Blackdiamond Build-up

[blackdiamond]

from the looks of ot, that bar will be right at the lvel of the window roller?  If that is the case, I'd go ahead and pad it.  I hit my knee on the roller all the time.  Even if it isn't you can pad it, and if you hit it, great, if not, take the pad off   What did you use for padding?

I used pipe insulation foam wrapped in black duct tape.  I think I will wait until I can trial fit and see where my knee end up on the door.

[blackdiamond]

Here are a couple of pictures with the doors painted and installed.  Hopefully, I will get a chance to take my wife for a ride before I take them back off and return it to DD form.  I plan to work on a mirror setup next.

I think the black on the doors looks better than all yellow, see previous post.   

[blackdiamond]

After much          , I finally    and it was so simple I felt   

The two long screws will be replaced with a couple of shorter ones with wing nuts for easy removal and install.

[gotrocks]

nice I like it simple yet functional

[blackdiamond]

My drivers side rear brake has a problem as of today.  I guess I will get to learn about brakes now 

I couldn't figure out what was making all the noise and bumps...it still is hard to imagine it was just the brake.  I thought my driveshaft was comming loose, then it sounded like a something rubbing on wet rubber.    I don't even know how to describe it, but the brake was smokin when I got home so I pulled the wheel and the drum required a towel for removal.

 

[gotrocks]

hmm, I'd check you e brake first, sounds wierd but sometimes they stick.  if it was dragging then it'd be making that squeaking noise.  I'm willing to bet that its only the ebrake lever that is on that one side.  Mine kinda do that on one of my 4runners.  Keep us posted

[blackdiamond]

hmm, I'd check you e brake first, sounds wierd but sometimes they stick.  if it was dragging then it'd be making that squeaking noise.  I'm willing to bet that its only the ebrake lever that is on that one side.  Mine kinda do that on one of my 4runners.  Keep us posted

I pulled the wheel and drum off to let everything cool down as quickly as possible without using any outside influences that might cause it to warp.

The last time I checked, my e-brake was frozen in the free position.  The last time the brakes were sticking it was the e-brake and I hammered it into the free position and it solved the problem.

It would be a good thing if it was the e-brake, but any other ideas in case the e-brake is working?

[Rocksurfer]

I pulled the wheel and drum off to let everything cool down as quickly as possible without using any outside influences that might cause it to warp.

The last time I checked, my e-brake was frozen in the free position.  The last time the brakes were sticking it was the e-brake and I hammered it into the free position and it solved the problem.

It would be a good thing if it was the e-brake, but any other ideas in case the e-brake is working?

How hard was it to get the drum off, besides being a little hot? If it was easy I wouldn't think the pads were dragging on the drum.

[blackdiamond]

How hard was it to get the drum off, besides being a little hot? If it was easy I wouldn't think the pads were dragging on the drum.

The drum came off very easily, so maybe the brakes are not the problem.  I forgot to mention that my buddy and I smelled fresh gear oil a couple of times and were thinking that maybe the seal couldn't take the heat.

Maybe the axle/wheel bearing? 

E-brake level still appear to be frozen in the "off" position

[blackdiamond]

 

When it comes to wrenching I am a bit of a so I will need some 

I am planning to pull the axle out, I know it should be stupid simple, but here is my plan:

(1) Remove tire & Brake drum (done)
(2) Drain differential fluid
(3) Disconnect Brake Line (How much fluid should I be ready to catch? Do I need a special tool?)
(4) Disconnect the e-brake (done)
(5) Take off the four nuts
(6) Pull the axle out and hopefully find the problem

Now please pass along some wisdom!

 

[Rocksurfer]

The drum came off very easily, so maybe the brakes are not the problem.  I forgot to mention that my buddy and I smelled fresh gear oil a couple of times and were thinking that maybe the seal couldn't take the heat.

Maybe the axle/wheel bearing? 

E-brake level still appear to be frozen in the "off" position

That's what I'm thinking you may have a bad bearing.

[gotrocks]

(1) Remove tire & Brake drum (done)
(2) Drain differential fluid

*Break it loose with a air gun, but be careful and try to undo the drain plug by hand because it can be a mess if you let the gun sling it off, Trust me oil in your hair sucks.*

(3) Disconnect Brake Line (How much fluid should I be ready to catch? Do I need a special tool?)

* No I just use a pop bottle or a water bottle with the top cut off and  just make sure you don't round the nut off when you take it off.  Simply use a wrench and unscrew the brake line, don't be afraid to bend it a little to pull it away from the drum and just let it drain itself.  You won't need to pump the brakes to get the fluid to start flowing*

(4) Disconnect the e-brake (done)
(5) Take off the four nuts

*not hard to do, just like you said unbolt then pull*

(6) Pull the axle out and hopefully find the problem


Now please pass along some wisdom!

[blackdiamond]

Thanks

When I called the shop for an estimate for removing the old and pressing on the new bearings I figure I might as well ask about the entire job, it was about 4 hours labor and the mechanic said it was a pain in the butt.  Anybody want to explain what makes it a pain?

I don't want to tear into it and find out that I'm in over my head. 

[synwars]

Don't worry any back yard mechanic can do it. Including me!

First, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Safely block your front tires, and put your rear axle on jack stands. (The beginning instructions in every Haynes manual section hahaha)

Do all that you wrote above.

Use a mallet on the backing plate to help the shafts out of the axle.

I think you have to pull all your brake crap off the backing plate for the next step...

Wrap/tape the end of the stub with something to protect it. Grab the backing plate and smash the stubb into the ground (concrete works best) until your bearing and retainer slide off.

Use a seal puller to pull the old seal out of the axle housing. Install new seal (preferably double lip seal) with punch or large socket and a hammer. If you are careful you can do it with only a hammer.

Put your drum back over your brakes and lay it face down with your stub pointing up. Find a piece of pipe/tube with a little bit bigger ID as your shafts widest OD. However, nothing larger than the inner race of the bearing. Slide your bearing down the shaft and use the pipe/tube to drive the bearing on into place. Next slide the retainer onto the shaft. I used a punch and a hammer to drive it on snug up to the bearing. Grease helps, or oil.

When sliding the axle back in, be careful of running the shaft on the rubber seal and tearing/warping it. Also be sure to keep it center on the inside end. There is a thin tin shield at the inside end of the axle tube that acts as a splash guard or something. It has a hole for the shaft. If you miss it and ram the end of the shaft into it you can bend it into the third member by accident.

Throw you nuts back on a voila! Do the reverse of your instructions...

I think that's it???

[blackdiamond]

I don't claim to be a mechanic, but I think I located the problem.

[blackdiamond]

more...

[blackdiamond]

I think you have to pull all your brake crap off the backing plate for the next step...

Wrap/tape the end of the stub with something to protect it. Grab the backing plate and smash the stubb into the ground (concrete works best) until your bearing and retainer slide off.

Use a seal puller to pull the old seal out of the axle housing. Install new seal (preferably double lip seal) with punch or large socket and a hammer. If you are careful you can do it with only a hammer.

Throw you nuts back on a voila! Do the reverse of your instructions...

How do I take the brake crap off?

What function does the c-clip have?

Where do I go from here?

[synwars]

Holy CRAP! That's bad!

Well, at least you know what to do. I'm gonna throw in one more instruction:

Wire brush that crap!

Let us know if you need anymore help!  

[_HOIST_]

Did your wheel spin freely when you got the rear end off the ground? Did you hear any abnormal knoise when the tire spun?? You have the basic idea of how to take i apart. You should get a decent amount of brake fluid since you are close to the Load Sensing Valve. Also check you ring & pinion for excessive play.

[synwars]

Brake crap comes off with needle nose pliers, hammer, screw driver, and some common sense. DO NOT DISMANTLE BOTH BRAKES. Do one at a time, just in case you forget how to put it back together, you can reference from the other side.

Which c-clip are you talking about?

Look at instructions left above.

[blackdiamond]

Did your wheel spin freely when you got the rear end off the ground? Did you hear any abnormal knoise when the tire spun?? You have the basic idea of how to take i apart. You should get a decent amount of brake fluid since you are close to the Load Sensing Valve. Also check you ring & pinion for excessive play.

The wheel didn't spin easily and with the axle pulled it won't hardley turn.

What am I checking in the R&P?

[gotrocks]

with the axle shafts pulled you can turn the flange on the 3rd member to feel if it is sloppy or feels tight.  Wiggle it back and forth and feel how much play it has, if there is alot then thats not good, but there should be a tinny little bit of play before the ring gear starts to turn.

(sorry this isn't the best way to describe it wish I was there to help)

[synwars]

If you're checking for pinion deflection or backlash, you will need to pull the third member to do it properly. You might as well seeing as both your axles are out, you're already most of the way there...

[blackdiamond]

I pulled the passenger side axle, the bearing has some wiggle but had not self destructed like the drivers side.

[synwars]

It's a sealed ball bearing so there should be no wiggle to it. It should be SOLID, like me. Time to change it!!!

[blackdiamond]

It's a sealed ball bearing so there should be no wiggle to it. It should be SOLID, like me. Time to change it!!!

That is the plan...

[blackdiamond]

Thanks to work I had to take the axles to the shop for a rebuild which turned out to be a good thing because the failed bearing tested his skills during the removal and the final charge was reasonable.

I have the axles re-installed, but I think I blew a wheel cylinder while attempting to bleed the brakes. 

This is why I don't do my own wrenching, I screw up the most simple things.  My wife pumped the brakes and then something popped.  I was trying to bleed the drivers rear and heard, then saw, fluid coming out of the passenger rear.  On closer inspection it was coming from the fwd side of the wheel cylinder.

What now?     

[BLACKDOG]

Thanks to work I had to take the axles to the shop for a rebuild which turned out to be a good thing because the failed bearing tested his skills during the removal and the final charge was reasonable.

I have the axles re-installed, but I think I blew a wheel cylinder while attempting to bleed the brakes. 

This is why I don't do my own wrenching, I screw up the most simple things.  My wife pumped the brakes and then something popped.  I was trying to bleed the drivers rear and heard, then saw, fluid coming out of the passenger rear.  On closer inspection it was coming from the fwd side of the wheel cylinder.

What now?     

if the wheel cylinder is leaking, replace it!  Its pretty simple to do.  Take the drum off, and you can probably figure out the rest yourself   just got buy a new one from wherever you buy your parts, and stick it in there.  If you just look at it its pretty self explanatory

[blackdiamond]

 

I just talked to gotrocks and when we discussed the bleeding process he assumed exactly what BD did.

Take the drum off, and you can probably figure out the rest yourself just got buy a new one from wherever you buy your parts, and stick it in there.

I had my wife pump the brakes without the drums installed.  My wallet pays the price of stupidity once again. 

This has been a no good very bad week so far, at least I am becoming less ignorant with my truck. 

[blackdiamond]

 Marlin Board Members Blackdiamond

I appreciate this thread not being overloaded with people  at and  me.

When it comes to wrenching, I am often amazed by my own stupidity.   

I just had the wheel cylinders replaced a few months back so at least I should only have to replace one.  Toyota is getting the part for tomorrow.

Now do you see why it is soooo important that I build my truck to be reliable?