Author Topic: Blackdiamond Build-up (Read 20912 times)

blackdiamond · « **on:** Oct 20, 2005, 12:22:13 PM »

Here is a link to my Rig Gallery thread (Blackdiamond History):

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11704.msg122372#msg122372

I figured that I should start a Project Build-up thread to get advise for where to go next. For a summary, here is a list of current mods:
(1) 4.5" Superlift front Springs
(2) 3.5" Alcan Rear Springs with 1" block and 2" extended Marlin Shackles
(3) Single 4.70 Marlin transfer case with twin stick
(4) 33x12.50 BFG Mud KM tires on 15x10 rockcrawler wheels
(5) 32/36 Weber Carb
(6) Heavy Duty Marlin Crossmember
(7) 4.88 Yukon Gears
(8) Trutrac limited slip front & Detroit locker rear
(9) Bed "bobbed" 13"

I am currently thinking about upgrading to the Longfield Super Axle set (27 or 30 spline) and then either putting a Detroit in the front or moving the rear Detroit to the front and putting a spool in the rear.

Budget is an issue so there are two things that I can do to minimize cost:
(a) Move the existing detoit to the front and put a spool in the rear - saving the cost between a spool and detroit.
(b) Have the limited slip swapped for a detroit in the front and use the existing R&P since it isn't turning all the time.

Isn't it standard procedure to not re-use the R&P?

For the record, duals, 35s, cage and rocker guards are in the future plans as well.

Thanks for the help!

Ramrod · « **Reply #1 on:** Oct 20, 2005, 12:46:00 PM »

It is fine to re-use the r&p. I did it already once. I think the detroit front spool rear sounds good to me, along with the longfield set. remember if you break an inner with a detroit it will blow it.

All_Set · « **Reply #2 on:** Oct 20, 2005, 03:12:46 PM »

x2 on reusing r&p.

Detroit in the front is good, but if anything breaks on that front axle, you take a chance of taken out that $500 detroit too. (ouch!)

You could also leave the detroit in the back for streetablity and put a lunchbox locker up front. (not much more than a spool)

Or weld the rear, put that detroit in the front. That'd be the cheapest right??

blackdiamond · « **Reply #3 on:** Oct 20, 2005, 04:00:47 PM »

I will be upgrading the inner axles as well so the hub should be the weak link.

My truck is my daily driver so I'm not sure about having a spool in the back for tire wear and handling, I suspect it wouldn't be a huge difference with the exception of losing the surging.

A lunchbox locker would be a good plan except that I would have to purchase an open carrier along with the locker since I will be replacing the limited slip.

Hyena · « **Reply #4 on:** Oct 20, 2005, 08:41:57 PM »

Reuse the R&P. I have put welded spiders in both of mine and reused the gears. It doesn't hurt anything, Just make sure they gears are set-up right with the new locker in it.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #5 on:** Oct 24, 2005, 08:37:49 PM »

I am thinking Aussie Locker front, so I need to pick up an open differential carrier since I have a limited slip currently installed.

Does anybody have one they are willing to sell/ship cheap?

blackdiamond · « **Reply #6 on:** Oct 26, 2005, 08:15:49 PM »

Carrier is on the way. Hopefully the Aussie isn't far behind followed by the 30-spline longs.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 11:58:20 AM »

The Aussie should arrive tomorrow and the 30 spline Long set should happen around Christmas.

Can somebody give me the Basic 101 process for changing the front birfields (to Longs) and inner axles. Is the process any different if the purpose of the tear down was simply to pull the 3rd member?

Thanks

Ramrod · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 02:28:03 PM »

putting longs in is just the same as putting any axle in, very easy

blackdiamond · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 04:50:59 PM »

Quote from: bigbluewillys on Nov 16, 2005, 02:28:03 PM

putting longs in is just the same as putting any axle in, very easy

What I am asking is what is the general process and is the full tear down (i.e for axle replacement) required just to pull the 3rd member.

Hyena · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 05:20:46 PM »

You have 2 choices. You can pull the whole nuckle off by the steering arms and not have to go through the hub. You don't have to deal with the wheel bearings and such. And you have to take the axles with the birfs out.

the other choice is to leave the nuckles on. Go in through the hub which means who have to take the the wheel bearins off, the rotor, the spindle and that stuff. And then the axles and bifrs.

You need to pull the axles before you can get the third member out.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 05:35:18 PM »

Quote from: Hyena on Nov 16, 2005, 05:20:46 PM

You have 2 choices. You can pull the whole nuckle off by the steering arms and not have to go through the hub. You don't have to deal with the wheel bearings and such. And you have to take the axles with the birfs out.

the other choice is to leave the nuckles on. Go in through the hub which means who have to take the the wheel bearins off, the rotor, the spindle and that stuff. And then the axles and bifrs.

You need to pull the axles before you can get the third member out.

So the easiest way would be to drain the gear oil, disconnect the brakes, pull the knuckles as an assembly and then the birfield and inner axle will be left hanging out to be easily pulled?

yotaboy79 · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 05:51:12 PM »

eather method your gunna have to take the hub off and take the snap ring out i usualy just pull the brake calapers and let them hang then the hub rotor and spindle then turn the birf so the flat spots are alighned with where the trunion brearing are and pull some times it take a little coacsing to them out but they will

Yota4life · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 07:02:42 PM »

It would be a better deal to pull the whole knuckle and not have to torque the wheel bearings again with the 54mm nut and lock nut. Less work for you

blackdiamond · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 30, 2005, 01:42:03 PM »

Due to a combination of wanting to get the mods done soon (so that I know everything works before Moab in March) and I suspect that I will be working weekends for a while, the toy is headed to the shop for an Aussie and Longfield upgrade. My time is much better spent at work making money on OT.

I also ordered a set of Shaffer's Offroad tube doors today so my wife and dad will feel safe in Moab with the doors off. My dad didn't like me climbing rocker knocker hill without any doors last time.

I'm getting excited already!

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 30, 2005, 01:59:30 PM »

Breathe son, breathe!

blackdiamond · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 06, 2006, 09:02:02 PM »

Aussie and Longfields are installed!

Short Commercial Break:

Bayview 4x4 in Bremerton, WA is a great shop.

I was out the door, prior to tax, with parts and labor for less than the labor estimate. If I wasn't an honest guy I could have saved another $25, but that's not my style. The owner wanted me to confirm the estimate he gave me and his memory was $50 low so he split the difference.

Also, the mechanic that setup my gears asked how long it had been since he last setup the gears. I asked him why he was asking and he told me that he didn't remember the truck at all, but recognized some punch marks that were his on the 3rd member. It has been about 3 years so I figure that he must be very methodical in his setup if he can recognize his own work after that long.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 06, 2006, 10:29:34 PM »

Maybe he just "trademarks" his own work so he can keep track of returns/problems.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 08:24:20 PM »

Pictures of the Shaffer's Offroad tube doors. Notice the "slam" latch.

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 08:31:46 PM »

Lookin good dude!!! Why did ya pick yellow? Doors look good, wish I could be buying stuff to make my truck better.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 08:36:50 PM »

Quote from: BLACKDOG on Jan 10, 2006, 08:31:46 PM

Lookin good dude!!! Why did ya pick yellow? Doors look good, wish I could be buying stuff to make my truck better.

Just trying to make it unique (since I have BFG tires

) and it was the one that just seemed right. I was thinking green, red, black or yellow. Red is almost most impossible to find a good color, I couldn't figure out a green that I liked, black is boring, and yellow matches the Detroit locker stickes on the bed.

Plus...Yellow = Caution which will keep me safe on the road!

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 08:41:08 PM »

It definitely looks good.

I'm diggin the contrast it really does scream CAUTION!!!!

I just started reading that book you sent, so far, its very interesting

blackdiamond · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 08:45:49 PM »

Quote from: BLACKDOG on Jan 10, 2006, 08:41:08 PM

It definitely looks good. I'm diggin the contrast it really does scream CAUTION!!!!

I just started reading that book you sent, so far, its very interesting

I like the idea of other drivers seeing the doors before they run into them.

The book actually gets more interesting towards the end, I learned a lot. My dad currently has the other book and I will forward when he is finished with it.

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 10:24:35 PM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Jan 10, 2006, 08:45:49 PM

I like the idea of other drivers seeing the doors before they run into them.

The book actually gets more interesting towards the end, I learned a lot. My dad currently has the other book and I will forward when he is finished with it.

always a plus, huh?

shad · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 11:44:17 PM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Jan 10, 2006, 08:24:20 PM

Pictures of the Shaffer's Offroad tube doors. Notice the "slam" latch.

I wuv those style tube doors they are the best looking ones in my opinion.

gotrocks · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 12:52:38 AM »

wow man I really like the doors. i'm glad your getting your truck together. Can't wait for Moab, now if only I could get my runner done

blackdiamond · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 07:16:23 PM »

Here is a picture of my latest Marlin sticker!

The ones on the doors will come off when I run the tube doors.

I will get pictures up of the tube doors installed once I get them finished, almost done.

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 08:29:20 PM »

definetly coming along. looks good

blackdiamond · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 18, 2006, 09:08:42 PM »

Pictures of painted doors with padding. I am also considering added padding on the forward end of the top tube in case I bump my knee, any experience with this happening? Once I get them mounted it will be easier to determine if it is needed.

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 18, 2006, 11:08:14 PM »

from the looks of ot, that bar will be right at the lvel of the window roller? If that is the case, I'd go ahead and pad it. I hit my knee on the roller all the time. Even if it isn't you can pad it, and if you hit it, great, if not, take the pad off

What did you use for padding?

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