Clutch Install

[Poowoo]

Hey guys, I just bought an 88 4Runner 22re, the clutch is weak and I am wanting to replace it,  how difficult is it to install a new clutch and is it worth it, or should I take it to a mechanic. I am sure that it would be much more cost effective to do it myself, but I want to know if it is extremely difficult or what. HELP! 

[BigMike]

Read the following post: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4001.msg33584#msg33584

Good thing I don't have to write that out again sheesh

Steps 1 - 13 apply for a Clutch Job. Step 13 has the transmission/tcase removed. Now all you have to do is remove the 6 12mm Pressure plate bolts and the clutch is yours. Resurfacing the flywheel would be a good idea, and make sure you use some kind of degreaser, like Brake Spray on the flywheel and pressure plate friction surfaces to remove any oil residue. Clutch Alignment tools are handy and can save you some time having the clutch disk aligned properly.

Good luck
BigMike

[guywithuglyyota]

Very Easy Operation. But it does take some effort.

1. remove drive shafts

2. support trans and t case ( no need to sepperate if properly supported)  - remove crossmember

3. Unbolt trans from engine I believe 6 bolts total, the top two can be a pain, just use a long extension and a universal. Unplug speedo cable, 4wd light cable/reverse light cable

4. unbolt and remove starter, the nut on the stud can be a pain, just use a long extension/universal coming in from the front of the engine under the intake manifold.
  Unbolt the slave cylinder and carefully lay aside, and dont let the cylinder fall apart.
5. Carefully pull trans out from engine, may take a bit of effort.  Remove flywheel/Have flywheel turned. removing the bolts can be hard if you dont have an impact wrench, just put a breaker bar or large ratchett on the balancer bolt on front of engine to keep engine from turning.If using marlins clutch have stepped .026

6. install new clutch and flywheel with NEW pilot bearing and NEW throwout bearing. I highly recommend a torque wrench with the flywheel bolts and some loctite.
The new clutch kit should come with a plastic alignment tool to line up the clutch disk, install spring plate, remove plastic tool. Double check all the bolts for tightness, etc...
Its a good Idea to bleed the clutch afterwards if there was fluid loss.

Its a straightforeward operation, no need to drain anything. Put it this way, you will end up saving yourelf about $350 and you will have the satisfaction that you did it yourself and did it right.  A factory service manual is a mans Best freind, pretty spendy but well worth it.  

[guywithuglyyota]

Thanks Mike!       Im bored anyway!     

[donkeykong]

Make sure to Torque the flywheel bolt and maybe use some locktite...if those come loose the engine will sheer the heads off and you will have a flywheel and clutch bouncing around inbetween the engine and tranny...It makes a god awfull sound and you are not going anywhere.  I know this from experience

[Poowoo]

Thanks guys, I am still trying to figure out what to do at this point, thanks for all the input! Keep it comin please lol.

[awhotrods]

if you can get a buddy to help, do it yourself.  Its kind of hard to wrestle a tranny+t-case by yourself.

[guywithuglyyota]

if you can get a buddy to help, do it yourself.  Its kind of hard to wrestle a tranny+t-case by yourself.

Hes right, I was a big dummy and dropped my old l-43-tcase combo on my leg! Needless to say I invented a few swear words   

[Sluice Box Hero]

getting the tranny/xcase out is easy.

dont unbolt the tranny/xcase from the x-mamber at all, unbolt all 8 bolts on the x-member, bit leave 1 on each side barely hanging there.  then upbolr the 6 engine bolts as stated above.  then get under the tranny/xcase on you back, put your knees on the x-member, push up, quickely unthread those 2 x-member bolts, then grab a hold of the bellhousing, using your legs push the rear of the case left and right while pulling backward with your hands on the bellhousing, and it should slip right off the engine, then gently lower it onto yourself, then just push it off you to the side.  super easy, but make sure your knees are in a good place to be sturdy and not hurt yourself, they will be holding nearly all 150+lbs of the unit.

putting it back it is a pregnant dog, and you need some serious leg muscles, helps to be kind of a big guy too 200lbs+  6'+. . .you get the idea.  place the tranny under the truck about where it goes, then what you do is take a jack (nascar style one)  put it under the xcase (not the output, under the actual xcase)  then jack the thing as high as it will go while leaveing the bellhousing on the ground (dont worry, it will remain pretty steady resting on the flat part of the bellhousing), then when its as high as it will go you grab those 2 x-member bolts and slide yourself under the tranny (and x-member, as it shoudl still be attached) so that the xcase it resting on the jack still, and the bellhousing on your chest.  then place your knees as good as you can under the x-member again (usually wont be in quite as good spot as the time before just to spite you, and lift the bellhousing up, then push up with your knees and gelntly slid the input shaft through the clutch and into the alignment pins (trust me, you can tell when it goes in.)  then take one hand, still stableizing the tranny with the other, and put in your first x-mamber bolt, then vise verse for the other side, then then, before you go all crazy and crawl out from under that thing, go ahead and put a bellhousing bolt or two in there as well.

it may take you a fre tries lifting with your legs, but its doable, ive done it twice successfully, and as soon as my current clutch bites the bit ill be doing it again.

Callen