I'm holding a crane cam n pacesetter header, go on install?? good or bad

Started by Stinky, December 28, 2006, 02:04:55 PM

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Stinky

i just got a crane cam n pacsetter header for my 87 22re....p/u with 4.88s n 36 TSL's, bias ply baby....

its in my hand i got the cam for $98 and the header for $160 through work(NAPA)....i drive 250 miles 4 times a month, from school-->home n back.....lots of hills and im sick of shifting constantly.....any special info i might need to kno????



any help is good...thanks guys......
                                                                           -STINKY
87 p/u SAS, 22RE, built, then cut up and scrapped

94 ex cab P/U, SR5, fully loaded, 3.4 swap, r150f, a/c, bumpers, 33s, glass fenders...sold

00 Stoopid Duty 250, ex cab, lariat, v-10,000

94 reg cab, 22re, duals, 38.5 boggers, sas, 4 link, tube bed, build underway... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=967836

88 Samurai, soa, buick 3.8, th350, zuki case, 1/4 done... anyone wanna buy it??

Stinky

headers on, it fits pretty nice...a lil "adjusting" of the egr plate, courtesy of my 4 1/2" grinder...and had to piss with the welds on the top of the flange, it touches the lower bellhousing bolt, but it needs the center hole in the flange plug welded, since the stock manifold was solid n the header has a hole....so im pullin it off after i get the cam in on sunday n "persuading" the collector to move away from my bellhousing n shootin some boogers in the hole.....sounds like a ricer  haha and i love it
87 p/u SAS, 22RE, built, then cut up and scrapped

94 ex cab P/U, SR5, fully loaded, 3.4 swap, r150f, a/c, bumpers, 33s, glass fenders...sold

00 Stoopid Duty 250, ex cab, lariat, v-10,000

94 reg cab, 22re, duals, 38.5 boggers, sas, 4 link, tube bed, build underway... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=967836

88 Samurai, soa, buick 3.8, th350, zuki case, 1/4 done... anyone wanna buy it??

kneedownnate

Quote from: Stinky on December 28, 2006, 02:04:55 PM
i just got a pacsetter header for my 87 22re....

I'm sorry....very very sorry :ack:

Not to rain on your parade, but they're about the worst headers you can get.  No engineering or tuning, just a thin flange and some random tubes.  I hope it works for you, just wouldn't recommend buying one.
RIP KYOTA

You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable.

Give a man venison, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt Blacktail, he'll be frustrated for life!

6.72:1

Quote from: kneedownnate on December 30, 2006, 11:44:09 PM
I'm sorry....very very sorry :ack:

Not to rain on your parade, but they're about the worst headers you can get.  No engineering or tuning, just a thin flange and some random tubes.  I hope it works for you, just wouldn't recommend buying one.

I was waiting for this.

This has been my experience as well, but it happens every now and then....
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reklund5

you know you're supposed to remove the head to install that cam, right?

Ryan
'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

Stinky

Quote from: kneedownnate on December 30, 2006, 11:44:09 PM
I'm sorry....very very sorry :ack:

Not to rain on your parade, but they're about the worst headers you can get.  No engineering or tuning, just a thin flange and some random tubes.  I hope it works for you, just wouldn't recommend buying one.

umm...  :bull crap:  :welcome: do ure homework before speaking...look at every other header out there n tell me how thick their flanges are...their 3/8" right, YES THEY ARE, so is it...its a header, im not buildin a dragster, ya its not a tri-y, it flows better than my manifold n the stupid ass 2 piece manifold studs were stretched n it leaked n couldnt keep it tight....it was $160 and im not spendin $300-400+ for a header for a damn 4 banger, lets get real ppl...you get wat, another 5-8ft-lbs...not worth the cash to me....it fits fine now.... :thumbs:


Quote from: reklund5 on December 31, 2006, 01:37:45 PM
you know you're supposed to remove the head to install that cam, right?

Ryan

:ha_ha: :laugh:  :headscratch: umm, no...the head bolts hold the cradle(rocker assembly)down...my fathers been a mechanic for 50 years, hes done tons of 22's...n you dont remve the head...cuz once u break the head gasket seal, its :pokinit:...just gotta be carefull with it


and by the way, both really opened the truck up, ALOT...plus it sounds alot better...kind of a mix of a civic/subaru...but i like it...it was x-mas $$ well spent
87 p/u SAS, 22RE, built, then cut up and scrapped

94 ex cab P/U, SR5, fully loaded, 3.4 swap, r150f, a/c, bumpers, 33s, glass fenders...sold

00 Stoopid Duty 250, ex cab, lariat, v-10,000

94 reg cab, 22re, duals, 38.5 boggers, sas, 4 link, tube bed, build underway... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=967836

88 Samurai, soa, buick 3.8, th350, zuki case, 1/4 done... anyone wanna buy it??

blackdiamond

I have a friend that recently had his 22RE rebuilt and a Pacesetter was installed.  So far he is very happy.

I expect this thread to get entertaining.  :pokinit:
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

kneedownnate

Quote from: blackdiamond on January 01, 2007, 09:19:11 PM
I expect this thread to get entertaining.  :pokinit:

I'm guessing it could be quite entertaining if ryan happens to pop back in agian, but I don't think he'll waste his breath given the content  :rofl2:

I guess I'm wrong, pacesetter is quite possibly the most well engineered product I've ever seen before!  3/8" flange?  I've never seen that on a pacesetter before, maybe they finally got their :pokinit: together....I mean, yea they've always been great!  Did you get the shorty? 

Quote from: Stinky on January 01, 2007, 08:58:17 PM
umm...  :bull crap:  :welcome: do ure homework before speaking...look at every other header out there n tell me how thick their flanges are...their 3/8" right, YES THEY ARE

Oh, must have been mistaken by the 1/2" flange on my nwor header.  Or does that fall under the category of "every other header out there"? 

Don't start a thread asking for input/opinions if you're not ready to hear them sparky :thumbs:
RIP KYOTA

You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable.

Give a man venison, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt Blacktail, he'll be frustrated for life!

Stinky

haha its a long tube design...not sayin its the best header out there...but def the best bang for ure buck...
87 p/u SAS, 22RE, built, then cut up and scrapped

94 ex cab P/U, SR5, fully loaded, 3.4 swap, r150f, a/c, bumpers, 33s, glass fenders...sold

00 Stoopid Duty 250, ex cab, lariat, v-10,000

94 reg cab, 22re, duals, 38.5 boggers, sas, 4 link, tube bed, build underway... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=967836

88 Samurai, soa, buick 3.8, th350, zuki case, 1/4 done... anyone wanna buy it??

te51levin

The biggest typical reported problem with Pacesetter products is the lack of durability.  They have a reputation for not lasting more than a year or two.

Really, there are all sorts of headers but until they get dyno tested against each other AND the stock manifold, there's not much real information available to evaluate them with.  It would be very interesting to get a bunch of headers together, configure the exhaust system to accomodate them all (this would require building an adapter/reducer for each header) and test them all on the same truck, on the same dyno, on the same day, while monitoring the air/fuel ratio to make sure they get what they need to perform at their best.  Until that happens...well, let's just say I reserve the right to remain skeptical of all butt-dyno reports.


Stinky

on a 100hp truck, im not too worried about 2-4hp...if hp is that important to ya, then quit wheelin n build a damn racecar...the only reason i bought it was it was cheap, my manifold was :pokinit:, and no matter wat, it flows a HELL OF A LOT better than the stock manifold....its exhaust, its gonne get smashed off everything under the truck....im not dumpin a ton of $$ for it to get beat up....doesnt make sense to me...another $100-200 for 5 hp and MAYBE 10ft-lbs??....if ya really need a lot more power, look into a diff powerplant...the 22 was built for reliability, not hp's into the 4 digits....
87 p/u SAS, 22RE, built, then cut up and scrapped

94 ex cab P/U, SR5, fully loaded, 3.4 swap, r150f, a/c, bumpers, 33s, glass fenders...sold

00 Stoopid Duty 250, ex cab, lariat, v-10,000

94 reg cab, 22re, duals, 38.5 boggers, sas, 4 link, tube bed, build underway... http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=967836

88 Samurai, soa, buick 3.8, th350, zuki case, 1/4 done... anyone wanna buy it??

te51levin

I understand what you're saying.  I wouldn't waste any effort looking for maximum horsepower on an off road rig either, but header or manifold design has a tremendous influence on low and mid-range torque as well as horsepower.  Flow is definately not the only factor involved.

I also understand the budget concern.  It doesn't always make sense to buy "the best".  Every time I have to make a purchase, I try to evaluate every option from the cheapest get-me-by fix to the most expensive I can afford.  Sometimes the get-me-by makes the most sense, and sometimes not.

If your main goal was to replace the manifold, that has been accomplished.  What was wrong with the manifold besides the studs being stretched?  A handful of 90080-12007 studs and 90080-17187 nuts would theoretically take care of that.  Were there any cracks or warpage or other damage?