Topic: Passenger inner tie rod rubbing frame, need some help [FIXED]

[taverekin]

Stock 1988 4runner. I replaced the idler arm about 5 months ago before taking it for alignment. I couldn't get my truck aligned anywhere because my tie rods were frozen and the ends worn. So I replaced the entire assembly on both sides, inner and outer ends and new sleeves.

After replacing the tie rods I noticed the memory was messed up after making right turns. Inspecting, I noticed the passenger side inner tie rod end is rubbing the frame. When I turn the steering wheel to the right, the tie rod end gets sandwiched between the frame and the center link. I have to turn the wheel to straight after making right turns because it gets a bit stuck.

It almost looks as if either the Idler arm is too long, pushing the center link back towards the frame, or the center link is bent. Neither of these seem likely since I didn't have the rubbing before replacing tie rods. I would post a picture but I haven't reached 11 posts yet. No luck with the search bar. I'm really stumped and so is the shop I took it to.

Edited for clarity.

[Snowtoy]

A bent idler arm will push the tie rod or the arm into thew frame.

[taverekin [OP]]

The idler arm is in perfect shape. I am totally stumped. After I hit 11 posts I'll put pictures up. I have brand new tires on it which I don't want to mess up. Would it be totally out of line to pound on the frame with a hammer til its dented out of the way? I know that doesn't fix the underlying issue but this is my daily driver and I don't want to ruin my tires.

[Snowtoy]

Use photobucket.com or similar picture/video host site, you upload your pic, then link it to your post.


You also have screen shot services VVCap, you download their software, take a pic of the pic o your screen,
then retrieve the image code.


With either type of site you aren't limited to a minimum post number to use pics in your post, nor limited to
maximum picture size as it doesn't consume more than text on the forum's server.

[taverekin [OP]]

Thank you. I went with photobucket. Here's a link:

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p378/taverekin/tie_rod_ee500e2e79ce776ef778395cc3f111eb5cdcc68d_zpsj18sroac.jpg

That's a quick one with my phone, I can provide more when I get off work. You can see some wear on the frame just above the tie rod end.

[Snowtoy]

Something is off, measure the length of the idler arm, it should be about 7-3/4" long.

[taverekin [OP]]

I measured the idler arm, I got  7 3/4". Any other suggestions? I'll be under the truck today replacing my sway bar links, I'll post more photos.
 

[emsvitil]

If that's a picture of the idler arm in the background,  it's bent.......

[taverekin [OP]]

I'm pretty sure you're seeing the center link there.

[emsvitil]

How are the suspension bushings?

Maybe the front tire shifted back......

[Willard]

Does the center link have equal bends on both sides?


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[taverekin [OP]]

Center link looks the same on both sides. The shop did say the bushings on my shocks are bad and need replaced. are the shocks replaced along with the bushings as a set? I may be able to afford to do that this weekend.

[Willard]

Shocks will not cause your axle to shift.


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[Snowtoy]

Center link looks the same on both sides. The shop did say the bushings on my shocks are bad and need replaced. are the shocks replaced along with the bushings as a set? I may be able to afford to do that this weekend.

The bushings that emsvitil is referring to are the upper and lower control(A-arm) bushings, when worn, they allow the control to move forward and back, commonly heard when taking off or coming to a stop, though shouldn't allow the tie rod to hit the frame.


When you installed the tie-rods, did you torque them to 67 ft lbs, or just tighten them until the cotter pin hole aligned with the castle nut?

What is the clearance on the driver's side?

Post a pic of the idler arm as well.

[taverekin [OP]]

thank you for the info, I will inspect the bushings you pointed out. I am in fact hearing an occasional mild click, clank sound on stop and start.

no torque wrench so I only tightened the castle nut until it felt stiff and the cotter pin lined up. Looks like I'm going tool shopping tomorrow.

clearance on the drivers side is normal, about 1/2" as you mentioned.

pics coming soon.

[taverekin [OP]]

Okay, I got some pictures and some insight. I jacked the truck up and took the front tires off. I put a straight edge along the IFS crossmember. Wheels straight, the straight edge runs into the rotor shield thing on the drivers side, but clears it on the passenger side. So the passenger wheel is set back in relation to the drivers side. The difference looks like it accounts for the lack of clearance where the inner tie rod end is rubbing the frame, about 1/2" to 3/4".

I noticed that the thing shielding the rotor on the passenger side is dinged. Perhaps the PO was in a minor accident? Doesn't look very significant and could be a coincidence, but here is a picture of that:

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p378/taverekin/20170414_102617_zpssp367vtm.jpg~original

Here is the idler arm, wheels and steering wheel straight:

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p378/taverekin/20170414_102032_zpsf1rttc5g.jpg~original

I inspected the control arm bushings, the top looks fine, the bottom is kinda hard to see. Am I just looking for cracks and deterioration? I took a pic. Here is the front bushing on the lower arm:

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p378/taverekin/20170414_102701_zpszvzitgzj.jpg~original

Here's a pic from the front of the tie rod:

http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p378/taverekin/20170414_104528_zpsxim4js9p.jpg~original

Another thing: I measured my ride height and there's about 1/2" difference. Top of rim to fender is 14" on the drivers side, 13.5" on the passenger side. I've never messed with the torsion bars.

[Willard]

Lol is your fuel tank full? Time to SAS!


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[Willard]

So starting from the beginning.....you did not have this issue until your replaced the front steering ends? If this is the case, did you perhaps install the center link backwards. Meaning the pass side on the d side? Do you have the old parts?


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[taverekin [OP]]

trust me I'd do the SAS if i could afford it!!

I only replaced the tie rods, both sides, entire assemblys. I never took the center link off. I have the old tie rod for the pass side, I saved it.

the fact I didn't have this issue before replacement is kinda the most puzzling part.

[taverekin [OP]]

I did the tie rods about 2 weeks ago, idler arm 5 months ago. issue started after tie rod replacement.

[Snowtoy]

It is as if the wrong length idler are was used when it was assembled or it is bolted into the wrong holes, not much else can push the tie-rod end back like that. 

Frame damage from an impact usually bends the frame on the back side of the tire, not the bumper side. 

As mentioned compare the thickness of the old tie-rods with the new ones, as well as the length of the old idler arm, also make sure the tie-rod end is fully seated in the steering relay rod, you could have several things working together creating an issue that wasn't there before.

For comparison, my '91 w/wheels straight

[taverekin [OP]]

I'll look into the idler arm, maybe if they have one at autozone they'll just let me do some measurements on it. Would the wrong idler arm push the whole hub back though? My old idler is long gone.

I've compared the old tie rod, the end has the same dimensions as the new one.

I'll try and get a tie rod puller this weekend and take the tie rod off and fiddle around.

[Snowtoy]

Outside of the steering relay rod being bent between the idler arm connection and the tie-rod, which it doesn't to be, or the idler arm in the wrong location, again doesn't look like it, the lentgh of the idler arm is the only other thing that I can think of that would push it back like that.

Some comparison measurements from my '91,
Outside of idler arm to frame,


Center of bolt to frame,


Length of idler arm outside edge to outside edge

[emsvitil]

Loosen the bolts on the idler arm.

Hopefully there's enough play in the holes that you can twist and shove it forward to get more clearance.


Or even enlarge the holes a little.

[taverekin [OP]]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

[taverekin [OP]]

Alright, I fixed it. I pulled the center link from my brother's parts truck and removed my center link and compared them. Turns out mine was bent slightly.