84 dodge crew cab build

[helipilot77]

Cool project. I love that body style. This is gonna be a great build. I would say keep it 2wd dually if your going to use it to tow. Dually is super wide for daily driving though. 

[redneckcustoms13]

Only reason I'm thinking to keep it 2wd is for the ride quality of the coil suspension. The leaf springs the 4wd of this era used are horrible and ride worse than a 1st gen Toyota sitting on the bump stops. I'm thinking stay dually as well for the stability of towing. I have 2 more dually and 1 single wheel and can definitely tell a difference in them when towing. Only thing I'm going to hate is the gear ratio. I don't have any 3.54 gears laying around and thisnone being 4.10 it's going to be singing on the highway. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a d80 with 3.54.

[helipilot77]

What trans are you going to use? NV4500?

[redneckcustoms13]

Speaking of nv4500. Yes that is what I'm running with a valair 450hp rated single disk. The nv and getrag use the same style master cyl except the 2nd gen rod from pedal to master cyl is longer so I will either find one from a 1st gen or cut a 2nd gen down. This was yesterdays after work project before the ball game.
The auto trucks and manual trucks differ in the fact that the harness plug is 1" closer to fender on manual. I cut out the piece from a donor truck as well as got the pedals and master cyl mounting bracket. Used the cut piece of firewall to use as a template.





The piece with 4 holes in it between the pedals is the what I will have to drill into mine. I will use that to make a template and then fight getting under there to drill it and mount the master cyl bracket and hang pedals.

[redneckcustoms13]

12v is out of the Chevrolet.

[redneckcustoms13]

Decided to make a template so I dont fork up drilling the seemingly impossible clutch master cylinder bracket. Used stainless so the bit wouldn't walk and mess up.

[redneckcustoms13]

Got home about 3:30 and got started on the drilling of the dash support to mount the master cylinder bracket.
The template worked like a charm.





The hole I had to go through.


The $53 secret weapon.


The bracket finally mounted. I was so happy to have that out of the way. I honestly was dreading this part. It went quite simple actually with the use of those 2 weapons.



Now when I got to removing the existing brake pedal rod. I swear I invented new words. I dont believe I have been that angry in a very very long time. It took over 2 hours to get the thing out of the pedal. There is hardly any room to work. The rod was rusty and wouldn't go through the bushings in the pedal. I kept working it around with zep45 and prying with various object. Finally the thing came out. Hands all cut up and mad beyond explanation I best the rod with a 16lb sledge hammer. Took the torch and melted it to a pile of molten mess.
Returned to the truck and hung the new pedals.


Concerned at whether or not I had tacked the 5th gear nut 3 years ago when I built the Chevrolet I tore it down to check. Good find...


Washed the engine and trans. Cut all the old exhaust off and washed the engine bay.

[helipilot77]

There are tack welds on the output shaft nut?

[redneckcustoms13]

Yes. Nv4500 is notorious for the 5th gear nut backing off. They came out with a "fix" nut that has 3 set screws. That piece of garbage cost me $1500 when it came apart and the set screws get into the gears when towing. The best fix is to put 3 tack welds on it and let it eat. It's not hard to cut them loose if you ever rebuild the transmission later.

[redneckcustoms13]

Before rain moved in I wanted to get it sat in there. Well that was attempted 5 ways but not happening with trans on. So snatched it off and get the engine sat in as the rain rolled in right on top of Gordon and myself. Got it sat on the mounts and bolted down tight. Called it a day.


Aggravating box of gears...

[redneckcustoms13]

Stabbed the trans in yesterday after work with help from my friend Gordon. Once he left I tried 3 different 1st gen dodge cross members. None were going to work without some serious surgery.  I looked through the scrap piles and found the tongue of a ditch witch trailer from work that had been bent. It is 1.5"x4" .25" wall tubing. I cut it to 36" long and laid it out to where I could use one existing hole in the frame on each side. I then drilled those along with 2 more for a total of 4 bolts holding it to the frame that is all the factory had on some cheesy stamped steel so it should be fine. I was going to use an nv4500 mount but it was still too high. I ended up going with an energy poly mount for a GM th400. Had to cut the top to allow it to set down inside the tube. I will post pictures of this later. It should be just fine. It's much heavier than factory styles and uses the same amount of fasteners. Removed all bolts from the center bearings and sat it down on it's own weight for the first time. To my surprise it only sits 7/8" lower in the front than it did with the 360. Flushed the heater core with the hose a few times and replaced the water pump with nothing but OEM cummins. Had to call it quits for a while and do family stuff.

[redneckcustoms13]

Headed home with intercooler style core support from 92-93 truck. And also a throttle cable because the tractor didnt know it was still connected when removing the engine.

[redneckcustoms13]

Got throttle cable on. Put 10 gal of fuel in tank. Used an electric limp to help prime it. Fired up and left it run about 10 seconds and called it a night. Too dark to play anyhow.

[redneckcustoms13]

When my cousin installed the denny t AFC delete he had the throttle arm a tooth off and idle screw half way backed out. I corrected that tonight and got it idling properly. Steering box is leaking. Got to see if it's a seal i can easily replace or if it will need a complete rebuild. Got the driveshaft out and marked for the driveline shop to shorten tomorrow as well.

[redneckcustoms13]

92 core support in and hood back on. Needs a little adjusting to get lines right. New radiator should be in soon. Drive shaft Friday, clutch hydraulics tomorrow. Maybe a shakedown run Saturday if all goes well.

[redneckcustoms13]

Parts woman messed up radiator order so it dodmt make it. Should be Monday. Driveshaft builder had a family emergency this morning and had to tend to that. My weekend plans were basically shot with those 2 items missing.

New clutch hydraulics arrived today. Went to get them from my cousin, he warrantied them at parts house becausea he bought them and never used them yet still went bad. I got them and asked about some missing hose clamps and v band clamps missing from the turbo piping. I went to where they were and found the factory air box, all of the clamps, various bits of core support stuff, shift boot, correct fan shroud, old ac lines that need replacing but will show me what to build since they are not available anywhere.

Got home, put the crappy radiator in. New temp sender due to the old one being cracked upon install. Put the intercooler, piping, and ac condenser in. Called it an evening. Lots of figuring out on what the truck has no blower motor, no brake lights, no running lights, no turn signals, no instrument cluster lighting. Why I cant tey power out of the start relay. 

[redneckcustoms13]

I'm on the way to recovery on the wiring of lights it appears someone swapped in a newer column. The harnesses are different. I found the 8 wires that go to the lighting unplugged completely. Called my buddy in Mississippi hes got one he said I could have. Even better, my other buddy from gulf shores is over there right now picking up a frame so hes going to bring it back with him. 

[redneckcustoms13]

I put that column in. It was 3" too long. But the plugs were correct. The ignition switch was all jacked up. I took all of it apart and made the switch correct. The turn signal switch appears to be working correctly. I put my old column back in. Put that ignition and turn signal switch in. It appears I have some bulbs out on the cab lights, and maybe left brake/turn/running. But I believe the column is good.

[helipilot77]

you seem to be making steady progress. I applaud you sir. 

[redneckcustoms13]

Had a cold front come in last night so I wasn't going on the river today. I spent all day from 8 am to 7:30 PM working in this thing. The column is back together and working properly. Replaced every bulb and lots of cleaning grounds and housings to get every light on the truck working. All gauge cluster lights replaced and cleaned gauge cluster. Replaced blower motor since the old one was drawing over 45 amps at start up and 18 while running on high. New one draws 9 at start up and 5 on high. With that blowing I dissected the entire vacuum system of the HVAC and still cant get the air to blow on the windshield or floor without manually actuating the doors by hand. I can put vacuum on them and they work. I have vacuum coming to the control head but it obviously isnt working properly. I vacuumed all leaves and junk out of the box and still nothing. Had enough of that and got back on lighting.

[redneckcustoms13]

Driveshaft finally finished. Got it after work. Went home and installed it along with a new seal on trans output. Aired up all tires to proper pressure. Gordon and I took off for the fuel station. Going to be replacing all feint brake components and the old crusty master cylinder. Rear seem to be fine. As I plan to build a different rear axle I'm not fooling with it other than adjusting shoes and bleeding after new master cylinder.

First impression. 4.10 GEARS WITH 30" TIRES SUCKS!!!!!!! Cruising at 45 in 5th gear. Ofcourse it will go as fast as you like if you mash the pedal. But not cruise nicely around 17-1800 where it gets good fuel numbers. All of this was expected so I'm not upset in any way. These rear axles seem to be bringing decent money so I can sell it and recoup a little of the 14 bolt build.

You may wonder why I plan to do 14 bolt. I have always liked crew cab duallys low to the earth. I do not particularly want to make this truck 4wd at this time. The d70hd that is in it now is not a bad axle. The best ratio gear I can find to fit in this housing is 3.54. I built a d80 for my other tow rig using g2 3.54 gears and have loved it. However it is on 35" tires. The largest I will see this getting is 33" tires. 3.54 just wont be high enough for modern interstate speeds while getting good fuel economy. There were some dodges made with a special d70 that was 3.07 but they are very hard to find for less than $1000 and they are a different housing and carrier.

Therefore I look toward a 14bolt. Same 72" wide was. Larger ring gear, 3 bearing pinion, available in 3.21 gear. I will look for one with 3.21 but doubt I'll find it. I can get a dually limited slip 3.73-4.10 14bolt from u pull it for $150. Build it with new 3.21 gears and roll out for less than $500 in the whole thing. 

[Mudder]

Going with hydroboost or does the truck already have it?

[redneckcustoms13]

Absolutely not,  hell no, never, and any other word you can think of to Express my absolute hatred for hydroboost. I have faught that garbage on my 98 since I got it over 10 years ago. They leake, the seals go bad and bypass, the stupid ps pump dodge used isnt strong enough to push enough fluid to turn while idling and holding the brakes. That really sucks when backing a loaded 40' trailer up a hill. So no sir. I will keep the vacuum diaphragm brake booster and going with a normal d350 master cylinder and pads/rotors/calipers with normal d350 stuff. I hate hydroboost. 

[redneckcustoms13]

I 98% expected the clutch pedal to be too low to the floor with the 2nd gen hydraulic set up and one installed I was correct in the assumption. I searched the interweb to all ends to find the length of the rod on a 1st gen master cylinder to no avail. I had a spare 2nd gen rod so I cut it in half. Measured it and it's just at 1/4" so I put it in a vice and threaded both halves. Got a 1/4-20 coupling nut and backed it up on both ends with a regular nut. Got home pulled the rod off the pedal and moved the pedal where I liked it and compared to the rod. Removed master cyl and rod. Adjusted new rod to desired length. Put it all together and the clutch is GREAT! It is a valair single disk. Smooth as silk compared to the dual disk in my 98. I took a little 20 mile ride in it today. I need to do brakes but it's just so fun to ride around in. It rides so smooth and comfy. Have to button up the wiring under hood and put it all in loom. Get new ac lines built and we should be in business.

[redneckcustoms13]

All new front brake parts will be at oreillys on my way home I'll gather them up and go have fun. Not looking forward to it but it's all part of the job.

[helipilot77]

Time for a video?

[redneckcustoms13]

I'll take one when I get the brakes done of driving down the road. The master cylinder was wrong(imagine that). The rotor swap wasn't as bad as expected. Went fairly smooth. The calipers and pads went nicely except the drivers caliper had jacked up threads for the banjo bolt. Repaired those and washed up all the dirty mess. The backing plates are galvanized. Found that pretty cool. I'll wash more this evening while the sun is out. Replace away bar link bushings as well.

[redneckcustoms13]

Wiper arms are apparently unavailable for these trucks. Research in other forums says that 1985 f150 has the same spline and length arm. So I just had my parts lady get a pair of them and the correct master cylinder. I painted it so it doesn't rust up like the old one.

[redneckcustoms13]

New master cyl on. Think it's all bled. Booster wasn't happy so i grabbed one from the parts truck. Got it all swapped. It's better but I still think I have some air in the lines. I took a short video driving but it wasn't really worth a flip.

[redneckcustoms13]

New tires up front. Hoping my cousin still has the 4 new he bought for the white truck and never mounted.