have ? about puting a CAM in my truck

Started by toyota35bogger, January 03, 2006, 05:39:19 PM

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toyota35bogger

hey guy i just got a crane cam for my 4runner and i was wondering if i have to change the head gasket when i put the cam in thanks

reklund5

Yes.

To remove the camshaft, you have to remove the rocker arm assembly, which is held down by the head bolts.  Loosening the head bolts will un-seat the headgasket, necessitating a new headgasket.

Ryan
'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

Zoomschwortz

I read somewhere that if you drain the coolant, before removing the bolts, it will not unseat the head gasket. I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS SO IT COULD BE  :bull crap:

I guess you need to decide if is worth taking a chance. If it works you save yourself some work. If it doesn't work it will add a little more work for you since you will need to take all that stuff off again, but could go bad at the worst possible time.

If you don't change the gasket it might be worth using head studs instead of bolts. They clamp a lot better.
89 Ext. Cab, 22re 5 speed, 31"10.50/15"
84 Ext. Cab 22R, 5 speed, 31" 10.50/15"

toyota35bogger

yea i read the same thing about draining the coolent i don't know might have to do it and see

Marlin

#4
I have changed many camshafts and have never had a head gasket failure.

You must drain the coolant before you remove the head bolts.
Because eight of the ten head bolts have engine oil pumped to them thru the rocker arm assemble, the head bolt holes deep in the block must be sucked of oil when the bolts are removed, or the head bolts could hydraulic when torqued resulting in an under torqued head that will blow a gasket.

If you find a rusted head bolt, you will need a 12x1.25 mm tap to clean the block threads.

Re torque the head from the center out in three steps: 30 foot lbs, then 45, and final 57.
57 foot lbs cold, 63 lbs hot.

1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

84toyota

Quote from: Marlin on January 04, 2006, 07:56:48 PM
the block must be sucked of oil when the bolts are removed, or the head bolts could hydraulic when torqued resulting in an under torqued head that will blow a gasket.

What is the best way to clean out the holes in the block once the bolts have been removed?  Cotton swab?  Air compressor?

Thanks,
Ken