Author Topic: Front Wheel Bearing? (Read 4369 times)

1Bad4Runner · « **on:** Jul 05, 2006, 07:01:58 PM »

I am running 37's and 1.5" wheel spacers on either side and my wheel bearings keep loosening up. Is there any reason for this? I tighten everything up good. Also, what is the torque specs on the jam nut?

Is there a such thing as a lock nut for the front spindle? Like a full floating D60 and D70 has for the rear wheel bearings?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 07:53:04 PM »

Quote from: 1Bad4Runner on Jul 05, 2006, 07:01:58 PM

I am running 37's and 1.5" wheel spacers on either side and my wheel bearings keep loosening up. Is there any reason for this? I tighten everything up good. Also, what is the torque specs on the jam nut?

Is there a such thing as a lock nut for the front spindle? Like a full floating D60 and D70 has for the rear wheel bearings?

it should have a locknut/jam nut with a star like washer between the two that you bend over to LOCK the nuts from moving, just like a dana 60-70 rear

also check your trunion bearings (under the steering arms)

Duffil · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:10:30 PM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Jul 05, 2006, 07:53:04 PM

it should have a locknut/jam nut with a star like washer between the two that you bend over to LOCK the nuts from moving, just like a dana 60-70 rear

also check your trunion bearings (under the steering arms)

I think he means the Dana nut with the nylon insert, Glen. No there is not. Just like Glen posted, there is an inner nut, a star washer and the jam nut.

1Bad4Runner · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 10:40:16 AM »

I know there is the jam nut and the washer that you bend over. My problem is even after having new washer things put in and everything bent and tightened down it still loosens itself after a couple of week of driving. What is the jam nut supposed to be tourqued to? Maybe I have it to loose.

All_Set · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 03:11:01 PM »

Do you preload the adjusting nut? (1st nut) you're suppost to tighten it pretty good (just tight enough so you can't spin the wheel with your hands or 43 ftlbs), then loosen it up and adjust to specs. Put the lock washer on it, bend a couple of tabs, then put the lock nut on. FSM calls for 33 ftlb for that lock nut (2nd nut)

Post back when ya figure it out.

Yota4life · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 06:11:10 PM »

The preload for the first nut is supposed to be very little, just snug. Any more and you are putting pressure on those needle bearings and they will not last too long. I have retorqued mine twice now and they have a little play in them again on both sides. I am also runnning 1.5" spacers and 2.5" backspaced wheels. With 36" tires....im sure thats just killing my outer wheel bearings. I need to run less backspacing maybe like 3"

1Bad4Runner · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 09:14:22 PM »

I will have to check that out tomorrow. I don't even know my backspacing, but that could be a problem too. I figure the spacer may have something to do with it, since I think it might put more wear on the bearings.

RustyToy · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 08, 2006, 06:36:48 PM »

put another nut on it

never mind

1Bad4Runner · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 09, 2006, 03:56:48 AM »

Ha! Ya... I checked it yesterday and they were fine, maybe my luck might change

robinhood4x4 · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 05:14:56 PM »

I don't understand how the bearing nuts can come loose, it seems impossible to me since everything is keyed. I think you're missing a part or something is damaged. From the inside out there should be

1. A big thick flat washer that is keyed to the spindle
2. Giant 54mm nut
3. thinner star washer thingy that is keyed to the spindle and bent over both nuts
4. Giant 54mm nut.

I think the "key" on one or both of your washers are worn down.

1Bad4Runner · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 07:34:56 PM »

I do have all the parts, my thin washers are new, but they seem to be able to turn into the threads a little... thats why I think I didn't tighen the lock nut tight enough. Do you think this might be right?

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 07:55:36 PM »

Turn into the threads??? I am confused, but I am gonna throw my 2 cents in here with robinhood4x4...I don't even check the nuts with a torque wrench, I do it by feel and I'm running 2.5 inch backspace wheels. I have never had an issue with the nuts coming loose...what about your spindles? Are the grooves in your spindles worn so that the lock washer spins out of the key?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 07:59:05 PM »

im confused as well, are you saying your washers are threaded?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 08:29:13 PM »

Quote from: 1Bad4Runner on Jul 10, 2006, 07:34:56 PM

I do have all the parts, my thin washers are new, but they seem to be able to turn into the threads a little... thats why I think I didn't tighen the lock nut tight enough. Do you think this might be right?

i think your right, tighten that outter nut TIGHT, then bend a couple of the star tabs over it

RustyToy · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 08:35:58 PM »

sounds like you need new star washers,,, like its worn enouph to spin just enouph to fit in the threads...

1Bad4Runner · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 11, 2006, 03:35:03 AM »

I think thats right RustyToy. I must have not tightened it enough one time and it wore so it would spin into the threads. Maybe I'll try tightening it pretty tight and see if I get any more problems. I guess I shouldn't tighten it with a chisel either

Guess I'll have to go to Toyota and buy a socket.

RustyToy · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 11, 2006, 06:33:50 AM »

I'm looking everywere right now. I refuse to pay more than 20 bucks for one. just trying the ask everyone i know method. a 2 1/8 will also work.

toyman1994 · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 11, 2006, 07:19:31 AM »

Here's how I have done mine since my truck was IFS and 30's to SA and 39.5 with 2.75 BS and 1.5 spacers and I have never had a problem. If you're bearing loosen up after you do this, you either have bad bearings, bad washers, or even a spindle.

1) put in outer bearing followed by thick keyed washer put on 1st nut
2) wrench that nut down tight until you cannot turn the wheel by hand
3) Loosen it back up just until the wheel spins freely
4) Tighten it back down until you can spin the wheel and it only turns about one to one and half complete revolution
5) install star washer
6) install 2nd nut and tighten it down tight

Now mind you, when I say tight, don't go getting all muscle on it with impacts and cheater bars and the such. I use a regular 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. Also, as far as the socket, yes a 2 1/8 socket works well. And also, 20 bucks on that socket is well worth the time and the parts you save vs using a screwdriver or chisel and above all wheel bearings since you will be able to properly install bearings with it.

1Bad4Runner · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 11, 2006, 06:58:55 PM »

I'll have to go see if I can find a 2 1/8" socket for a reasonable price then.

Thanks for all the information and help

All_Set · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 12, 2006, 02:23:27 PM »

You are aware that Marlin sells them for a decent price. Plus you're helping out a great company.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm#front

Knuckle Service Tools
MC-17100, 54mm Hub Socket, $24.99

1Bad4Runner · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 13, 2006, 04:19:22 AM »

I am very aware of this, but most of the money wouldn't go to Marlin. It would go to shipping, border fees, and brokerage fees. I live in Canada and I wish it was that easy to just buy something from Marlin. I am right now saving up the around $800 to buy the dual case adapter.

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