Author Topic: Switching from manual to electric fuel pump on 1st gen  (Read 19251 times)

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TRHS1980

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Switching from manual to electric fuel pump on 1st gen
« on: Jul 19, 2006, 02:42:27 PM »
Hey guys

I've run into a problem with my mechanical fuel pump on my 1980. I've installed a hybrid 22r and I had to change the thermostat housing since it interfered with my weber 32/36 carb (housing was blocking fuel inlet on carb). I put a later model housing on there which is at a different angle. Now no problems with carb, but thermostat housing is blocking fuel pump inlet/outlet. I'm thinking of just throwing a block off plate on the head and running an electric fuel pump. Any recommendations? Thinking Holley, but which one? Would I have to get a regulator or could I buy an adjustable fuel pump? Is there another way around this dilemma?

One other question just out of curiosity... does my truck have a fuel pump in the tank as well as on the head... or is the pump on the head the only one? I appreciate any input. Thanks!
2007 Tacoma 4x4 6-speed on 35's

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Oddmar

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1980 had the 2.2L 20R motor, but you said yours was replaced with a 2.4L 22R...

So, here we go...only a 22RE (fuel injected) motor would have had a fuel pump in the tank, your's is an '80 which means no EFI that year anyhow. The 20R motor has no place on the head for a mechanical fuel pump, they had an electric one.

So you wanna put on a block-off plate, make your own or steal one from a scrap EFI motor. If you had the AISIN carb you'd need to find a special low-pressure electric pump, cause the TOY carb takes 3-5 psi, and most cheap electric fuel pumps put out 5-9 psi, for carbs like weber and holley.

But you seem to have the Weber after all, so just plumb a cheap 5-9 psi electric fuel pump from Auto Zone or Advance into the fuel feed line, with a cheap stock (new) fuel filter just before it to keep dirty gas from killing the pump.

The stock mechanical pump has three lines attached to it. One goes from the pickup tube in the tank to the pump, one is a return line that carries excess fuel back to the fuel tank, and a short output line going to the carb. The mechanical pump is operated by a lever that sticks into the head and rides on a stamped sheet metal 'cam' that's attached to the front of your camshaft. This lever constantly pumps gas from the tank, all the time your engine is running...pumping faster or slower depending on engine speed. The pump has a fuel-pressure regulator inside it which tries to keep the carb supplied with an even 3-5 psi, by bleeding the excess fuel off and sending it back to the tank...that's the return line's purpose. Without the return line the diaphram in the pump would rupture, or you'd frack up the float valve in the carb. I know i'm feeding you so much information your ears'll be bleeding in the morning, but i like to give you more information than you need, rather than less. Just plug or tie off the return line and you're good to go. But you gotta figure out which line is which, cause the return line hooked up to an electric pump will just suck fumes off the top of the fuel tank.

Any cheap pump for a carbed motor will work fine. A fuel pressure regulator will probably not be needed. Make sure the ground wire for the electric pump is grounded well, and run the hot (red) wire to any circuit that goes live when you turn the key on. (When the engine is running, the pump should be running. Some seem to make a horrible moaning noise, but it does'nt seem to affect thier operation, it's just annoying.) One anti-theft idea is to run the pump off your auxilliary driving lights circuit. If you install driving lights on your front bumper, and flip the switch to turn them on just before or after starting your engine, fuel will flow. Anyone who doesnt know this will drive your stolen truck a couple blocks and the carb will run out of gas. (Unless it's night and they find the switch to turn the lights on.)

The best pump you can probably buy, (opening this thread up to endless debate) is a Carter. Just don't let the auto-parts moron talk you into getting an EFI pump, they put out about 100 psi to feed the injectors in an EFI motor, and you won't like that.

Feel free to ask me anything in the future, i'll try to give you my best awnser. E-mail addy is on my profile. '84-'88 Toyota pickups are the only type of vehicle i own, and i know alot about them, having rebuilt/ fabricated almost everything imaginable. In the case of transmissions and transfer cases however, in my humble opinion, Mr. Marlin will always be KING.
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TRHS1980 [OP]

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Hey man, thanks for all the info...

Couple of things. I replaced the block with a 22R but kept the 20R head (that's why I said hybrid 22R). I know that some of the 20R's had electric fuel pumps but I know for a fact that mine has a mechanical (hole in front passanger side of head) which is why it is interfering with my thermostat housing. I'm pretty sure that there is a pump in the tank as well as the one on the head since I know fuel pumps push the fuel better than pulling it and I don't think that fuel pump on the head would be able to suck fuel all the way from back in the tank... Anyhow, if I go with an electric pump I think 5-9 psi would be too high for the weber I've got (I think they recommend like 2.5-3psi). I have heard carter makes really good fuel pumps... I will definitely look into one of those if electric is the route I end up going. If I DO have a pump in the tank, is it going to cause problems going electric? I'd like to have this truck running one of these days. Any other advice is, as always, greatly appreciated. Thanks!
2007 Tacoma 4x4 6-speed on 35's

"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted."

Oddmar

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I've never seen a 20R head with the hole for a mechanical fuel pump, none of mine have the hole. Doesn't mean they don't exist, i just 'aint seen none.

When i tell you there's no pump in the tank, don't argue, just nod your head and agree with me. Every Toyota truck with a carb/ stock 22R motor has a mechanical pump mounted on the head drawing fuel all the way from the tank, no pump in the tank, trust me, i've cut the danged tanks in half, welded different tops on them, etc.
And none of the 20R motors had a fuel pump in the tank, either.

The only Toyota trucks with a pump INSIDE the tank are the ones with Fuel-injected motors, and it's a high-pressure pump.

The instructions that come with most aftermarket electric fuel pumps DO say that they'll work better mounted near the fuel tank instead of all the way up by the motor, that they'll be happier pushing the fuel than sucking it all that way, on this i agree with you.
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And after re-reading your last post, are you sure you have a 20R head?...i really have Never seen any with a hole for the mechanical pump...could you have a 22R head/ intake with a 20R valve cover?...I've seen that before, and seen 22RE valve covers on 22R motors too.

You know how someone will be flapping thier lips, completely full-of- :bull crap:, and since you know alot about that subject it's really difficult to keep quiet? I'm not comparing you to that kind of person, just saying I can't stand being one.......

So, just to be sure, i went outside and pulled a valve cover off a 20R head (without a hole for a fuel pump, by the way), and one off a 22R head (with the hole) sitting a few feet away, and put the 20R cover on the 22R head...it fit's fine. Now, i don't know if you have enough experience to tell the difference between a 20R head and a 22R...i always just look and see if they have the mechanical fuel pump hole. It could be that you have a 22R head/ intake with a 20R valve cover...i know how much that would suck...sorry.

I also took pictures with my phone of all this, and if i can figure out how to post them i'll do so.
« Last Edit: Jul 21, 2006, 07:03:01 PM by Oddmar »
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TRHS1980 [OP]

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Head is a 20R. When I tell you it is, don't argue, just nod your head and agree with me.  :yesnod:

But alas, all is fine with fuel pump. I put original thermostat housing back on intake manfold and managed to get the carb fuel inlet to clear.  :thumbs:

Still think I'll pick up a fuel pressure regulator, but aside from that, I should be good to go.

Thanks for you're advice and input!
2007 Tacoma 4x4 6-speed on 35's

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Vic stuff

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i did an electric pump inline on my 84, didnt do a block off plate, still have the mechanical in there, lol just plumbed and wired an elctric in line after the factory filter on the frame, works great!  BTW i bought my pump off ebay ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-BRAND-NEW-UNIVERSAL-12vol_W0QQitemZ330006730598QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33555QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem ) That's the one i bought.
84 4Runner - 37's, Locked F/R, 4:1 (single), Cab exo, new front bumper and some more tubage coming soon! Currently parked with a blown motor :(

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brainlessfool

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I have put an elect. pump on my 83, and there are some thinks to keep in mind when doing this that have not been talked about yet.

yup mount it in back, elct. pumps push better than "suck" and manual pumps suck better than "push".

most important is this, if you were to roll it and the motor stop and not get to the key to trun it off the pump will keep pumping fuel to the motor and it will run out the carb vent. :sheerterror:

not a good thing.

you need to put a switch on the oil presser port that will kill power to the pump if the motor stops and oil presser goes away.

I had a carter pump and a reg. on mine and liked it.
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BUBBA

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Everything has been covered but because I'm bored I'm gonna through my  :twocents: in.

1st off,Yes there where 20r's with mechanical pumps.Those heads not cast for mechanical pumps where also not cast for a p/s pump.I think most of the one's cast for pumps came in celica's.Every original truck motor I've seen doesn't have p/s or mechanical pump.

2nd, it you want to go electric,yes you can just leave your pump on the block,no need to take it off unless it's in the way.Advance Auto parts sells an electric pump rated at 2-3 psi.Perfect for off roading with no need for a regulator.And at 9 bucks,it's a good deal.Just mount it at the tank because it will burn it up if you mount at the engine.They are designed as pushers not pullers.Just mount a filter before it and call it good.

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TRHS1980 [OP]

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Thanks for all the good info guys! I had one more question on the subject. What fuel pressure regulators are you guys running with your webers and are the mounted by the tank, in the engine bay, etc.? I managed to get the mechanic
2007 Tacoma 4x4 6-speed on 35's

"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted."

TRHS1980 [OP]

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accidentally posted that last post before I was finished  :smack:

ANYWAY...

Thanks for all the good info guys! I had one more question on the subject. What fuel pressure regulators are you guys running with your Weber's and are the mounted by the tank, in the engine bay, etc.? I managed to get the mechanical fuel pump to work for me, but I would like to pick up a nice regulator.

Summit has this one... what do you guys think?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D804&N=4294880914+115&autoview=sku
2007 Tacoma 4x4 6-speed on 35's

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BUBBA

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any regulator should work fine,but be sure to mount it between the pump and carb.
87 4runner 350 with custom dent package. 
My budget beater

 
 
 
 
 

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