Author Topic: Best gear oil for rear locker in toyota 86 4runner? (Read 13682 times)

19864runner · « **on:** Aug 26, 2011, 05:07:22 PM »

Whats the best brand and weight gear oil to run with a rear lock right getting a clunking sometimes it was just installed from a shop 600miles ago?

??

Dr Phat · « **Reply #1 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 07:17:58 PM »

Its what they do.

19864runner · « **Reply #2 on:** Aug 26, 2011, 07:31:00 PM »

i thought there were just known for clicking?

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #3 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 02:10:42 AM »

It's more of a clacking sound, very audible even from the inside of the cab. I had a parking attendant at a Ducks hockey game try to tell me there was something wrong with my truck once, my daughter laughed at him.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #4 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 07:02:03 PM »

to answer your question, 80/90 gear oil.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #5 on:** Aug 27, 2011, 08:00:02 PM »

I run Valvoline generally, but you really can't go wrong with gear oil. Sometimes my rear Detroit will bind up and unload sounding like a gun shot and the entire axle torques to the side. I would imagine that the lunchbox style locker would be similar.

Tofudude · « **Reply #6 on:** Aug 28, 2011, 01:26:05 AM »

its fun watching my co workers get worried they broke some when the locker unloads. I put 75w 90 mobile 1 syn with my aussie

blackdiamond · « **Reply #7 on:** Aug 28, 2011, 09:33:18 AM »

I've run synthetic in the past, but it's just not worth the current prices. If you can find a valvoline blend that's good middle ground, but the main advantages of synthetic are high temperature resistance and it's detergent qualities. Both of these things relate more to engine oil where the temperatures are much higher and combustion is happening. Gear oil uses an additive for wear resistance so the synthetics slickness isn't as much of a benefit. Plus, synthetic get a while goo in it when mixed with water and heat, try it in the microwave and compare to conventional.

I love synthetic motor oil, but just purchased the cheap Napa gear oil the last time I swapped things out.

19864runner · « **Reply #8 on:** Aug 28, 2011, 01:35:14 PM »

I ended up getting the redline 75-90w oil and the 4oz Limited Slip Friction Modifier

blackdiamond · « **Reply #9 on:** Aug 28, 2011, 03:15:05 PM »

Quote from: 19864runner on Aug 28, 2011, 01:35:14 PM

I ended up getting the redline 75-90w oil and the 4oz Limited Slip Friction Modifier

The LockRight doesn't require a limited slip friction modifier since it's not a limited slip with clutch packs. Return that.

Also, you'll never get any benefit out of the Redline. Their claim to fame is racing oil because the Group V synthetic they use as a base is about the best for high heat. Redline is great oil but you'll never know the difference.

Dr Phat · « **Reply #10 on:** Aug 29, 2011, 01:43:40 PM »

^ This

For our rigs, theres no benifit as far as I can see to running some super synthetic expensive oil. Slow speeds and it never really heats up unless your running hammers or something haha.

chim · « **Reply #11 on:** Aug 29, 2011, 02:35:13 PM »

On the subject I had my detroit unload as I was creeping by a wedding party trying to be inconspicuous haha.. nothing like a crazy loud bang to make my truck sound like a pile and scare everyone near by

rattlers · « **Reply #12 on:** Aug 29, 2011, 03:07:01 PM »

if I were to get a locker If I could afford it it would be a selectable , because I think I would get tired of explaining what that noise was all the time etc

blackdiamond · « **Reply #13 on:** Aug 30, 2011, 11:38:40 AM »

Quote from: rattlers on Aug 29, 2011, 03:07:01 PM

if I were to get a locker If I could afford it it would be a selectable , because I think I would get tired of explaining what that noise was all the time etc

This is way off topic, but my Detroit doesn't make that much noise if driven smoothly. It rarely unloads on me and it almost always results from stopping while turning so that it's misaligned when it has a load put back on it. When I recognize that I've put it in this situation I'll often just let off the gas for an instant and force it to unload without the bang. Sometimes, it bangs before I get the chance, but it's probably once a week at the most with daily driving.

The lunchbox type lockers click I believe when turning, but my Aussies in the front so I can't really say what it would do in the rear. I have heard the LockRight clicking horribly and wouldn't choose to have that in my rig.

Tofudude · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 11, 2011, 09:32:30 PM »

that clicking you hear is the locker ratcheting (sorta). i do laugh though when people jump, when the locker unloads lol. That one makes the bang. but its no biggie

b_sherwood3 · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 17, 2011, 02:26:35 AM »

Mobile one fully synthetic oil is the best you can buy at any retail store, but if you want the best oil try to find someone that sells Amsoil, there might be a few dealers in your area.

chim · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 17, 2011, 07:23:07 AM »

Quote from: b_sherwood3 on Sep 17, 2011, 02:26:35 AM

Mobile one fully synthetic oil is the best you can buy at any retail store, but if you want the best oil try to find someone that sells Amsoil, there might be a few dealers in your area.

Seems like overkill to me... 80-90w valvoline.....

CruelCrawler83 · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 19, 2011, 09:23:25 AM »

castrol 80/90

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 20, 2011, 02:55:42 AM »

Quote

GL-4 and GL-5 are standards set by the American Petroleum Institute for gear oils. GL-4 are intended for axles with spiral bevel and hypoid gears operating under moderate to severe conditions of speeds and loads. They are also suitable for sychronized manual transmissions when MT-1 gear oils are NOT recommended. GL-4 should be used in limited-slip differentials. The GL-4 generally indicates "Limited Slip" properties in the gear oil; sometimes abbreviated as LS.

GL-5 is indicated for high-speed/shock loads and low-speed/high-torque conditions. GL-5 also has multi-purpose or mild EP (extreme) properties too. GL-5 is often seen with the MT-1 designation too.

MT-1 indicates lubricants intended for NON-sychronized manual transmissions. MT-1 indicates the additional additives necessary to protect against thermal degradation, component wear and oil-seal deterioration which are not requirements by GL-4 or GL-5 approval.

GL-5 is not the latest and greatest improvement over GL-4; unlike oil classifications where higher classification numbers mean tougher standards and backward compatiblity. It is important to know what type of gears you are lubricating, their applications and follow the manufacturer's recommendations! More information can be found at www.api.org.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Whats_the_difference_between_gl4_and_gl5_gear_oils#ixzz1YU5ZZNhZ

You should also be aware of the requirements of GL-4 and GL-5 requirements for your application, the wrong one can cause issues. For the most part it really isn't an issue on the synthetic oils in diffs, transmissions or tcases since you are not dealing with carbon in these areas or breakdown of viscosity due to carbon build up. Synthetic is a very high detergent oil and is why it works best in engines but really serves no purpose in non-combustion areas. Just go with a good brand 80/90 GL-4. There are some crossover GL-4/5 that you can use but personally I would only use a GL-5 in the trans for the brass. Also some manufacturer warranties are voided if you use synthetic.

b_sherwood3 · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 20, 2011, 12:00:02 PM »

I always heard that synthetic oils keep out the moisture better.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 20, 2011, 08:06:54 PM »

Quote from: b_sherwood3 on Sep 20, 2011, 12:00:02 PM

I always heard that synthetic oils keep out the moisture better.

Get some synthetic and conventional oil and put it in a dish in the microwave with a little water. You'll see that the synthetic gets a nasty white goo in it and the conventional doesn't. I keep synthetic out of my diffs and in the motor where it performs the best.