Aluminum Lift Block Question

Started by blackdiamond, May 31, 2005, 03:38:51 PM

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blackdiamond

I read on another thread that aluminum lift blocks split under load?  Is this a common problem?  Does this apply to solid aluminum blocks?

I have 1.5" solid aluminum blocks ready to be installed on my truck.   :help:
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

seanc

just get steel ones, cheap insurance
You win some, you lose some.

notajeep

I have broke a set in moab this year and I have a friend that broke a set too.  But they were both the hollow autozone style.  I would think that solid ones would be just fine.  :thumbs:
You have a Jeep?  That's cute.... So does Barbi.

blackdiamond

I could understand the local autoparts style blocks having problems due to a cheap design.  I know that steel wheels bend and aluminum wheel crack, so I would expect that the same would apply to blocks given enough of an impact load but I doubt that a solid lift block would cause a problem.

Waiting for more opinions.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

oddball

I try to stay away from blocks but I think a solid block would be fine, the hollow autozone/pepboys blocks are just for showboaters and not designed for real "offroad use"
2008 Tacoma regular cab, 4.88s, ARBs, crawl box, manual shift FJ case

Anthony

Blocks and spring wrap go hand in hand.

BirdDog

I called A.O.R about 10 days ago to order their 1' aluminum pucks and they were out. So I went to a local metal shop and bought a bar of 6061 T6 Aluminum and had my own made. I pulled out a set of hollow plastic 3" pucks from 4/w Parts Wholesalers that I have wheeled on for 8 years with no problem.
When I wheel I go Beverly Hillbilly  Style. 4runner loaded to the max. Cargo thing on top loaded to the max. And a trailer fully loaded . So I dont think the aluminum ones will be any problem.
What grade of aluminum pucks do you have ?

shad

#7
Try Roger Brown http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml

He sells lift blocks and angle shims for yota's even tapered billet aluminium lift blocks.

86 Toyota 4 runner
22re screaming on 4.56's rolling 35's
My cardomain page

blackdiamond

I got mine from Roger Brown.  I'm not positive if mine are billet or not, but I would guess that they are.  :sneeze:
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

BirdDog

Sorry Blackdiamond I guess I need to slow down and read . Not body lift, lift blocks.
:_oops:  :slap:

mr4x42u

If you have the solid blocks from rodger brown then ease you rworries..however do keep those u-bolts tight..If you wanted to be way slick about it have a shop weld on a u-bolt keeper plate..that way they can't spit out..
Forgiveness is between them and god..
Its my job to arrange the meeting!

blackdiamond

Quote from: birddog on June 01, 2005, 10:29:24 PM
Sorry Blackdiamond I guess I need to slow down and read . Not body lift, lift blocks.
:_oops: :slap:


All is forgiven
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

Quote from: mr4x42u on June 02, 2005, 05:58:46 AM
If you have the solid blocks from rodger brown then ease you rworries..however do keep those u-bolts tight..If you wanted to be way slick about it have a shop weld on a u-bolt keeper plate..that way they can't spit out..

Roger Brown assured me that I could set a 747 on the blocks if I could get it to balance.  I guess this means that my question is answered and nobody even tried to hijack the thread.

What shall be talk about now?
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

bjwest

best for me 3in square stock welded to perch and pined to springs