock control arm.

Anyways, I think Nissan Hardbody shocks are a good length for a stock replacement shock, but don't quote me on that. I know Nitro makes a drop shock that is shorter, and Bilstein makes a shorter sport shock for them.

However I prefer to raise the stock shock tower, because a shorter shock limits travel, specifically droop. Droop is one of the most important aspects of good ride quality.

That or run coil overs. I have a simple weld on kit for that, I can show you a picture of. It will work with most cheap eBay type coil overs with a standard bushing mount on top, but was designed around Bilstein and QA1.

[Twisted Minis]

that frontier is badass!  I see the supercharger sticking up, is that the v6 engine?

Yes, it is a V6.

I'm not sure I posted all of the pictures of it on here? I did a Supra based IRS, fuel cell, and a nice exhaust system on it last year.

[THK Matt]

I would still advise against flipping the lower ball joints. You would be better off putting a step in the control arm. Look up the DJM drop arms, they are pretty easy to replicate with a stock control arm.

Anyways, I think Nissan Hardbody shocks are a good length for a stock replacement shock, but don't quote me on that. I know Nitro makes a drop shock that is shorter, and Bilstein makes a shorter sport shock for them.

However I prefer to raise the stock shock tower, because a shorter shock limits travel, specifically droop. Droop is one of the most important aspects of good ride quality.

That or run coil overs. I have a simple weld on kit for that, I can show you a picture of. It will work with most cheap eBay type coil overs with a standard bushing mount on top, but was designed around Bilstein and QA1.

Id love to see what your kit looks like. coilovers would be ideal.
Just want to get all the knowledge i can so when i start this, it doesnt take forever.

and i was able to find the DJM drop arms, thats a much better way to achieve the 5in of drop when combined with a drop spindle and looks a lot more safe then the idea of a flipped ball joint.

[THK Matt]

Yes, it is a V6.

I'm not sure I posted all of the pictures of it on here? I did a Supra based IRS, fuel cell, and a nice exhaust system on it last year.

and Id love to see how you did the Supra IRS, not finding a detailed "how-to" on how thats executed on a mini truck.

[Twisted Minis]

I don't imagine you would find any how to on doing it, it isn't exactly basic.

Here are some quick pictures of what I did. There is a ton of detail and time in this, but I don't have time to dig through all my pictures right now.

[Nimyad]

That's insane!

So I have a question about Vw stuff. 1991 jetta on coilovers, I really want to flip my tie rods because they're angled up from the steering rack to the knuckles and if I flipped them they'd be just below level and I could drop it more and have them level. I've searched and everything says your need an aftermarket knuckle (whatever) to keep the right geometry. Is this true, or could I just them machined to accept the tie rod on the bottom?

[THK Matt]

Wow dude, thats insane.

[Twisted Minis]

That's insane!

So I have a question about Vw stuff. 1991 jetta on coilovers, I really want to flip my tie rods because they're angled up from the steering rack to the knuckles and if I flipped them they'd be just below level and I could drop it more and have them level. I've searched and everything says your need an aftermarket knuckle (whatever) to keep the right geometry. Is this true, or could I just them machined to accept the tie rod on the bottom?

You can machine it to put the tie rod on the bottom, usually needs an insert welded in place.

You need to keep in mind the tie rod angle in relation to the control arm angle or you could end up with pretty bad bump steer. I remember when I had mine I found a site that made some more sophisticated lowering parts that i wanted to copy, that deal with bump steer in the right way.

[Nimyad]

You can machine it to put the tie rod on the bottom, usually needs an insert welded in place.

You need to keep in mind the tie rod angle in relation to the control arm angle or you could end up with pretty bad bump steer. I remember when I had mine I found a site that made some more sophisticated lowering parts that i wanted to copy, that deal with bump steer in the right way.

Alright, so probably don't want to mess with it without changing more than just the tie rod placement.

[Twisted Minis]

Ya, I think the kit moved the spindle up (or control arm down depending on how you look at it), to keep the angles the same between the arm and tie rod, but relieve some of the extreme angle.


Also, anyone interested in some brand new Bilstein coilovers? Haven't had any luck selling the shop truck, so might need to sell these:



Full set of four, 10-13" and 11-15" travel dual eye, 175 and 300 lb springs, polished aluminum with rubber bushings and all black anodized hardware. Brand new, just opened for pictures

[Twisted Minis]

Would also trade them (or the truck) toward a generator, enclosed trailer, or portable welder powersource.

[THK Matt]

any pictures of your coilover brackets for the toyota minis?

[Twisted Minis]

I didn't have any pictures so I welded one together just now. I will weld the other one together so they are finished. They are set up for a very low ride height with the coil over dimensions set above. Like 3" ride height. Could be adjusted with a taller lower bracket, or taller shock.

[BigMike]

Has anyone every told you, you do some amazing work

[THK Matt]

I didn't have any pictures so I welded one together just now. I will weld the other one together so they are finished. They are set up for a very low ride height with the coil over dimensions set above. Like 3" ride height. Could be adjusted with a taller lower bracket, or taller shock.

so do that mount incorporate UCA mounts as well?
those look sweet

[Twisted Minis]

Yes it incorporates a mount for a control arm that I make. Can't make coil overs work with the stock control arm, not enough room inside the arm. And to give the coil over plenty of room, I prefer to removed the entire upper arm mount flush with the frame. Here is a look at it installed:

Has anyone every told you, you do some amazing work

Not that I can remember.

[THK Matt]

oh that is awesome, dude soon as i make it to this stage. expect an order from me

[Twisted Minis]

Got some updated pictures from the Volkswagon Double Cab owner. I have made a lot of stuff for him since ti last left the shop from his designs without really knowing what all of it was. He makes my job pretty easy. And its cool to finally see some of the pieces in place.

[Twisted Minis]

Any of you guys in Corona? May be down there next weekend if these are not all sold...

[BUDDERS]

I'm not in Corona, but about a half hour South.  I drive through there a few times a week for work though.

[Steve97TJ]

My want/wish list in the very near future is to pick up an old SA-200 to mess around with. Also been obsessing over building a tacoma mini truck for a daily as well.


You do great work man. I rarely ever get on marlincrawler much anymore but the only times i ever do its to check out this build, and it's not even a 4wd build.

Is your shop still called twisted minis? You have a facebook page or website?

[Twisted Minis]

Ya the shop is called Twisted Minis. No more website, let it run out. Facebook is here:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Twisted-Minis/124465530960383

My personal page probably gets more random updates, but is not a professional look.

I have been looking for an SA200 as well, the diesel is more appealing but hard to find. There is a red face short hood in town that is trashed and they want $2800. Just saw one in Vacaville that runs, but the guy has no idea on hours or anything, $3600 or trade for a dirt bike/seadoo.

The one in Corona, the guy flaked on Friday as I was supposed to leave. Said he found someone else to pay more, even though we had an agreement.

So I found another SA250 in South Oregon, was asking $1000 because it was running but had no idea on hours. Little oil leak, a beat up trailer and some old leads. I told the guy I would take it. I got near Redding and he called and said he needed to have $2500 for it now, so I turned around and went home.

In other news, I am selling my Hypertherm plasma cutter. Not much use on it.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=93947.msg1051722#new

[topar]

You know your builds make me think about going back to lowriders.  Almost bought a 2005 Colorado with a 3" drop the other day.  Guy wants $5000 for it but I am spending cash on my Dodge right now.

[Twisted Minis]

I have a friend selling custom Colorado drop spindles.

[Twisted Minis]

This is kind of off topic for most of you guys, but anyways...


Liquidating stuff at the shop! Taking offers on everything.

Grant Kustoms 79-83 Toyota bedsides, $500.

Grant Kustoms D50/Mighty Max skin, cowl and pillars, $400.

Scratch built front suspension clip, needs finishing, 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, rack and pinion, make an offer.

Scratch built IRS knuckles, set up for 12.1" Wilwood brakes, 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, uniball lower with rod end upper and 4130 clamp bungs, $1000 with brakes.

Alumapro 12" sub, $100 with cheapo box, $140 with tuned rectangular box.

1937 Dodge heater in working condition, $100.

Summit brand heater box with controls, never used, $100.

1950 Ford Dash, good shape $150.

Toyota sheet metal upper control arms, with ball joints, cross shafts and bushings, already assembled, $400.

Toyota Automatic transmission with rebuild kit and standalone computer, has 22RE bell housing, and brand new NOS torque converter, $1000.

Toyota shock brackets for bagged trucks and stock shocks, $50.

Toyota power steering set up with steering box and two pumps, no reservoir, $200.

Wilwood 12.1" rotors, $25 each, not slotted, brand new.

Wilwood calipers, $100 each, brand new.

Wilwood multi pattern rotor hats, $50 each.

Flaming River Chrome Mustang II rack and pinion, manual, $200.

Brand new ViAir 400C Chrome Dual pack, $250.

Brand new Contitech 2500 two ply bags, $50 each.

Brand new Contitech 2600 four ply bags, $100 each.

Will ship some items, and can provide pictures of anything you may be interested in.

[Twisted Minis]

Anyone near me selling 33s? Got a Cherokee, need to lift it and put new tires on it, budget minded. I found some front lift springs, need to figure out the rear maybe find some extra leaf springs and build a pack myself. Going to scour the junkyards if I can find the time.

[Twisted Minis]

Found 33s, need wheels and rear leafs and I think I can cobble the rest together.

[THK Matt]

very nice!!

[Twisted Minis]

Here is a recent project. I am putting Porsche 944 rear suspension and transaxle into a 1962 Ford Ranchero with a Lincoln aluminum V6. It's been a heck of a lot of work so far, but is turning out pretty well. I need to get pictures of the front adapter plate so that this all makes a bit more sense. Hopefully the torque tube will be finished tomorrow, I am waiting on some machining right now.







These last two pictures need a little explanation. The majority of the torque tube has been built with flanges on the end, as one section will be removable to get the shaft extension out so that the entire rear suspension, transaxle, exhaust and fuel tank do not need to be removed to change the clutch. It also had to be lengthened to fit the Ranchero, so this made it easy. I have been able to center everything so far either on the lathe, or with press fit delrin pucks in several places. However in the center, where I am mating a portion of 944 torque tube, and a section of 968 torque tube that houses a shifter, the tube sizes are different. So I have machined a press fit adapter that the drive shaft can fit through, that will weld in place between the tubes to keep them centered while the rest of it is mocked up.