Author Topic: #turdburglar (Read 20719 times)

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #60 on:** Feb 22, 2021, 09:29:11 AM »

Starting to burn everything in. Cut the hoops and crossover out to bench weld, as well as the passenger frame side mount so I could access to the upper link mount. Starting under the chassis and working my way forward and will finish with the axle. Using Steel-It for painting everything. Things I have learned so far:
1. I'm not a robot welder like everyone on IG seems to be
2. Maintaining proper torch angle around a tube or circle is challenging
3. While MIG welding is "fast", I need to find some patience and not rush this stage of the build

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #61 on:** Feb 23, 2021, 07:40:07 AM »

Not done but a good chunk of the frame plates burned in. Hoping to get this wrapped up in the next evening or two. Once the frame plates are fully welded, I will get the shock hoops back in and get the frame painted. After that the motor and trans should be going back in for the last time. No shortage of little details to figure out still.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #62 on:** Feb 25, 2021, 10:57:25 AM »

Well everything is burned in. Some areas are more aesthetically pleasing than others but everything feels very stout. Depending on the bumper situation i may add some kickers from the front side of the hoops to the bumper to reduce the potential shock hoop flex left to right. Driver side bump can appears to have warped a bit despite having a tube in place during welding. Hoping i can track down a barrel sander down to shave some material out. I can certainly persuade it in there with a floor jack but I'm afraid it will never come out. going to wire brush mask off and acetone everything for a coat of Steel-it. Welding the axle and links will take place in between coats. Hoping to get the motor set back in before the weekend so i can start reconnecting electrical connections and figuring out a plan for routing lines for the hydraulic steering.

LittleSteve · « **Reply #63 on:** Feb 25, 2021, 11:43:37 AM »

I'm liking the frame extensions, giving me ideas you are. I politely ask you to stop

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #64 on:** Feb 26, 2021, 06:01:15 AM »

AMAZING FABRICATION!!

Gnarls.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #65 on:** Mar 01, 2021, 08:26:59 AM »

All Painted up and got the motor set back in. Steel It is a pretty awesome product, been very happy with the coverage. Goal is to get the transmission mated up tonight and then get the links welded up to free some space on the bench to set the axle on for disassembly and welding. Been putting a plan together for brake lines. Currently looking at running hard line from the master cylinder to frame near the orbital, soft line bundled with the hydraulic lines down to the axle, hard line to each inner C with soft line to each caliper. Considered running it on the upper link but it seems like a lot of extra length to run brake line for no added benefit.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #66 on:** Mar 18, 2021, 02:16:13 PM »

Finished welding the axle over the weekend, got the brake lines bent up, studs for the loop clamps in place and got everything painted. Hoping to have the axle assembled and back on its own weight under the truck by this weekend. Then the plumbing and wiring party begins.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #67 on:** Mar 22, 2021, 09:14:14 AM »

after a year of living on jack stands, she is officially back on her own weight. made a new tie rod to mount in the stock location and relocated the ram. I'd say its in a significantly improved. engine wiring is all back together but still need to build a mount for my fuel tank in the bed before she can be running again. tons of miscellaneous

to take care of but im excited to have it on the ground again.

cbeers · « **Reply #68 on:** Mar 22, 2021, 09:50:58 AM »

big day!

cheers to all of your hard work and attention to detail $Beer Chug\'n$

CB

LittleSteve · « **Reply #69 on:** Mar 22, 2021, 12:36:55 PM »

YEAH!

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #70 on:** Mar 29, 2021, 08:45:12 AM »

Getting more of the details buttoned up.
-Steering system is plumbed and ready for fluid, just waiting on a new belt for the pump which should be arriving today.
-Brake lines and ARB line are routed up the link to the frame, still need to decided where the ARB compressor is going to live long term. Got the incorrect sized banjo fitting on my brake lines from the axle to the caliper, that will be remade today at Royal Brass.
-Clutch lines have been re worked and clutch is bled. Need to get the coolant lines reconnected with the port for the sending unit.
-Driveline is getting dropped off at South Bay Driveline today.
- Still trying to figure out what I want to do with my fuel tank. I got about halfway through making a mount for it in the bed but didn't like how it was coming out so im back at the drawing board for that one. Non zero chance it ends up back in the stock location for the time being until I figure out some sort of fuel cell route that I can still pass smog with.
Hoping that I'll be firing her up by the end of this week.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #71 on:** Apr 03, 2021, 10:37:39 PM »

Having some issues getting this thing to fire up. Getting clicking of the circuit opening relay and can hear fuel pump going and the starter relay clicks but I’m not getting any cranking at the starter. I can jump the starter and it cranks but I can not get the truck to run while doing this. Found a number of threads on various forums of this being fairly common, especially in 86-88 22re pick ups.

everything is connected as it was prior to pulling the motor, dash lights, etc all come on as expected it just won’t start. There are some folks who swear by running a hot shot kit to bypass the factory starter relay and use it only to provide the signal for a relay that brings 13v to the starter solenoid direct from the battery.

My concern is that when jumping the starter I feel as if it should run. It not running leads me to believe that whatever is causing there not to be power at the starter solenoid is also preventing it from running.

Going to try verifying all the grounds are good and clean, and all connections are tight once again in addition the this bypassed relay.

Wainiha · « **Reply #72 on:** Apr 03, 2021, 11:36:01 PM »

wow! Maybe if I move out the flood and tsunami zone I could set up an area and ATTEMPT to build something like you

LittleSteve · « **Reply #73 on:** Apr 04, 2021, 10:19:26 AM »

Quote from: seebrookmeyer on Apr 03, 2021, 10:37:39 PM

Having some issues getting this thing to fire up. Getting clicking of the circuit opening relay and can hear fuel pump going and the starter relay clicks but I’m not getting any cranking at the starter. I can jump the starter and it cranks but I can not get the truck to run while doing this. Found a number of threads on various forums of this being fairly common, especially in 86-88 22re pick ups.

everything is connected as it was prior to pulling the motor, dash lights, etc all come on as expected it just won’t start. There are some folks who swear by running a hot shot kit to bypass the factory starter relay and use it only to provide the signal for a relay that brings 13v to the starter solenoid direct from the battery.

My concern is that when jumping the starter I feel as if it should run. It not running leads me to believe that whatever is causing there not to be power at the starter solenoid is also preventing it from running.

Going to try verifying all the grounds are good and clean, and all connections are tight once again in addition the this bypassed relay.

I wouldn't worry to much about the bypass.
It worked before so as such, it should work now.

More than likely something you have missed on the earthing side.
Check the starter trigger from the key to the starter itself.
Check that the start trigger doesn't come from the ECU, if it does, check that.
Check for spark, that will prove the ecu is awake and the coil is working.

If all else fails have you considered threatening it with a stick?

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #74 on:** Apr 06, 2021, 07:58:08 AM »

Quote from: LittleSteve on Apr 04, 2021, 10:19:26 AM

I wouldn't worry to much about the bypass.
It worked before so as such, it should work now.

More than likely something you have missed on the earthing side.
Check the starter trigger from the key to the starter itself.
Check that the start trigger doesn't come from the ECU, if it does, check that.
Check for spark, that will prove the ecu is awake and the coil is working.

If all else fails have you considered threatening it with a stick?

I went through and re grounded all my connections, replaced the lead from the starter to the positive post on the battery, disconnected and reconnected everything. Still no dice. The frustrating part is I dont know why I know longer have 12V here if it worked prior to the motor removal. I did not touch the ignition or connectors for the starter relay itself as part of the removal but clearly something is affecting its functionality.

I found a pretty good thread in yota-tech that goes into pretty good detail about the flaw and remedy. I do not have 12V at pin 4 of this connector as described here and confirmed with the service manual I have. (again, I dont know why this would have changed but I dont have power) Given that I dont have power at pin 4, I do not have power at the black and white wire at pin 2, which also supplies power to the EFI computer, aka no spark. I'm going to give this a remedy a try tonight and see what happens. In other news, im picking up my new front driveline today from Southbay driveline so assuming I can get it running I may be able to get her moving on her own in the not so distant future.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #75 on:** Apr 06, 2021, 09:56:31 PM »

Turns out I’ve proven yet again, I’m pretty much a moron. Would recommend connecting all 5 connectors at the passenger kick panel. Significantly improved outcome.

it’s on to the fun stuff between now and the end of the month before I hit the road for sand hollow.

Willard · « **Reply #76 on:** Apr 07, 2021, 07:16:30 AM »

Quote from: seebrookmeyer on Apr 06, 2021, 09:56:31 PM

Turns out I’ve proven yet again, I’m pretty much a moron. Would recommend connecting all 5 connectors at the passenger kick panel. Significantly improved outcome.

it’s on to the fun stuff between now and the end of the month before I hit the road for sand hollow.

Have you cycled with the driveshaft on? Angle looks steep, could just be the pic though.

LittleSteve · « **Reply #77 on:** Apr 07, 2021, 11:51:40 AM »

Quote from: seebrookmeyer on Apr 06, 2021, 09:56:31 PM

Turns out I’ve proven yet again, I’m pretty much a moron. Would recommend connecting all 5 connectors at the passenger kick panel. Significantly improved outcome.

it’s on to the fun stuff between now and the end of the month before I hit the road for sand hollow.

At least you wont need to thrash it with a stick

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #78 on:** Apr 15, 2021, 09:49:17 PM »

Fairly useless update but getting down to the final details.
electric fan is wired. Ugly driveshaft is in. JDM intake is in. made a little switch panel, temporarily permanent. Long term plan is to pull the dash and clear out most of the under dash components and build a nice aftermarket harness and fuse panel. ARB compressor and front locker are operational. now that all the make it run "well" items are handled, im shifting to the nice to have list. building my winch mount tonight, rest of the tube work for the bumper will come after the trip. Hoping to get some rock lights and forward facing lights installed

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #79 on:** Apr 19, 2021, 11:19:05 AM »

Drove it Saturday for the first time since KOH 2019. Didn't burn down to the ground so I'll take that as a win. Suspension, steering and brakes all felt great on the road up to a bout 20-25 MPH. Makes me wish the rear wasn't spooled so it would be a little more road friendly. Plenty of little odds and ends to button up but if I had to load it on the trailer today I could.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #80 on:** May 04, 2021, 06:47:57 PM »

Truck made it back from Sand Hollow in one piece. It was the shakedown run of shakedown runs. Things started off pretty eventful as power steering fluid from the overflow was dripping onto the header and oil was getting sucked through the PCV and creating some pretty cool visual effects. Fought cooling issues for the bulk of Thursday and Friday, replaced the radiator cap Saturday morning and that seems to have resolved any of the cooling problems. We bypassed the PCV and the smoke show stopped but I fought fuel related issues for the remainder of the trip. Turns out going "fast" burns way more fuel than crawler through the sierras. The vent line from the tank was sucking fuel in through the charcoal canister due to the new location of the tank and the pickup was struggling to get fuel to the motor on steep climbs. I have maintained all the smog equipment so I can keep this plated but im starting to lean towards just going with a green sticker.

I was constantly having to check the diff cover bolts this weekend. having the ram mounted off the cover seems to be problematic. I am planning to build a bolt on mount that keeps the ram off the diff cover itself but still allows me to remove the cover when needed. If I could get this new mount to make use of the high steer arms as well that would be great. my .250 wall tie rod is already a little bent.

Overall, I was really happy with how the truck performed. Having not driven it in almost 2 years, it was great to get it back into the rocks. There is definitely a learning curve with all the new parts of this build. felt like I was searching for the right gear to be in most of the weekend. going to 39's and 5.38 made a huge difference in what my go to gears are. Andrew got the shocks dialed into a pretty happy place so I was having a blast getting chased down by TP through some of the sandy bermed sections between trails. Handful of issues to work through but this thing is a blast.

LittleSteve · « **Reply #81 on:** May 05, 2021, 11:00:53 AM »

Whats the charge to get into sand hollow?

Or the process and order hoops that need to be jumped through?

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #82 on:** May 06, 2021, 06:01:02 AM »

10 dollars a day to get into the park, if you have a plate. If you have a green stickered vehicle you are supposed to purchase the Utah equivalent I believe it’s 20-40 bucks when you arrive in addition to the daily entry fee.

LittleSteve · « **Reply #83 on:** May 06, 2021, 12:41:06 PM »

That is most reasonable.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #84 on:** Jun 16, 2021, 01:03:26 PM »

been pretty hands off with this thing since getting back from Sand Hallow but starting to tinker and work through my list gremlins and opportunities for improvement. This started with changing the oil, new plugs and wires and putting fuel in her. amazing what a difference it makes lol.
pulled the diff cover and installed the studs, nordlocks and lock nuts. Probably didn't need to actually pull the cover and drain the diff but since its basically a trophy truck now that the shocks are accutarded, its important to change fluids every trip.... following a day of wheeling in Hollister, every nut and bolt on the diff cover was still tight so I am happy about that.

Installed the PSC pressure relief for the steering reservoir to help prevent fluid from pouring all over my header. The -10 supply line still weeps and drips on the header causing an occasional puff of smoke so I would like to 1. change out the supply line to a either high temp push lock or get a line made 2. build a little drip pan to keep the drips away from the header. the whole engine compartment just feels freakin' hot. I'm not sure if wrapping the header and exhaust would really help but I would like to figure something out. Steering cooler is very safely protected by the winch which also means there is basically zero air flow passing over it so relocating that higher up on the core support would probably also help keep the heat down in that system. All of this will happen when I pull the trigger on a new orbital. steering is super slow, especially from passenger to driver so im going to swap the orbital to get the lock to lock turns down.

Did not have any overheating issues with the truck while out at Hollister so seems that it was just a bad cap. I think I'll still put together a complete shroud to help with both keep the water temp down and help with pulling air across the steering cooler.

Bled the clutch again and its still super mushy until the last 3/4" of throw. general belief is that the internal seals are corroded and gone. its cheap enough to just order a new master and slave for the clutch than to spend more time trying to trouble shoot the existing one.

Overall, still really happy with how the truck is working and it was fun to get out and use the thing again. I forgot how close Hollister is.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #85 on:** Jan 21, 2022, 11:52:32 AM »

Finally getting around to building a bumper ahead of KOH. First real stab at doing some plate work, but overall pretty happy with how its coming together.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #86 on:** Jun 08, 2023, 03:03:08 PM »

Long overdue update. Haven't wheeled this much outside of KOH and Sand Hollow the last few years. Between the house remodel and another kid I haven't put much energy or effort into this. Hoping to get a few trips to the Sierra's in this summer. Flopped on The Fallen and then got recovered onto my lid. Windshield took its last ride and the back glass popped out in one piece, seal and all. Truck fired right back up and I had a nice glass shower on the way back to the house. Pulled the windshield out at the house and its pretty much buggy now.

Tentative plan is to cut the back of the cab out, extend the cage and put a bench for the kids in. Been going back and forth about putting a new cab, swapping a 4runner cab on or building something different all together. At the end of the day, there is some nostalgia about a raisin'd toyota. I thought this thing was hammered when I got it, but I was very wrong.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #87 on:** Jul 10, 2023, 03:43:29 PM »

Probably not going to be turning the Turd Burglar into a 4 seater.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #88 on:** Mar 05, 2024, 08:33:08 AM »

Working on some minor prep items before JV the end of this month... noticed some oil on the deck of my trailer after taking the truck to get smogged, got it off the trailer and into the garage and located the oil leak. After getting everything apart, my assumption is that the front case shift fork broke off, got wedged against the side of the case, cracking the housing. All the internals seems to be fine, no chipped teeth on the gears, etc. I don't know when the cases were originally built, but in the 10 years I have owned the truck I have never cracked them open. The low range shift rail and fork were "fabricated" in a non-standard method from what is described on Marlin's install instructions for dual cases. My assumption is they reworked a forward shift t case shift rail to make it a top shift.
Plan is to call Advanced adapters and get a machined reduction housing on order as well as a top shift conversion kit from trail gear for the replacement shift fork and rail.

seebrookmeyer · « **Reply #89 on:** Mar 11, 2024, 08:41:23 AM »

Got the bulk of the new parts in late last week and got the cases reassembled and installed in the truck Saturday/ Sunday. Just need to get drivelines and exhaust installed and all should be good to go for JV. Waiting on a second push turn shifter base from marlin just to make my life easier but can just install the old shifter base if it doesnt show up before the trip. Overall, I feel like I got pretty lucky with minimal damage, all the internals were in good shape.

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