Author Topic: Cheap Lift  (Read 4934 times)

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87_Yotaman

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Cheap Lift
« on: Mar 18, 2006, 12:05:49 PM »
How can I lift the front of my IFS truck up like 2in. so I can slap some 33X12.50's on there for cheap? I know there are blocks for the rear but that leaves the front. I don't wont to get a body lift because I have only heard bad things about them.  Help please.  Thanks.

Alex
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #1 on: Mar 18, 2006, 01:47:44 PM »
Crank up the torsion bars, but I don't think it will give you enough. Maybe for 32's. But thats all I can think of besides a body lift. Maybe cranks the bars and enough block to level it and maybe a 1 inch body lift :dunno:

79coyotefrg

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #2 on: Mar 18, 2006, 02:23:35 PM »
crank the bars a touch and a 2 inch body lift,  but use good  steel blocks with polly cushions  and you'll  be fine
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #3 on: Mar 18, 2006, 02:45:32 PM »
Screw the body lift, that just puts your COG higher.  Get some good HD torsion bars like these from the Downey site and start cranking.  I'm actually surprised that Marlin doesn't sell these. http://downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm   Too much pre-loading on the stock torsions will fatigue them and ride like a log truck.  I have the Downey bars on my truck currently and am very happy with them!  I have 33" BFG's with no body lift or trimming. It's fine. Make sure you get a gusset for the bottom of your A-arms. The bigger tires will want to spread apart there and screw up your IFS. Oh and I threw some add-a-leafs on to help the rear. :driving: Happy trails!
« Last Edit: Mar 18, 2006, 02:50:06 PM by DirToyBoy »
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #4 on: Mar 18, 2006, 02:54:00 PM »
:eye::eye:
thats better  :yesnod:  :thumbs:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #5 on: Mar 18, 2006, 02:58:34 PM »
:eye::eye:
thats better :yesnod: :thumbs:
hehehehehehehehe  Yea, IFS sucks so this is really just a temporary fix so I can wheel 'til I get the SAS done! I think alot of us are in this same boat.  :driving:
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #6 on: Mar 18, 2006, 03:00:39 PM »
hey blackdog has beat the :pokinit:  out of his ifs  and if his engine stayed together  he's be driving it now :dunno:

i say wheel that ifs  till its busted  then SAS
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #7 on: Mar 18, 2006, 03:04:49 PM »
now i will tell you something i seen along time ago,  it was on a old nissan 4x4,  dude mounted  a couple leaves from a chevy  side by side,  crossways and upside down under the ifs,    like the shackle  was under the driverside A arm,  and the hanger end was under the pass side A arm

and used ubolts to hold the center to the crossmember

and it worked sweet
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #8 on: Mar 18, 2006, 03:09:11 PM »
now i will tell you something i seen along time ago, it was on a old nissan 4x4, dude mounted a couple leaves from a chevy side by side, crossways and upside down under the ifs, like the shackle was under the driverside A arm, and the hanger end was under the pass side A arm

and used ubolts to hold the center to the crossmember

and it worked sweet
That's pretty wierd. If it works that's awesome! Sounds like an interesting concept. Re: IFS, I have wheeled the crap out of mine and have not broken a single component on the front end.  I have rebuilt my CV's, that's it.  I'm not knocking it, it's very capable. I just want the best for my baby. ;)
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #9 on: Mar 18, 2006, 03:33:19 PM »
sorry i dont understand whats wrong with body lifts?? you say they raise the cog.. well.  what do you think you are doing when you lift a vehicle  perriod?    body lift you arent raising all the weight  only part of it.. a full lift you are raising all of the weight making your cog worse.
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #10 on: Mar 18, 2006, 03:42:02 PM »
sorry i dont understand whats wrong with body lifts?? you say they raise the cog.. well. what do you think you are doing when you lift a vehicle perriod? body lift you arent raising all the weight only part of it.. a full lift you are raising all of the weight making your cog worse.
yea but why get a body lift if it's not needed. you're already raising the COG w/suspension lift. why raise it more unncessarily? :dunno:
RIP KYOTA
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toyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

79coyotefrg

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #11 on: Mar 18, 2006, 06:26:14 PM »
well  if its all suspension  with big tires, then you would need lowered bumpstops,  with a 2 inch body lift done right you have better tire stuff potential,  without having to get the torch or sawzall out


i am going to do maybe a 2 inch BL on my truck  later on,  just for the gas tank and under bed tool box clearance
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #12 on: Mar 18, 2006, 07:10:48 PM »
well if its all suspension with big tires, then you would need lowered bumpstops, with a 2 inch body lift done right you have better tire stuff potential, without having to get the torch or sawzall out


i am going to do maybe a 2 inch BL on my truck later on, just for the gas tank and under bed tool box clearance
  Oh yea, thanks glen. I forgot about Low-pro poly bumpstops. Downey carries 'em too.
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toyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #13 on: Mar 18, 2006, 07:12:39 PM »
:smack:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

84_yota

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #14 on: Mar 19, 2006, 01:34:22 PM »
you could get some ball joint spacers if ya need that little bit of an extra lift. when i had my 94 i had my eye on some. heres the link.
 http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #15 on: Mar 20, 2006, 03:37:59 PM »
I put a 3" body lift on my 86 ifs toy and i clear 35x13.50x15 toyo mt's that thing gets it no fender trimming  I just took off my bumper ends and cut the inner fender well at the backs of the fenders the rear clears even when i jump cool huh wierd how some will clear and some wont

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #16 on: Mar 21, 2006, 09:05:31 PM »
my 87 IFS 4runner works fine with 33x12.50 without any lifts.
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #17 on: Mar 21, 2006, 09:06:58 PM »
Also works fine on off-road...
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #18 on: Mar 21, 2006, 10:56:31 PM »
balljoint spacers and crank the tbars a little bit..... dont put a block in the back, run an aal or longer shackles

as for the balljoint spacers, www.sdori.com
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #19 on: Mar 23, 2006, 10:08:18 PM »
Screw the body lift, that just puts your COG higher.  Get some good HD torsion bars like these from the Downey site and start cranking.  I'm actually surprised that Marlin doesn't sell these. http://downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm   Too much pre-loading on the stock torsions will fatigue them and ride like a log truck.  I have the Downey bars on my truck currently and am very happy with them!  I have 33" BFG's with no body lift or trimming. It's fine. Make sure you get a gusset for the bottom of your A-arms. The bigger tires will want to spread apart there and screw up your IFS. Oh and I threw some add-a-leafs on to help the rear. :driving: Happy trails!

Actually, a body lift keeps you COG LOWER then the same amount of suspension lift because the heavy stuff (engine, drivetrain) stay the same distance from the ground.  If you decide to mess with your IFS for lift then I would go the ball joint spacer route over cranking the t-bars.  Playing with the torsion bars just limits the already sad travel.

I personally run 33x12.5 with just a 2" body lift and am very happy with it.  I built mine myself for all of $40 canadian.  I just went to my local plastics supply store and had them make my up a bunch of 2.75"X2" dia. blocks out of UHMW polyurethane ($34) and then picked up some longer hardware ($6).  The wider the block the better.  2.75" is about the limit that will fit. 

Oh, and to add answer the WHY question?  A body lift has the added benefit of greatly enlarging many of the tight spaces that make working on our junk difficult.  Put in a 1.5-2" BL and then just use less lift when you do the SAS (ex. 2" BL, 3" springs, no drop hanger = 5" lift springs.

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #20 on: Mar 23, 2006, 10:41:48 PM »
How have I not seen this :headshake: must be slackin in my IFS induced haze :smack:


Glen, my motor is actually back together, and I've been drivingthe truck for about 2 months :yupyup:  and still beating the :pokinit: out of the IFS

87 yotaman, if you just want to put on some bigger tires, screw the torsion bars and throw on a 2" body lift.  You'll get the space you need, and you'll appreciate it when it comes to working on your truck.  :thumbs:  They can look kinda goofy, but you can hardly tell mine has one, ans it's got a 3" body lift.  Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to get my hands in to work on my truck.  Just make sure you get all the bolts tightened down right :thumbs:
Cranking the torsion bars sucks, and your flex actually suffers.  For a cheap lift, just to get 33"s under the truck, a bdoy lift or fender trimming is the way to go. :twocents:

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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #21 on: Mar 24, 2006, 12:06:26 AM »
my 4runner had a 3'bl and a pro comp ifs 4'lift(more like 3and a half). i want to take it down to a 2''bl now that i have my sas done. but for the money go with the bl for now, some guys still run it even with the sas, and you do have an amazing amount of room to work around like when you have to change the clutch or something.
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Re: Cheap Lift
« Reply #22 on: Mar 24, 2006, 08:45:46 AM »
For the front, how about a ball joint spacer, a small diff drop, a mild crank on the stock t-bars, and a weeee bit of the fender trimming.   :headscratch:

Seems like you could keep the ride a little nicer that way.

 
 
 
 
 

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