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learn to drive. i wheel a stupid flexy truck and id rather have that suspension over my old 3" lift springs
I modified my rears up front several times and the best setup I found was 6 leafs plus the little short overload spring from the bottom of an '81 rear pack and added spring clamps to keep the leafs from fanning out. This worked better but it was still axlewrapping and walking out from under the truck. Most of the time they worked great but there was a lot of times that I've had to pull a cable (mostly on steep hills) when I should have been able to drive up it and I believe it was because the front end just wasn't hooking up like it should. I live in the southeast and most of the trails we wheel are muddy limestones and steep ledges that offer almost no traction ,so anything you can do to get more power to the ground helps a lot. Maybe its not an issue out west on dry rocks. There are some guys that wheel with me that have bought 5" all-poos and 5" marlins and they are suffering from the same issues. But, there's a couple other guys running 3" all-poos and they seem to work great. They are not wrapping and walking out from under the truck like the 5". I dunno, I was just wondering if anyone else has noticed the same thing as us.dam good points i have rears up front with the front pack mixed in.kinda flat but on 33" locked front and rear it hooks up.good post bro.
I have yet to test my set up, but I am already running into problems. I have a 1980 Toyota reg cab long bed. I purchased a 5" Marlin lift with the 12" Bilstein 5150 with cooresponding shock tower hoops. So after moving the front hanger forward 1/2" and putting the front together I have a shackle angle at about 50 degrees give or take, Please tell me if that is a bad thing. The rear spring hanger is moved forward 6" eye to eye and the rear shackle hanger 2" rearward. I have a shackle angle of damn near 80 or more degrees. The truck is right at the factory wheel base but it is extremely stout in the rear by almost 2 inches. I also ran into a problem with the 12" shocks not having enough downward travel, about 1/2" past full extention of the shock which also has me up in the air, mentally. I have come to a conclusion to shorten the rear shackle to make the angle some what better and less tall, then add a little flat bar to the bottom front shock mount making the travel better.I think the specs I was given to build this beast could be changed a little. For a four inch lift this set up would be perfect, minus the rear shackle hangers 2" rearward placement, because the wheel base shock travel and shackle angle will work out perfect. For the 5" lift I would recommend 3/4 inch forward front hanger placement, the 14" shocks with the 12" or short travel shock hoops and move the rear shackle hanger back only one inch.
toyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Ironclad's point about the driver is right. you could have a well built rig but with the wrong driver in the seat it aint gonne go nowhere. it is all about choosing the right line and where you set your tires and how much throttle to use.
i love your sig your down to a half of a maverick
Me and the guys I wheel with run some of the toughest trails in the southeast and we have ran about every type of leaf spring setup possible. The rigs with shorter, lower lift springs consistantly performed much better in our area. The trails we run are generally slick rock ledges and creekbeds that offer very little traction and the lower COG rigs hook up much better on the slick rocks. The long travel springs tended to unload and axlewrap very badly, just because a spring has more flex doesn't mean that it's transfering more energy to your rig.
I agree with ya'll, as a driver you have to be comfortable with your setup, whatever that might be. I think the type of terrain you wheel has a lot to do with it also. The super long travel springs might be the ticket out west. I don't know, I've never been there. Me and the guys I wheel with run some of the toughest trails in the southeast and we have ran about every type of leaf spring setup possible. The rigs with shorter, lower lift springs consistantly performed much better in our area. The trails we run are generally slick rock ledges and creekbeds that offer very little traction and the lower COG rigs hook up much better on the slick rocks. The long travel springs tended to unload and axlewrap very badly, just because a spring has more flex doesn't mean that it's transfering more energy to your rig. I knew that I would get a lot of negative comments when I started this thread. I was just stating some of the issues with leaf springs that I have had and seen on the trail. It just seems to me that a lot of people get too caught up with trying to get every inch of articulation that they forget that your leaf springs are the only thing transfering forward motion from your tires to your rig. This seems to be a factor mainly on front springs because of weight transfer.Think about this: for your rig to move forward, the tires get traction, traction from the tires = forward energy, forward energy is transferred from the tires to the frame via your leaf spring. So your axle is pushing against the spring, the spring is pushing against the frame, your rig moves forward. Simple. Or is it? Think about HOW this force is being applied to the frame.With a lot of arch in your springs you are pushing against an arch and below the frame, this tends to make the springs "bow up" and makes the front tires run away from the truck. This is the reason you need so much slip on the front driveshaft. I have seen rigs that could max the suspension out on a ramp and the driveshaft would not come apart, but as soon as they started up a steep climb the front driveshaft would seperate because the front axle tried to run out from under the truck. The shackle angle also greatly affects this. With a lazy shackle angle there is much more axlewrap than a more vertical shackle angle. I'm not saying none of these springs work well, I've just noticed some issues that could be improved. Next time your on the trail with someone running Marlin, All-pro, trail gear, or rears up front, watch how the front springs behave when they are really hammering on it on a steep ledge. Pay close attention to the distance the shocks will extend and how the shackle angle will change as more torque is being put on the springs even when the axle is not articulating. Also watch how badly the leafs will fan out on the shackle end of the front springs just from getting on the gas.This is hard to explain unless you see it firsthand. Pay attention and you'll notice what I'm referring to.
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