Mods for an 83

Started by thebigl2005, July 31, 2005, 09:51:01 PM

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thebigl2005

Well There are a few things I have questions on ??? , to start when you put your rears up front does that put a lift in the back? and can you still you another set of rears for the rear too?

thebigl2005

yea let me re-phrase that. I want to know it I put the rears up front will it lift it up, and can I just use rears for the rear?

BigMike

I do not know about the lift differences, but I know that by running the rear leafs up front, your axle will be repositioned by about an inch (???).

I do not know if the truck will sit level with two sets of rear springs, both up front and back. If it doesn't sit right, then just build yourself a longer set of shackles to level it out. Just remember that the shackles are only at one end, so a shackle that is 1" longer, will only yield a 1/2" increase of lift.

BigMike
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thebigl2005

Ok I see what your saying. So Big Mike do you think Shackles are a better lift then a Body? I was also thinking of adding a leaf. I really just need a big enough lift to clear 33's, so I was thinkin two would do it.

decyfer

when you run rears up front you will move your axle forward about two inches. you will need to get a longer shackle for the rear casue i won't sit flat.  shackles are WAY better than a body. body just makes you be able to clear bigger tires. it doesn't help with flex at all. you can add a leaf but thats going to make your flex worse too. just do bigger shackles all around. you'll be a lot happier
is it bad when you unplug the power wire from your stereo and it still plays

thebigl2005

so when you say bigger shackles, like 2 1/2 in the rear and 2 in the front?

And I'm kinda confused, should i go with a body or not? I hear so many different thing about them.

decyfer

i wouldn't do a body unless you had to. like if you did and engine swap and  needed more clearance for that. body lift puts your center of gravity up higher. those shackles will work
is it bad when you unplug the power wire from your stereo and it still plays

thebigl2005

you think that they will be able to clear 33's?

decyfer

i cleared 32"s without any problems. i wasn't even close to the fenders.
is it bad when you unplug the power wire from your stereo and it still plays

thebigl2005

right on thanks, any other tips you might have?

decyfer

have fun. toys are the best. when i had my 79 i learned with that small engine it was all about fanese(spelling)
is it bad when you unplug the power wire from your stereo and it still plays

brainlessfool

don't do a body lift unless you have to (not for 33's!) I have 33's on my 83 with about 3" of spring lift. clears just fine!
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

thebigl2005

right on. So what about the brakes, the ifs calipers and master cylinder with land cruiser rotors? does anyone think it is really that worth it?

brainlessfool

Yes it is I put fj40 rotors on with 90 V6 truck cals.
I whent a step ferther and put 90 V6 rears on my 83 too. the drums had to have speicel spacers made.
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

thebigl2005

See I heard that I should take an ifs rear axle and swap it out with mine cause its stronger and would give me 2 more inches. And what were the special spacers like?

Also took a look at my brakes, aren't 83 supposed to have singe piston? well mine have two, so i am wondering how that fits on the rotor?

brainlessfool

A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

Bob Garrett

The 83 has 2 pistons, one is smaller than the other. The ones from the V6 trucks had 2 large pistons. The ones on the 4cyl IFS trucks use the same size piston, but have a wider gap to accomodate a vented rotor.

Bob
Bob Garrett
95 FZJ80
83 Mini Truck

thebigl2005

pinionye:) see.

One more quick question, different subject. I have this leak coming from my pinion seal, or so I thought. So when I dropped the driveline I saw that huge nut that holds down the yoke and pinioin. There looks to be a chunk missing from it, kinda like a moon size on one of the six sides, and it also looks like a piece form the (I don't know if its the yoke  :dunno: ) is also missing in the same spot as the nuts chunk. Does anyone have any idea about what it is?

Toyminator

Quote from: thebigl2005 on August 08, 2005, 12:07:57 PM
pinionye:) see.

One more quick question, different subject. I have this leak coming from my pinion seal, or so I thought. So when I dropped the driveline I saw that huge nut that holds down the yoke and pinioin. There looks to be a chunk missing from it, kinda like a moon size on one of the six sides, and it also looks like a piece form the (I don't know if its the yoke  :dunno: ) is also missing in the same spot as the nuts chunk. Does anyone have any idea about what it is?

The pinion nut is "staked" to keep it from backing off. A punch or chisel is used to put a notch in it. That's normal.

79coyotefrg

Quote from: Bob Garrett on August 08, 2005, 10:13:23 AM
The 83 has 2 pistons, one is smaller than the other. The ones from the V6 trucks had 2 large pistons. The ones on the 4cyl IFS trucks use the same size piston, but have a wider gap to accomodate a vented rotor.

Bob
ok,  now somebody tell me what calipers i have,  my front axle was actually assembled in 78,  according to the bell castings,  and my front calipers have 4 pistons,  my pads are like 2"x5" with 2 holes for the little pins to hold them in place,  i say this because in the past when i go to but new pads i always get these smaller pads with one pin hole
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Bob Garrett

Those sound like the factory calipers for a 1st gen truck.

Are you buying Toy pads or aftermarket? I think that all the 1st & 2nd gen trucks used the same pad.

Bob
Bob Garrett
95 FZJ80
83 Mini Truck

79coyotefrg

napa,  theyve been on there a long time and still look new
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

thebigl2005

OK, so not to change the subject but, does anyone have any good pics of there re mounted Chevy rear springs? And also what does re adjusting the angle on the shackels do?

yotaboy79

you dont need to lift it to fit 33's i had 33x14.00x15 boggers on my first gen when it was still stock no finder trimming

thebigl2005

OK, well when I put rears up front will my shackles work that I have on my fronts right now?

yotaboy79

no they will hit the frame i would suggest a shackle thats 5.5 inches eye to eye thats what im running and i know alot of people running that length and they all seem happy with it :beerchug:

hudlenutz

Refering to the comment about body lifts and C 'o G.  Consider a 2" body lift and a 2" spring & shackle lift...

The body lift only lifts the body, and allows for the desired 33s in question.  The center of gravity is a little higher.

The spring & shackle lift not only raises the body 2", but it also raises the entire chassis, resulting in a final center of gravity that is much higher than just the body lift alone.

I'm not necessarily advocating the use of a body lift, but I'm saying they have a purpose.  If the goal is just to fit the tires, the BL will do just that, and keep a relatively low center of gravity, for less money and work.  The spring lift has some other pros/cons that should be considered.  The cg will be higher than the body lift, but belly clearance is increased (better breakover angle), and depending on the springs/shackles used, flex can be increased.

I'd say if you want it to feel like the same truck, and it's a DD, do the body lift.  If the truck sees more trail, or you're willing to put up with the road manners associated with more flex and a higher center of gravity, go springs, heck do both and go 35s!

my .02

hudlenutz

I'm thinkin' shackle angle is closely associated with ride quality.  The more vertical your shackles are, the more energy is transfered into the chassis ( = rough ride).  On the other hand, you don't want to bottom your shackles out on the frame when the tire's at full compression, limiting your flex.  A long vertical shackle will also 'move' the axle backwards while it pivots under compression(?).  With a flatter angle, there's less induced steer with your suspension flex.

Check out 4crawler.com, Roger Brown's page on this one.  He's got a lot of info on shackles.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml#Introduction


I'm still a noob on this stuff, so if a buch of people throw angry posts after this... well, you know...  :_oops:

thebigl2005

Right on thanks, but i have been thinkin about going with just a Marlin Crawler kit. I have heard they kick a$$, but I wont get the inch or so movement of my front axle with out putting the rears up front.

Also another question, what about putting a different rear axle in my 83, like some one told me an 87 ifs. They said it was stronger and would push my tires out two inches, any one heard of that or thinks is a good idea?

RustyToy

remember that if you put rears up front your gonna have to put cross over steeeeerin....  !!
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