Author Topic: Loki's 88' Build-Up 56k Beware Now on ALL 4's (Read 25841 times)

Loki · « **Reply #30 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 06:46:26 AM »

Dov'd - if i go beadlocks, i'll buy a set or get some better rims to do the DIY setup on...i believe most beadlock rims are around 3.5" of backspacing

Kurlee - Thanks, and it's not too far from san jose, but not quite...it's just the california track home special. i'm moving in the next month - month and a half. I am actually taking lunch today to go house hunting.

Volcom · « **Reply #31 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 08:16:29 AM »

I worked my cleaning my knuckles last night. Mine as nasty like yours. I'm soaking them in Castrol degresser and scrapping all the crap off with a putty knife.

Loki · « **Reply #32 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 09:26:26 AM »

i would get a couple of cans of break cleaner. degreaser might help, but that buddy knife and break cleaner are going to expedite the process faster

the puddy knife and maybe a couple of smaller sized punches to get in the little knooks and crannies is a good idea. Mine was caked on about 3/16" thick. I scraped about half of it off and realized i was going to have to get my

into it.

good luck. if you still have axle grease inside, break cleaner isn't going to just spray it out, so don't waste your time. take a shop rag and get in there and scrape it out, then break clean, then scrape it out again. I'd say without soaking the parts, it took me a good hour and a half from start to finish to get them both clean. good luck

Hottrod81 · « **Reply #33 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 09:43:15 AM »

The only thing I could see you might have the problem with is the 15X10 rim. If you plan on playing on the rock, it won't be long before they become damages. The tires just aren't wide enough.

Oddmar · « **Reply #34 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 10:17:54 AM »

I'm gonna put Staun internal pneumatic beadlocks in my rims. They lock both the inner and outer bead to the rim, unlike standard weld-on beadlock rings, and they act as run-flat tubes, keeping the rim off the ground and sidewall a little if there's 0 psi. One guy's tire went flat on the way home from a run, he was driving at 50-60 on the highway...steering felt funny but he kept on going till his friend pulled him over. The Staun was ok but the tire was screwed. If you wanna change rims the Staun's come out and make your new rims beadlocks...how cool is that.

dov'd85 · « **Reply #35 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 10:40:15 AM »

let me know how those work out... i have read/heard mixxed things about them...

Quote from: Oddmar on Feb 09, 2007, 10:17:54 AM

I'm gonna put Staun internal pneumatic beadlocks in my rims. They lock both the inner and outer bead to the rim, unlike standard weld-on beadlock rings, and they act as run-flat tubes, keeping the rim off the ground and sidewall a little if there's 0 psi. One guy's tire went flat on the way home from a run, he was driving at 50-60 on the highway...steering felt funny but he kept on going till his friend pulled him over. The Staun was ok but the tire was screwed. If you wanna change rims the Staun's come out and make your new rims beadlocks...how cool is that.

you can make yours work for DIY bead locks you just have to make sure you don't have reversed centered rims. and if you do have reversed center rims then if they drop center is les then 13in around 12 7/8 maybe alittle less than they will work...

Loki · « **Reply #36 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 11:00:56 AM »

well...i'm not going to be doing anything extreme as of right now, but in the future, i'm sure i will. i don't know if these will run at 8psi on this rims. especially due to the rim size. I do plan on running with a portable compressor, and fullsize spare. the problem i see is that beadlocks are illegal for street driving in cali if i'm not mistaken...i just don't want to get tickets for rims. i'll take a look at the Staun internal locks.

Loki · « **Reply #37 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 11:11:24 AM »

by the way...who sells them and how much? do you have any links. i found Staun Products website, but no prices or anything like that

Oddmar · « **Reply #38 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 11:24:15 AM »

It was a little difficult for me too, but here's a link... http://www.staunproducts.com/staunusa.php?vendor_country=USA&vendor_state=CA

Vendors are down at the bottom.

4 Wheel Parts doesn't have them listed on their website, but when i called 877-474-4821 (Chula Vista?), they said they have lots in stock.

Loki · « **Reply #39 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 02:53:49 PM »

Oddmar...i'll check them out. i saw the vendor site earlier, but like you said...i'll probably have to call for pricing. did you happen to get a price on these...

side not i got my sky widening kit in the mail today, so after i go check out the house, i'll get in some

and truck work done. I'll post pics as progress is made.

Here's the kit..hub goes next

Loki · « **Reply #40 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 07:57:43 AM »

well...last night kind of sucked. Lagen started hard welding in the rear hangars and i started working on the front diff. I was pulling the stock studs out and put in a a diff stud kit, and let me tell you. that sucked ass.

First you will need more than just a 5mm allen wrench to do the job no matter what anyone tells you unless you have a brand new axle.

We had to stop and tap out the stud holes after removing all the studs then install the new studs.

Since i don't have my drop-in 3rds yet (5.29) i'm using some 5.71 3rds. It took us about 45 minutes to get it to drop in. These studs are way too long for 5.71's i wish i had that carbide bit last night. I would have made the ring gear hole in the axle wider. Anyhow, i'm going to get the other 3rd now and then i'll be stabbing these longs and doing the knuckle rebuild kit.

Wish me luck...i think there's going to be far more cussing involved today.

CRS · « **Reply #41 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 09:06:13 AM »

37 MTR's are the way to go. Good choice if i may say so . I have a set on 15x 8 rims same b.s as yours and i run them around 8 - 10 psi all day and never have a problem. These trucks just are not heavy enough. My only concern with a 15x10 is that if you ever decide to run a weld on beadlock then your wheel will be to big for those tires. A weld on beadlock kit will add obut an inch to an inch and a half to the over all width of the rim. I sent my injectors to RC eng great find Thanks.

Cody @ 1/4 TiLT FabROCKation

Oddmar · « **Reply #42 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 11:34:54 AM »

You've got Toyota front and rear differential carriers set up with 5:71 ring & pinions?

Loki · « **Reply #43 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 12:14:19 PM »

CRS...i'll keep that in mind if i got beadlocks...more than likely i'll convert some steelies that i already have laying around with 3.75" backspacing if i'm running DIY's and yeah...RCeng is the ish.

oddman...you sir are correct. i'm about to go stab my rear and do the diff stud kit right now.

DTB · « **Reply #44 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 01:13:15 PM »

Why did you go with 5.71's?? just curious

Loki · « **Reply #45 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 01:39:35 PM »

I'm just running them til i can afford the 5.29's...one was in the rear originally, but i can't push 37's with 4.10's so i'm just running these until i get my gears setup with detroits and cryoe'd 5.29's

DTB · « **Reply #46 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 01:46:25 PM »

Quote from: Loki on Feb 10, 2007, 01:39:35 PM

I'm just running them til i can afford the 5.29's...one was in the rear originally, but i can't push 37's with 4.10's so i'm just running these until i get my gears setup with detroits and cryoe'd 5.29's

5.71s are not recommended for toyotas because of the small pinion size just FYI.....sounds like its coming along pretty good!!

Loki · « **Reply #47 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 11:58:30 PM »

i know all about the 5.71 spoof hooplah, and i'm not planning on running them hard or for long...just a temp thing so i can drive the truck. Today was murder...i finally got the whole front end hung up, but i'm missing a few bolts/washers, so i have to go get some hardware. i'm tired as hell and feel beat down. i'm going to bed.

I'll post some pictures up tomorrow.

Loki · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 11, 2007, 11:28:37 AM »

Ok...here it goes. Friday night i set out on a journey to complete this thing and get it on it's own power/feet by sunday morning. With about 4500 bucks in parts in my garage and dining room, i figured it would be all the time i needed. Well, that proved not to be the case.

Friday the diff stud kit and the gear install in the front was a

Longer/Bigger studs, Needing to tap the diff holes and a huge ring gear on the 5.71 took about 2.5 hours from start to finish. not to mention we didn't get started until around 7 or 8 at night. but after some cussing, hamering,

and more cussing....it went in.

Saturday morning i took off to get a donor set of 5.71's for the rear to match the front. Swapped some stock 4.10's out of my buddy's garage queen and then headed back to my place to build my truck.

if you're trying to pull a gear set out of an axle...remember to take off all the bolts that hold the 3rd in place...

yeah...i'm an idiot.

Got back to my house and started numerous jobs. laying out the knuckle rebuild kit w/bearings. began building the hubs and packing the bearings. After realizing that my other AISIN hub was at a buddy's and snapping a Grade 8 bolt head off in one of the hub assemblies, we took off to go get some more supplies. Got my hub from my buddy's house and used his drill press to retract the snapped bolt. Took about an hour. Got back to the house and i stabbed the longs while lagen continued on the hubs. Started building the knuckles and getting it all set up. I heard a lot of cussing from Lagen because one of my hubs locks came apart and it was a PITA to get back together. I was doing my fair share of cussing and throwing stuff. mostly due to my messy garage. (I Can't stand clutter)

Either way, we didn't get near as much accomplished as we thought we were going to, but we did get the guts in the axle. New bobby long birfs/inners/hub gears, Sky widening kit and hubs built...all i have to now is give her some rubbers up front and put the engine back together. I Might have to hold off until wednesday. I'm cleaning my messy ass garage today.

Well I know most people only know how to read pictures, so here are a few.

The front measures 58.5" between the hub mounting surfaces.
More to come

mickeyfinn · « **Reply #49 on:** Feb 11, 2007, 12:41:44 PM »

looks good. is that welder a 150

Loki · « **Reply #50 on:** Feb 11, 2007, 01:09:58 PM »

Snap-On Muscle-Mig 140amp...runs off of regular household power...of course you might want to run a bigger breaker or you're going to cook it

DTB · « **Reply #51 on:** Feb 11, 2007, 01:52:49 PM »

haha its never quite as easy as u think its gonna be.......lol

u gonna toss some paint on those knuckles?

Loki · « **Reply #52 on:** Feb 11, 2007, 02:27:44 PM »

trial and error if you ask me. it just makes you more knowledgable. I'll probably hit the knuckles with some enamel or something. I'm not all that worried at this point. I might be upgrading knuckles anyhow.

Volcom · « **Reply #53 on:** Feb 12, 2007, 07:13:29 AM »

Nice front axle setup!

papa mike · « **Reply #54 on:** Feb 12, 2007, 07:16:43 AM »

i like my snapon welder it burns in real good ,,and also pull the pins and you have another 20 feet of moving the welder

Loki · « **Reply #55 on:** Feb 12, 2007, 09:02:40 AM »

Thanks Volcom...i just can't wait to beef up the rear. i need to make some trusses or something for at least the bottom. i have some diff armor for it, but a truss setup is ideal...i might just go pick up some more 2x3 and make my own trusses for it.

that's not my welder...i wish it was, but right now i can't afford a 2500 dollar Muscle Mig like that. it's my buddy lagen's welder. places where you would think you're going to need a double pass, this little guy will surprise you everytime. I still haven't done any sheet metal welding yet, but i'll see how that goes. if you think a 20amp breaker is sufficient though...think again...that mig will pop a 20amp like crazy, so beef up your breaker.

I might come home at lunch and put the throttle body back on, replace the fuel filter, and maybe even slap in the gas tank. If i get that taken care of, i'll start it up and see how she goes. can't wait to get this thing on the road for a test drive.

Stay tuned for more updates

dov'd85 · « **Reply #56 on:** Feb 12, 2007, 10:02:43 AM »

what is that on the back of the truss? just a megnetic tray. i thought at first they were from some dimple dies but i guess not?

i like the build.... are thosev6 rotors?

Loki · « **Reply #57 on:** Feb 12, 2007, 11:00:24 AM »

i have 2 magnetic trays stuck there...i noticed them there last night. and yes those are v6 rotors. it's a nice upgrade. i picked up new pads and shoes for the truck friday night as well. i'll be changing those out tonight if i get a chance.

mickeyfinn · « **Reply #58 on:** Feb 12, 2007, 05:10:50 PM »

Quote from: Loki on Feb 11, 2007, 01:09:58 PM

Snap-On Muscle-Mig 140amp...runs off of regular household power...of course you might want to run a bigger breaker or you're going to cook it

that is what i thought. i have the 250 with the aluminum spool gun and tig attachment. the spool gun takes some getting used to but it works pretty well

Loki · « **Reply #59 on:** Feb 12, 2007, 09:21:44 PM »

yeah i can tig with this too...i haven't tried yet, but i like the ease of going from mig to DC neg in basically 10 seconds time. nothing to it. I'm putting my engine back together and i'm trying to figure out if the throttle cable goes over or under on the guide to the throttle body. ...i put it on under and there's line tension, but i'm not sure. I didn't take it off. my buddy did as i was removing the plenum and fuel rail...

**EDIT** i just found some pictures i took before i took the TB off...looks like I was right...under it is

ok...back to the engine work

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