Topic: 1987 Toyota 22R wont idle

[ttrmike]

I have been trying to complete my toyota pickup restoration and am running into some problems getting the truck to run right. The pickup is a 1987 Toyota 4X4 standard cab short bed with a federal 22R
 
The truck runs on high idle OK, it starts off a little rough but then picks up to the proper speed. It runs for maybe 3min and then drops off of the high idle. This is where all the problems begin, it drops off of high idle and and starts to idle real low, is shaky and misses. The way the DUI distributor is hooked up is direct vacuum and advances at idle. A couple of days ago the truck idled GREAT, but now all of the sudden it wont. The seems to be that the distributor isn't advancing, like there isn't any vacuum at idle. I have tried every thing I know and nothing has worked. If you have any ideas I would greatly appreciate it.
 
The truck has:
 
-NEW motor
-remanufactured carb
-DUI ignition system
-Denso platinum +4 sparkplugs
-good plug wires
-new EGR valve
-new EGR valve modulator
-New vacuum switch
-New VSV
-the Air injection system is working
-new PCV valve
-new fuel filter
-new air filter
-all new vacuum lines
-I have triple checked all vacuum line routing
-fuel cut solenoid is working
-no noticeable vacuum leaks
-idle screw can be adjusted to no avail
-idle mixture screw can be adjusted without any results
-timing is correct
-no blow fuses
-no loose connections at ECM
-the AAP valve is fine
-both BVSV valves function
-8 gallons of new gas was put in the truck along with sea foam
-float level is fine
-no apparent exhaust leaks
-new exhaust system including new 2.25in cat
 

[79coyotefrg]

the vacuum advance is NOT supposed to be hooked to direct vacuum,  there is a port on your carb that is for the vacuum advance it only  put vacuum to it when its needed

[ttrmike [OP]]

Remember, this isn't the stock distributor. Its a DUI unit, and according to the guy I talked to at Performance Distributors it is supposed to be hooked to direct vacuum. The problem is that the truck is acting funny on its own. I ran GREAT for a couple of days, so I didn't mess with any of the settings. Then I started the truck the other day and all of the sudden it wouldn't idle. Now as of today the truck is idling again, but not as good as it used to. This problem seams to come and go on its own.

[79coyotefrg]

The Toyota 20R and 22R 4 cylinders are some of the most popular engines ever
produced. The new D.U.I. (Davis Unified Ignition) is the ultimate ignition for this
application. Produced from 74-89, trucks with this engine need to be upgraded
with today's technology, specifically the D.U.I. The D.U.I. is a one-wire, one piece
distributor. No more messy wiring or points to worry you. The Toyota D.U.I. is
available in either the Street/Strip version (up to 7000 rpms) or the Racing version
(up to 9000 rpms). Due to the longer duration spark which the D.U.I. produces, you
will be able to open up the plug gaps to a whopping .055". This burns the fuel more
completely, leading to more power. Our Dyna Module is designed with more dwell
time producing a hotter spark. No ballast resistor is used. Stock toyota systems
and many aftermarket systems require a ballast resistor which reduces the voltage
in the ignition system. Our D.U.I. allows FULL voltage into the ignition system,
giving you a better spark and more power. Because each D.U.I. is calibrated on a
distributor machine with a very accurate advance curve, you should be able to
increase your initial base timing from the factory setting of 0 degrees to 8 degrees.
That will set you back in your seat fast! The D.U.I. is a real work of craftsmanship.
Although it is uniquely designed, replacement parts are easy to find. GM HEI
replacement parts will fit right on the DUI and these parts can be found at your
local auto parts store. The unit is polished and lubed as it is assembled. Built
for durability, the D.U.I. has an upper and lower bushing, unlike stock Toyota
distributors with only one bushing. A tach hookup is included with the D.U.I.

 

according to everything ive ever laid my hands on base timing is not 0* its 8*


again,  you have the stock carb you need to plug the vacuum line in the correct port

sounds like there's a problem with the low speed side of the carb maybe but i cant help on that

[prawl44]

see my truck is doing the same thing but i haven't change anything but plugs weirs an cap an rotor thin i did a compression test an my number 2 is bad but i put some additives in an it seams to be OK but with 210xxx should i start for a rebuild?