TOOLS TO CHANGE A BIRF.....

Started by 4DEES, September 03, 2005, 01:50:04 AM

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4DEES

okay so I've never changed a birfield(knock on wood) and I want to be ready for MCR4,what tools are needed to change one? I just want to make sure I have all the right tools needed incase I do break. thanx guys!  :thumbs:   :beerchug: 
***ROCK BRAWLERS~Southern Cali***
www.rockbrawlers.com 

'85 Toy, 42's and a body lift!

ROCK IT TILL THE WHEELS FALL OFF!!

Willy Mammoth

Well I am doing this right now so I will give it a go and see what I miss.

Lug wrench
10mm socket
12mm socket
ratchet 3/8" and or 1/4"
drift punch and hammer
snap ring pliers
14mm socket
17mm socket
tub to catch the grease, oil and parts
good to have a new inner axle seal and grease.
grey permatex
lots of rags and some brake cleaner



Did I forget anything?

This is a basic list and you should be able to get by with these tools.
If you have others like the wheel nut socket it makes it easier, but not needed.
:usa: American by birth, redneck by choice. 

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RHG

I do believe that thats about waht it took to take apart mine. Hey YOTAon40's do a search and see if you can find the write up about the "camo" method of changing a birf. I think it would save a lot of time. MAke sure you have extras of the little crap that might break or get lost in the process. Like snap rings, maybe two each of the bolts for the hub and the metal flange that holds the gasket and felts to the knuckle. Hopefully you wont have to change one but running 38's on stock birfs...its only a matter of time.
Only the dead have seen the end of war - Plato

89 Ext Cab Long Bed, SAS'd, Double 2.28's, 5.29's, 38" TSL's, Allied Beadlocks, Half Doors, Custom Trail Bodywork

Tice

Quote from: rocks hurt good on September 03, 2005, 05:45:14 AM
Hopefully you wont have to change one but running 38's on stock birfs...its only a matter of time.



I can hear them (birfs) shaking right now!!!! :greengrin:
I don't need a winch, I wheel a TOYOTA!!!!!!!


www.wheelingarizona.com

Hyena

The camo method doesn't work on a lot of trucks.  Like mine, because it envolves taking the steerign arm off.  But mine is a pita to get off and back one.  I could spend 20 minutes trying to get one arm off, it all depends on if the arm wants to come off or not.  I just take the spindle off and get the birf from there.  I don't think you save that much time by doing the camo method even if you can get the steering arm off and back on.  If you do it my way then you will also need the big wheel bearing nut socket.

RHG

I gots a Q about that big wheel bearing nut socket...on the SA that I took apart those nuts wernt very tight. There was the piece that gets bent over to act as a lock. Also, the nuts looked like they were tightened or loosened at one time with a chisle and a hammer??? Is that the unproper method? I hope the knuckle rebuild kit comes with new ones cause I dont want to put them busted up ones back in.
Only the dead have seen the end of war - Plato

89 Ext Cab Long Bed, SAS'd, Double 2.28's, 5.29's, 38" TSL's, Allied Beadlocks, Half Doors, Custom Trail Bodywork

4DEES

thanx for the info guys  :thumbs:  , and I have read the "camo" method,(which tells you HOW to change a birf "faster") I was just wondering what tools exactly were needed. thanx again  :beerchug:   :thumbs:
***ROCK BRAWLERS~Southern Cali***
www.rockbrawlers.com 

'85 Toy, 42's and a body lift!

ROCK IT TILL THE WHEELS FALL OFF!!

4DEES

Quote from: Tice on September 03, 2005, 08:09:29 AM


I can hear them (birfs) shaking right now!!!! :greengrin:
I'm not THAT worried because my front is not locked up so it shoud be a little less stress on the birfs.
***ROCK BRAWLERS~Southern Cali***
www.rockbrawlers.com 

'85 Toy, 42's and a body lift!

ROCK IT TILL THE WHEELS FALL OFF!!

Willy Mammoth

Quote from: rocks hurt good on September 03, 2005, 03:00:53 PM
I gots a Q about that big wheel bearing nut socket...on the SA that I took apart those nuts wernt very tight. There was the piece that gets bent over to act as a lock. Also, the nuts looked like they were tightened or loosened at one time with a chisle and a hammer??? Is that the unproper method? I hope the knuckle rebuild kit comes with new ones cause I dont want to put them busted up ones back in.

Yup they come in Marlins bearing kit and you can do it with a chisel if you don't have a socket, but the socket won't mess up the nuts.
:usa: American by birth, redneck by choice. 

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flourman

I don't know how much is different, but here is a list of tools for a Land Cruiser birf and a quick and dirty removal process.

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf_removal.php

ih8mud is a great source for Toyota tec (not that Marlin isn't), but it has a slightly different group of people that have some great ideas
Doin' it FULLSIZE style!

Willy Mammoth

That is the same as the trucks, but you do not have to remove the knuckel. You can pull the axle out after removing the spindle. Just turn the shaft and line up the flats with the  pivot bearings.
:usa: American by birth, redneck by choice. 

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Hyena

The wheel bearing nuts shouldn't be loose.  The inner one should be torqued to 55 foot pounds.  then you back that off and make it hand tight.  Then the lock washer thingy go on.  then the outer nut gets torqued to 55 foot pounds and stays that way.  Then on the lock washer thing you fold one tab in and one tab out.

I have used a screw driver to get the nuts off before i bought the big socket.  It does mess up the edge of the nut.  The socket is well worth the $20 or so dollars.