Author Topic: How to Pass Smog (Read 262767 times)

Pat · « **Reply #120 on:** Oct 01, 2007, 01:52:35 PM »

another thing I have found with the toyota 22re's( or most japanese efi engines) is when the readings for CO are more then about .08 then it is running rich.. it is well within the spec for what ever year your rig may be but these little efi motors will really do well when things are correct.. the latest one I had ran high co at low speed(still within limits).. I put a new o2 sensor in it as well as adjusted my air box.. I got the co down to almost .01 and it also picked up about 2 miles to the gallon over all....

Pat · « **Reply #121 on:** Oct 01, 2007, 01:56:50 PM »

one more thing, I think it has been touched here but make sure your valves are set correctly or even a tiny bit loose. By having your vavles set correctly will help keep your idle smooth.. thus reduceing the chance for any low speed testing issues.. I have also ran many engines on the infrared and found before and after oil change reading can be differant, also on the HC.. Not alot but in some cases enough to make a differance

Pat · « **Reply #122 on:** Oct 01, 2007, 02:02:35 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on Feb 24, 2003, 03:29:47 AM

Hey guys I just got my ride smoged and I wanted to share a few tips I did to improve my chances.

#.

#4. Raise your Idle as high as your automobile is allowed. The standard idle for Toy EFI for checking timing, as we all know, is 800RPM, but did you know that most Toyota EFI's are allowed to idle 800-1200 RPM for smog jobs? I put my engine at 1150. What this does is increases the amount of air coming in past the throttle body without the ECU knowing about it. On the technical side, EFI setups, the ECU does adjust the mixture pending results from the O2 sensor, but when the car is running at speed on the Dyno with the sniffer in the tailpipe, the ECU listens to the Throttle Position Switch to see an estimated amount of how much air is coming in the throttle body, but if you open the Idle Screw and allow more air to BYPASS the Throttle Body, then this will lean the mixture out just a hair because now more Air is coming in then the ECU knows about and the proper adjustments are not being made to richen up the mixture. Remember that under a constant load the ECU goes into a Loop mode and utilizes a rather limited set of variables. So this reduces emissions just a bit, but every bit counts, right?
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this right here is one of the most important things you can do to get you car or truck to smog.. it can make a huge differance on your smog results.. I know here in the part of CA I live we are not a enhanced area, so no dyno runs, Just a Idle test and running cruise test.. .. this is not nearly as important in enhanced ares.. Also it helps to keep the cat hot during the inbetween times of the test..

Goose · « **Reply #123 on:** Oct 01, 2007, 05:07:43 PM »

Good info Pat.
Theoretically speaking, an efi motor should pass even with a wasted cat.
But I highly doubt any of us are burning nearly that clean, and so new cat makes all the difference in the world...
It definetly helped me out. I also had a huge problem at idle, so when I passed, i had the thing idled up as high as you could, and the thermostat on my e-fan was tuned so my truck ran around 200 degrees... a bit hot, but it burned good and clean and passed with flying colors compared to the previous time.
Plus my truck seems to run alot better when its a bit warm, my theory is that it gets pissed off and takes its rage out on my tires...

... and u-joints...

I almost feel sorry for you guys with the stock and hopped up carbed and efi 4 bangers that are having trouble passing smog...
Its was a nightmare for me to pass smog, but thats over with and I at least got a rip-roarin truck to show for it..

Goose · « **Reply #124 on:** Oct 01, 2007, 05:08:25 PM »

By the way pat, what do you drive?
I happen to live in Oroville too

Pat · « **Reply #125 on:** Oct 01, 2007, 07:33:02 PM »

I know

.. I was speaking of the perfect world we should all live in.

.but it is the truth.. This is a great thread to help someone who is fighting their truck to get it to smog and might help them to pass.. I know I have had alot of cars that due to age, and condition ..have had a hard time passing..

I am driving a 86 4runner, a BIG dodge diesel, and a 06 nissan sentra.. not at the same time though: $Beer Chug\'n$

Duffil · « **Reply #126 on:** Oct 01, 2007, 07:36:10 PM »

just a heads up, (and I don't know where in CA other than stanislaus county this happen) but as of November 1st, a smog will include pressurization of the ENTIRE evap system via the fuel tank. it will have to hold X pressure for X amount of time.

Goose · « **Reply #127 on:** Oct 02, 2007, 11:42:17 PM »

Pat: yeah exactly.. its sad to think about it, but our 80-90's toyotas are starting to get old

I know this thread was a HUGE help to me when I was fighting the smog system and I'm sure they're plenty of others with older worse burning trucks that find the info in here a huge help.
Ill have to hit you up sometime, well go wheelin or something. Me and 86bobbedtoy are kinda building our own lil Oroville wheelin club. mostly just us and our buddies with yotas.. but hey, anyone local with a wheeler is welcome! your sellin your 86 arent you?

Duffil: ... Wonderful ... more :bull crap: to deal with

Pat · « **Reply #128 on:** Oct 03, 2007, 11:23:04 AM »

yea a snow run would be good here in a month or 2.. Nope not selling the 86 yet, sold the 88 and am parting out the 87 turbo though..

Goose · « **Reply #129 on:** Oct 03, 2007, 04:56:39 PM »

Ahhh right on

Oroville Toyotas Unite!

...Hehe
Snow runs coming soon.
We usually do 2 or 3 runs each winter... just depends on how many people wanna go, and the snow...
the more the merrier...

but, back on subject:

Smog Sucks!

Pat · « **Reply #130 on:** Oct 03, 2007, 05:38:32 PM »

Quote from: Goose on Oct 03, 2007, 04:56:39 PM

Ahhh right on Oroville Toyotas Unite!
...Hehe
Snow runs coming soon.
We usually do 2 or 3 runs each winter... just depends on how many people wanna go, and the snow...
the more the merrier...

I think smog checks are good, The only thing I don't like is it should only matter what comes out the tail Pipe

but, back on subject:

Smog Sucks!

Pat · « **Reply #131 on:** Oct 03, 2007, 05:39:23 PM »

I think smog checks are good, But it should only matter whats comes out the tail pipe

Jagdverband44 · « **Reply #132 on:** Oct 26, 2007, 12:48:38 PM »

my 82' just failed smog with a new cat, chev 91 with alcohol, timing 3 degrees retarded and tires filled to 40 psi.

It failed with a CO reading of 2.06 @ 15 ( max. 1.58 ) and 2.15 @ 25 (max. 1.38 ). Maybe a carb rebuild would do the trick?

Pat · « **Reply #133 on:** Oct 26, 2007, 02:11:39 PM »

hi co means you are running a little rich more then likely.. you need to look in that direction.. what causes you to run rich.. to much fuel, High float, air filter plugged? Jet backed out in bowl, mixture solinoid on to much? some ideas

Jagdverband44 · « **Reply #134 on:** Oct 27, 2007, 01:43:00 PM »

Thats got to be it then. I had an old 1970 mercedes 220 with this carb called a Stromburg and the thing got about 8-11mpg. I learned from a friend of mine that the jets in the Stromburg would stretch from years of gas flowing through them because they were made from super thin brass therefore ruining mileage. When I pulled the old thing apart, the main jet looked like a trumpet. I figured the same thing happed in the old Aisin, but that carb is another world compared to the old german carb and much more complex. Thanks for the input, I will check all of those.

Jagdverband44 · « **Reply #135 on:** Oct 27, 2007, 04:32:36 PM »

The truck also feels like it has absolutely no power, the thing will not pull up the slightest grade on the freeway without straining. The engine is fresh with about 10,000k, but it feels very tired and has been that way since I bought the thing a couple of years ago. Its agonizing to drive it during bay area rush hour cuz you get the bird a lot from commuters.

Duffil · « **Reply #136 on:** Oct 27, 2007, 10:31:31 PM »

Quote from: Blackmackerel82 on Oct 27, 2007, 04:32:36 PM

The truck also feels like it has absolutely no power, the thing will not pull up the slightest grade on the freeway without straining. The engine is fresh with about 10,000k, but it feels very tired and has been that way since I bought the thing a couple of years ago. Its agonizing to drive it during bay area rush hour cuz you get the bird a lot from commuters.

probably wasn't broken in right. rings didn't seat correctly+junk carb=no power

MiniSimp · « **Reply #137 on:** Nov 10, 2007, 06:11:19 PM »

Went for a test today for my 2001 Runner.
I get there and there is a car on the dynamometer getting tested.
Guy pulls my Runner up and stops just before the dynamometer and tests it.
Car after mine gets pulled on to the dynamometer.
Did the guy do me a favor?
Do they test worse on the dynamometer?

emsvitil · « **Reply #138 on:** Nov 10, 2007, 06:39:25 PM »

He may have thought it was full-time 4wd for some reason (which you can't test on a dyno)

Pat · « **Reply #139 on:** Nov 10, 2007, 08:24:23 PM »

Quote from: emsvitil on Nov 10, 2007, 06:39:25 PM

He may have thought it was full-time 4wd for some reason (which you can't test on a dyno)

X2

Goose · « **Reply #140 on:** Nov 12, 2007, 05:07:22 PM »

Quote from: emsvitil on Nov 10, 2007, 06:39:25 PM

He may have thought it was full-time 4wd for some reason (which you can't test on a dyno)

x3 You might have gotten a lucky break!

davidr34 · « **Reply #141 on:** Dec 29, 2007, 06:50:37 PM »

So i took the truck in today to get smoged.. It FAIDED.. Its failed the ideal test at 1050rpm 191 HC max allowed is 150 Everything else passed fine. I dont know what to do i ran 91 and read this whole thread. It has passed at the same station before. any help!?!?! I was thing just check everything and manybe mess is the timing, thank

Goose · « **Reply #142 on:** Jan 01, 2008, 12:59:09 PM »

was the motor hot or cold when you did the test?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #143 on:** Jan 01, 2008, 01:01:29 PM »

cant mess wit hthe timing too much... they actually check it... and it can throw otehr things out of whack....

have you done a tuneup? changed the oil? changed the filters oil and air, changed the pcv valve, seafoam?

Goose · « **Reply #144 on:** Jan 02, 2008, 10:59:06 AM »

seafoam??

Plekto · « **Reply #145 on:** Jan 04, 2008, 02:01:04 PM »

When they start getting near 200ppm or so, it's usually time for a replacement O2 sensor and if that doesn't work, a cat. That's assuming everything else is right and it's not got a burnt valve or something going on and spewing loads of carbon and semi-burnt fuel.

davidr34 · « **Reply #146 on:** Jan 04, 2008, 02:23:41 PM »

Yeah i just did the top end so it should be good. the timming is dead on but who know ill check it again tomorrow. It seem to be running a little hot. the truck sat for over an hour before they tested it so i would think it was cold.

Plekto · « **Reply #147 on:** Jan 04, 2008, 02:39:19 PM »

Ah. Yeah, you want it warm and it can't hurt to drop in a new O2 sensor. I find that in states where they use oxygenated gas, O2 sensors tend to fry every few years or get so out of whack that they barely work. A lot are cheap crud, too and just plain fail in a short time. This is why I just go out and get the $30 Bosch one at my local mom and pop auto parts store.

94runner · « **Reply #148 on:** Jan 25, 2008, 05:38:48 PM »

i took a pretest just to see if i'd pass.....

i didnt pass do to my timing being 25 BTDC, 10 is the limit. everything else is good

15 25
HC: meas : 43 max 88 meas: 30 max 53
CO: meas : .11 max .64 meas: .15 max .77
NO: meas : 218 max 508 meas: 138 max 761

any ideas? i'd love for somebody to just say that my timing was good and i'd be on my way. any ideas since i know when i adjust the timing 15 degrees the #'s will be WAY different

i know i have to adjust the timing, but what will be affected when i retard it by 15 degrees

Plekto · « **Reply #149 on:** Jan 27, 2008, 10:51:13 AM »

Set it to 10 and see how close you are. Post the info, of course.

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