Author Topic: overheating problem!!! HELP! (Read 7617 times)

TEXXX · « **on:** Sep 13, 2005, 10:40:11 PM »

Ok heres the problem. my 80 was overheating on the trail getting real hot average running temp around 210 going up to 260! so i pulled the thermostat. it didnt help. now i put in a 3 row and new 10 inch electric fan. drove it a little today and it got real hot again temp almost pinned out i pulled over and nothing was boiling over or anything so i popped the cap open and it didnt seem that hot. then i put crawler in low low and went up a couple hills the temp would get hot then drop all of a sudden?

? any sugestions? doesnt seem to be any fluid in the oil but the coolant is a little frothy.
HELP I NEED TO GO THIS WEEKEND AND WOULD BE UPSET IF I MISSED ROUND UP!

Geno · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 10:50:29 PM »

Is the fan clutch operating corectly? I had an 81 Toy that would run real hot all the time. I had changed just about everything including the headgasket. I ended up taking it to a shop and it was the fan clutch. Who knew.

RHG · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 10:53:40 PM »

Hmmmm, maybe a water jacket plugged? Or a faulty sensor. If you dont think its that warm then maybe the sensor is tweaking out. 3row with e-fan should be more than plenty to cool a 22RE. Make sure your hoses arnt kinked or collapsed. If you look in through the rad opening when the thermostat opens yo should see it flwoing real good. Make sure its doing that. I hate finicky cooling systems, such a PITA. Hope it fixes, good luck.

TEXXX · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 10:55:11 PM »

its a 20r

TEXXX · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 10:55:57 PM »

it looks like it is flowing when i take the rad cap off.

mr4x42u · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 01:42:29 AM »

test the radiator cap...prolly bad..

BigMike · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 12:42:32 PM »

This sounds like you've got a huge air pocket, and also, a 10" fan won't do crap to cool your engine man... I had a 14" and my engine was starting to climb the gauge while I was on a SNOW RUN! none the less.. Lots of engine powering with little movement of air is a bad combination.

You need a 16" fan, or one pusher and puller of smaller sizes (two total) if you want to use electrics.

Check for air pockets, The rad. cab is a good idea, but this is only if it's loosing coolant. Without the added pressure (~14psi) from a rad. cap, the boiling point will fall back down to ambient (~100 C) which means that your engine's cooling system is already boiling by the time it's at operating temp, and then you get vapors that cant be moved by the water pump, and then with these air pockets, you get overheating like crazy.

TEXXX · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 01:02:44 PM »

what about water pump?

TEXXX · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 01:04:01 PM »

when the thermostat was out i could see it visibly moving. i just put a 180 therm in and dont see any movement.

BigMike · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 01:08:35 PM »

The only way the water pump could be bad without you knowing it, is if the space between it and the timing cover housing was opened up and water was cavatating. Otherwise, you would know if its bad. Squeeling, thumping, wobbling pump pulley, etc.

I hope you are not using a STANT theromostat. THEY DONT WORK. Spend the extra $4 and get a genuine Toy stat. You will thankyouself later

TEXXX · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 10:22:02 PM »

any one else got any ideas?

BigMike · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 10:23:37 PM »

GET A REAL ENGINE FAN

TEXXX · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 10:26:04 PM »

i cannot fit a bigger fan in there with the new rad.

TEXXX · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 10:33:32 PM »

ok here is the last thing i can think of! i am gonna mount my old bigger electric fan to the front as a pusher hope it works run this weekend and if i crack a head or something... get a 22re!

BigMike · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 10:35:41 PM »

Then you will have overheating problems everytime you slow down or come to a stop. Even with that 10" fan on all the time, there is no way it can move enough air unless you are driving at 30mph or faster... And when you are pulling hills, sometimes you are only doing 40mph or so, and the engine is working at its hardest rate, and that's normally when a stock 17" (?) clutch fan will kick-in and get to business. So sometimes the natural air flow that you get when you truck is up to speed isn't quite enough to keep the engine at 190 degrees. You should try to mount a larger pusher fan, and use the puney 10" as a back-up fan then. Do something to fit at least a 14" or ideally a 16" fan in front of your rad. pushing air into it.....

Good luck

TEXXX · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 10:40:37 PM »

thanks for your help big mike hope i get to see ya up there this weekend!

BigMike · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 10:44:38 PM »

Sounds good man, I hope I am providing ya with something useful

mr4x42u · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 15, 2005, 01:44:02 AM »

Quote from: BigMike on Sep 14, 2005, 12:42:32 PM

, The rad. cab is a good idea, but this is only if it's loosing coolant.

this is sometimes true,,but not always..I have seen many go bad and not loose coolant,,or a slight amount that goes un noticed..it could just push into the over flow over leaking and being noticed..

BigMike · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 15, 2005, 10:19:32 AM »

If the caps bad, then two things happen:
#1 It allows more coolant to pass into the overflow than normal.
#2 When the engine is turned off and the system is cooling down, a bad cap will bleed needed pressure in order to syphon the coolant back into the system, so less coolant is returned back into the system.

So not only is more coolant being pushed out, but also less coolant is getting returned back into the system. It's a double whammy!

TEXXX · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 15, 2005, 10:06:52 PM »

I put the other fan on and it is running cool as the other side of the pillow! See yall up on the con!

BigMike · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 16, 2005, 12:44:15 AM »

SWEET!

Toy4therock · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 16, 2005, 08:30:24 AM »

Well, I sure can appreciate your problem! As Ive got a real simular one in that of no oil pressure?But Im preety I nailed that one down or at least I will know here shortly.As these things can really get really irritating after enough work and in your now case money and farther worrys.About all I can think of would be what the one fellow suggested in your water jacket possably?But is you have what appears to be normal flow rates.Then Id put my efforts in the sender replacement first and the the temp guage as its possable but unlikely thats fualty! I had remaved all my factory instraments and went with all autometers in the ultralites with exception of the tach.Thats a supercomp mini in the same silver finnish and with all blur lighting.They ROCK! However this isnt really what you or most will want as its really spendy, like 475.00 for all when said and not at all done!As anyone whod not know any better as I hadnt and was hell bendt for this test.Had all the guages and speedo along in the old panel sitting on my kitchen table.Thinking and concerned about how to cut out each and every hole so they would all be the proper distance from one another etc.As well nice and round.Due to like many I dont have any machine shop.And now the garage slightly more looks as a mini half baked one only.So we do what we have to to get it done and files are my best friends or my arms!At any rate the entire ECU runs through the back of that entire plate in a printed circuit! So if anyone entertains such? Let me know as theres two ways one expensive one nothing.Also its alittle late now.But Summitracing is my best unkept secret for many many things all over inside and out my yoter.And all things you wont find at the specialty shops as marlins.And why Im shopping here for the rest of anything he carrys I need.But radiator GRIFFIN aluminum big dual row race in ford style universal nascar.189.00 Only you will need to chop alittle steel and move it forward so anyone with A/C forget it.Its only for anyone whos building a rig which isnt much of any stock unit.And you dont care about cutting and weldin.But that with a black magic fan! WOW Zero cooling problems. In fact my fan usually wont come on untill the engines shut down.OR at long standing lights and most likely on warm days crawling.So good luck hope that works out so ya can make it out there!

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

TEXXX [OP]

Toy4therock

Related Topics