Removing rear axle with out using the SST?

Started by MiniSimp, January 20, 2006, 01:37:00 PM

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MiniSimp

Any way to take a rear axle off the backing plate with out using the damn SST?

bruiz05

yeah but its pretty involved.  if you take a 3" cuttoff wheel and cut off the slide collar and remove it, then flip the axle shaft spine side down and beat it on a peice of wood or some thing so you dont mess the spines up the bearing and backing plate will edventually come off.  I did this on mine and it takes alot of energy and time but it sure costs less than having a machine shop doing it.. Good luck mine was a pain in the butt.
1984 toy, e-lockers f/r, 5.29 yukon gears, 30 spline longs, custom 5" suspension, 37-14.00x17 bias Iroks,17x9 spyder locks, marlin bumper and sliders, T-Max 10,000lb winch, mc07-r10 dual cases w/4.7's in the rear, flat bed, GOT PROPANE, six states .250 wall drive lines and custom 2 1/4" exaust

Uncle Jesse

good luck.  from what I understand some retainers and bearings can be on tight, and some loose.  When I did mine they were on rock solid.  I would up making my own ghetto sst out of some steel I had lying around.  I took it to work to press it out and broke my sst.  Eventually went to a place here in town that specializes in toyotas and had them press it off.  Would up being super cheap because all i wanted them to do was press the bearings off.  With the sst that just takes minutes.

I had actually thought about using a three bolt puller and slide hammer.  Take axle out, remove snap ring, reinstall axle in axle tube, then use axle tube as your sst.  Wasn't keen about the possibility of screwing up the axle tube though.

mudmaster

Had to take mine to a shop to have it pressed off too. What a biatch!
Time to go wheelin!

gnob

it can be done as mentioned above, but it sucks some serious ass.
i spent an entire weekend once swapping new bearing and brake assemblies onto my IFS axles.
it was pretty lame.
after that i bought the 20 ton HF press and had a buddy build me an SST out of an old rear axle housing.
the job went from 20 hours to under 2.  and the tools paid for themselves the first time i used them.
all i can say is time is money.
hold this. . .

Rocksurfer

When something is beyond my capabilities I usually remove the piece I want rebuilt and let the experts set it up. I'm a good grease monkey but a lousey tech (no patience) I have a good freind that I take my parts to and he rebuilds them. He only charges me double the going price for screwing things up, and making his job harder.  :laugh:
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

reklund5

I used my old short rear housing and made the puller.  Cut a tube off just before it "necks up" to the diff, and weld a plate around it to put on the press.  The other end bolts onto the backing plate and the axle sticks out enought to press on.

Since nobody usually wants these old housings, it seemed like a good use.  The other side was used  in conjunction with the axle to make a ghetto tire changing station.  A few prybars, some soapy water, and you're in business!

Ryan

'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

Duffil

hmmm, what is an SST?? If your talking about changing axle bearings, we do it all the time at my work. It's pretty easy once you've done it once or twice.

All_Set

Quote from: reklund5 on January 21, 2006, 08:10:07 PM
I used my old short rear housing and made the puller.  Cut a tube off just before it "necks up" to the diff, and weld a plate around it to put on the press.  The other end bolts onto the backing plate and the axle sticks out enought to press on.

Since nobody usually wants these old housings, it seemed like a good use. 
Ryan



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reklund5

'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

hudlenutz

I did mine about a year ago.  I took the axles to a shop to get them pressed, because I didn't want to screw up my axles beating on them.  The shop couldn't get the backing plates off with their 50 ton press, and just bent the crap out of my plates, which tells me they didn't use a SST :maddest: .  I had to get new axles with plates from a junk yard. 

So in retrospect, try it out yourself, and if you can't get them off in under an hour, take 'em to somebody who knows what they're doing.

listen to gnob:
Quoteall i can say is time is money.

TNToy

#12
Leave everything except the brake drum on the backing plate. Even the brake shoes. You'll need all the weight you can get.

DO NOT forget to remove the snap ring on the axle shaft first. Do it now.

Wear thick gloves, earplugs (ears'll be RINGING ALL TO HELL by the end otherwise), and wrap a rag around you hands.

Stand the axle up on the end, so the splines face down and you're holding opposite sides of the backing plate.

Find a THICK, expendable piece of concrete, raise it as high as you can, and slam it. No, not hit it, not bump it, not tap it. Do your damndest to drive that shaft down THROUGH the concrete. You're trying to slam it hard enough to bend the axleshaft. Think of it that way. You need to hate the concrete.

If you're using a sidewalk (only 2" thick in most places), and you haven't cracked it clear across from side to side... or the heels of you palms don't hurt for two days afterwards... or the concrete isn't chipped up, you WILL NOT get it off. Hate the concrete.

You also won't hurt the splines. I've never managed to. If you put ANYHTING down to keep from chipping the concrete or hurting splines, THIS WILL NOT WORK. Hate the concrete.

However, it's faster than using a press, and after stalling a press twice and then using this method, I now walk right past the press and do this straight away. It's much faster.

Remember, hate the concrete. That's the only way it'll work. Say it in your head. SLAM! "Hate the concrete"... SLAM! "Hate the concrete"... SLAM! "Hate the concrete"... SLAM! "Hate the concrete"...

Weldo

This is kind of an old topic, but I'm curious.  I was wondering the best way to remove the backing plate from the rear axle, but I searched and found this thread.  Now I'm wondering how it goes back on.  Does it have to be pressed on before installation or can it be "pressed" on when you tighten up the plate onto the axle housing?  I was wondering because if I choose to carry an extra axle shaft on a trail run or something I wanted to know if I need to carry one WITH a backing plate.
Welders Hold the World Together!

Ramrod

I put mine back together with a hammer and piece of pipe and got the last 1/4" or so by bolting it to the housing.

CTENG in KS

Quote from: TNToy on February 09, 2006, 09:30:15 AM
Leave everything except the brake drum on the backing plate. Even the brake shoes. You'll need all the weight you can get.

DO NOT forget to remove the snap ring on the axle shaft first. Do it now.

Wear thick gloves, earplugs (ears'll be RINGING ALL TO HELL by the end otherwise), and wrap a rag around you hands.

Stand the axle up on the end, so the splines face down and you're holding opposite sides of the backing plate.

Find a THICK, expendable piece of concrete, raise it as high as you can, and slam it. No, not hit it, not bump it, not tap it. Do your damndest to drive that shaft down THROUGH the concrete. You're trying to slam it hard enough to bend the axleshaft. Think of it that way. You need to hate the concrete.

If you're using a sidewalk (only 2" thick in most places), and you haven't cracked it clear across from side to side... or the heels of you palms don't hurt for two days afterwards... or the concrete isn't chipped up, you WILL NOT get it off. Hate the concrete.

You also won't hurt the splines. I've never managed to. If you put ANYHTING down to keep from chipping the concrete or hurting splines, THIS WILL NOT WORK. Hate the concrete.

However, it's faster than using a press, and after stalling a press twice and then using this method, I now walk right past the press and do this straight away. It's much faster.

Remember, hate the concrete. That's the only way it'll work. Say it in your head. SLAM! "Hate the concrete"... SLAM! "Hate the concrete"... SLAM! "Hate the concrete"... SLAM! "Hate the concrete"...

This right here is one of the BEST pieces of tech I have ever read..."HATE THE CONCRETE!"
IFS is best kept at ambient temperature in a pile of scrap in the backyard.  When kept under a functioning vehicle, it tends to greatly diminish said vehicle's offroad ability.     -reklund5

4Runner: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4580.0
Beastmaster: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=34339.0

Weldo

lol, I liked that part, too.  Very specific and enlightening.
Welders Hold the World Together!

notajeep

You have a Jeep?  That's cute.... So does Barbi.

genericposter

84 4Runner - 4.88s, Rear Locker, 33"s
Senior Airman USAF
Si vis pacem, para bellum.

synwars

Quote from: TNToy on February 09, 2006, 09:30:15 AM
You'll need all the weight you can get.
Do your damndest to drive that shaft down THROUGH the concrete.
You need to hate the concrete.
Hate the concrete.
Hate the concrete.
Remember, hate the concrete.
Say it in your head.
SLAM! "Hate the concrete"...
SLAM! "Hate the concrete"...
SLAM! "Hate the concrete"...
SLAM! "Hate the concrete"...

That is the funniest yet most true post I've read. Sounds more like lyrics to a screamo-metal song. :rockingout:
"Don't let common sense stop you..."

Build up thread:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11425.0

KEEP IT CLEAN PEOPLE!!! :bat:

79coyotefrg

:nonono:  what did the concrete do to you :headshake: 


and this --->  


while being a great idea if you have a press  doesntwork if you DONT have a press


my idea works GREAT   and all you need  is a bottle jack and a  old housing





closer shot  of the  diff housing cut
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

79coyotefrg

remove the c clip from the axle
stand the  axle  drum down on the floor  slip your housing over it  and  put the nuts on  to hold the backing plate on the housing

then  i usually lean the entire unit against something  so it dont wack me in the head  when im not looking,

install the bottle jack,   and start jacking  till it pops  off,  remove jack
remove nuts   install new bearings
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

79coyotefrg

btw  the bump stop is there just to hold the jack in place for the pic :disturbed:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

KYOTA

Quote from: reklund5 on January 21, 2006, 08:10:07 PM
I used my old short rear housing and made the puller.  Cut a tube off just before it "necks up" to the diff, and weld a plate around it to put on the press.  The other end bolts onto the backing plate and the axle sticks out enought to press on.

Since nobody usually wants these old housings, it seemed like a good use.  The other side was used  in conjunction with the axle to make a ghetto tire changing station.  A few prybars, some soapy water, and you're in business!

Ryan



Quote from: Uncle Jesse on January 24, 2006, 04:43:22 PM
about half way down the page:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/rear_axle/wheel_bearing/

nice! I've go to do this next and happen to have a spare first gen housing laying around nobody wanted

79coyotefrg

hey when your as decrepid as i am you gotta  use your noggin  :hammer:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

MiniSimp


Duffil

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on December 22, 2007, 10:26:48 AM
remove the c clip from the axle
stand the  axle  drum down on the floor  slip your housing over it  and  put the nuts on  to hold the backing plate on the housing

then  i usually lean the entire unit against something  so it dont wack me in the head  when im not looking,

install the bottle jack,   and start jacking  till it pops  off,  remove jack
remove nuts   install new bearings

:slap:

toys  dont have a c- clip.

MiniSimp

Quote from: Duffil on December 22, 2007, 08:45:32 PM
:slap:

toys  dont have a c- clip.
He is talking about the snap ring next to the bearing retainer. :slap:

84xcab

#28
just got em off my shafts thursday. piece of aluminum on the floor. Raise and drop on aluminum. Don't slam it while still holding it. Let it go with its own weight. Just hold it so it don't fall over. one took me 30mins and the other took 2mins

Edit: lol didnt realize this thread was 9 months old
Bobbed 84 xtra cab, pickin up parts as I go.

If at first you do not succeed, put it in 4low and try again.

boggerunner

i slammed the shaft into a 5 gal bucket, it worked great!