Author Topic: Water in oil (Read 2094 times)

Serenity now! · « **on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:16:36 AM »

So i know head gasket is good, just did a top half rebuild. ran fine, small miss. parked it for awhile. New the timing chain was slapping when parked, so I tore into that recently. Bought new timing cover, water pump, oil pump, timing chain and steel guides. Put it together, put water in.... some drips. realized, like an IDIOT, the 3 nuts on the water pump were not tight enough and the center bolt that is long and goes through the water pump also not tight. So I tightened those. no more water leak. Put oil in started right up, ran great no miss either now!....... then checked the oil..... milky as can be. drained oil. checked water. Water is fine no oil in water. After a complete drain and several hours of letting it sit there with oil plug open. Close plug and filled with a little oil. Opened plug and still milky. Not as bad but still. Left oil plug off and poured more oil in to see if it would push water out. got less milky. Let it sit over night. put oil in today and drained, still milky. I did fill the rad 2 to 3 times when trying to locate the leak. so question is.... How can I get the remaining water/oil mixture out and, could there be another leak?

Goldrush · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:21:01 AM »

drop the oil pan?

Serenity now! · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:24:18 AM »

I was hoping not to do that due to it being 90 4runner with auto hubs which means raising the engine or dropping the front axle some how.... not fun:( but I may just have to.

yoshaleng · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:32:15 AM »

how many lbs did you toque the head bolts to? why not buy a engine flush and cheap oil and flush it out?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:32:53 AM »

they make a product called "Rislone" buy a couple quarts of that and some cheap oil. you'll need to put that in and change the oil after running it for a few minutes.

if you continue to have milk you need to pull the head and get another headgasket.

was this a felpro headgasket?? if so thats the problem.

yoshaleng · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:37:57 AM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Mar 17, 2011, 10:32:53 AM

they make a product called "Rislone" buy a couple quarts of that and some cheap oil. you'll need to put that in and change the oil after running it for a few minutes.

if you continue to have milk you need to pull the head and get another headgasket.

was this a felpro headgasket?? if so thats the problem.

the last time I replaced head gasket, I bought new head bolts and torqued them to 80lbs even though the book says 50lbs...

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 03:01:19 PM »

Quote from: YosHaleng on Mar 17, 2011, 10:37:57 AM

the last time I replaced head gasket, I bought new head bolts and torqued them to 80lbs even though the book says 50lbs...

are you drunk or just THAT stupid

the book says 58 ftlbs, I usually torque to 65 ftlbs but I'd NEVER go past that. have you ever had to remove a broken headbolt from the block??

OOPS · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 03:11:08 PM »

Quote from: YosHaleng on Mar 17, 2011, 10:37:57 AM

the last time I replaced head gasket, I bought new head bolts and torqued them to 80lbs even though the book says 50lbs...

Over torqueing can cause more harm then good. You can break a bolt, snap a bolt while running because it is over stressed, and you can distort the surface around the hole. There are reasons for torque specs, use them.

Serenity now! · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 04:55:32 PM »

head never came of the block. so I don't think it could be a head gasket problem. I will try some flushes and see what happens.

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 09:01:54 PM »

get a coolant system pressure tester and pressure up the system. Leave the oil plug out and let the thing set for a while then see if you get any coolant out of the pan.

And 80 ft/lbs? That is just flat out ignorant.... Sorry.....

Thats a big

yoshaleng · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 09:59:48 PM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Mar 17, 2011, 03:01:19 PM

are you drunk or just THAT stupid

the book says 58 ftlbs, I usually torque to 65 ftlbs but I'd NEVER go past that. have you ever had to remove a broken headbolt from the block??

Quote from: OOPS on Mar 17, 2011, 03:11:08 PM

Over torqueing can cause more harm then good. You can break a bolt, snap a bolt while running because it is over stressed, and you can distort the surface around the hole. There are reasons for torque specs, use them.

did it by the boob originally and it worked for

, atleast for me anyway. my truck still running strong 3rd yr and counting.

my bad...by the book

OOPS · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:15:18 PM »

Quote from: YosHaleng on Mar 17, 2011, 09:59:48 PM

did it by the boob originally and it worked for , atleast for me anyway. my truck still running strong 3rd yr and counting.

You should have used a FSM not a boob.

When was the last time you had your torque wrench calibrated?

Did you check the head and deck with a real straight edge?

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 17, 2011, 10:19:38 PM »

80 is way to tight streatch head bolts usually dont last past 78ft lbs u got lucky they didnt reak

yoshaleng · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 12:30:42 AM »

Quote from: OOPS on Mar 17, 2011, 10:15:18 PM

You should have used a FSM not a boob.

When was the last time you had your torque wrench calibrated?

Did you check the head and deck with a real straight edge?

good point, my torque wrench is pretty darn old...I'd say atleast 5yrs old now.
I had the head resurfaced along a valve job so i figured the head was okay, as for the block... yes.

now you got me wondering, with my torque wrench being that old...what was the actual torque applied.

ninja turtle · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 08:07:26 AM »

Quote from: YosHaleng on Mar 18, 2011, 12:30:42 AM

good point, my torque wrench is pretty darn old...I'd say atleast 5yrs old now.
I had the head resurfaced along a valve job so i figured the head was okay, as for the block... yes.

now you got me wondering, with my torque wrench being that old...what was the actual torque applied.

OMG!! A FIVE YEAR OLD TORQUE WRENCH!!! better toss that thing in the trash.

2manytoys · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 08:26:45 AM »

I still have several Snap on torque wrenches I bought in the 80's that are accurate. Working at a Cat dealer we all had to have our torque wrenches checked and calibrated quarterly. Multimeters annually. They paid for it.

My 1/2" torque wrenches have never needed adjustment and one of my 3/8" had one adjustment in all these years.

Check with a tool guy and see what it costs to have your torque wrench checked.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 08:32:38 AM »

its not cheap my snap on justcost me over 100 bucks to re calibrate

2manytoys · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 09:14:00 AM »

Damn, that's expensive. I can't imagine what the dealership was spending. When I left they had around 450 mechanics. I guess it's cheaper than having warranty issues caused by inaccurate torque wrenches.

The Tucson shop ended up buying the test tooling and our tool room guy got trained to do it. I'm sure that saved them a bunch.

Anyway, not the topic originally posted, sorry.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 12:00:40 PM »

Quote from: Serenity now! on Mar 17, 2011, 04:55:32 PM

head never came of the block. so I don't think it could be a head gasket problem. I will try some flushes and see what happens.

if your engine got overheated at any time in the recent past then that is your problem.

Serenity now! · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 12:22:50 PM »

no, when I first got it that was the reason for it sitting for yrs. So last yr I put new head on from engbldr and ran great for the few month I did drive, except for the small miss

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 12:37:57 PM »

run a compression check and post the numbers.

rage · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 06:08:52 PM »

x2 on compression. x2 on coolant sys. pressure testing.
Read the plugs while they're out, they say alot too. From your info, repair history, and that miss, i bet headgasket.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 07:12:02 PM »

Quote from: rage on Mar 18, 2011, 06:08:52 PM

x2 on compression. x2 on coolant sys. pressure testing.
Read the plugs while they're out, they say alot too. From your info, repair history, and that miss, i bet headgasket.

Serenity now! · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 18, 2011, 08:11:44 PM »

well vacation tomorrow, back next Sunday So i'll get some num's up

HULK · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 19, 2011, 08:19:18 AM »

I would agree with a couple guys there as far as maybe drop the pan, maybe there is stuff sitting in there since you said as you flush it gets less milky. Otherwise to do a compression test, those are the first two things I'd do. Two easiest. If still the same, then heads.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 19, 2011, 10:25:38 AM »

put it together and drive it till it's good and worm. if some water got in from the w/p and you've got it fixed
there will be some there till you get it out. now if theres not enuff to damage the motor (your call there)
time and motor temp will get the little bit left out. just get the oil temp over 212 degrees.
drive up a long hill a few times. dont take as muck as some think it does to get the oil temp up to 212.
it will boil off and the water will be all gone......now, if after that you still have water you'll have to pull something off for sure.

dare44 · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 30, 2011, 01:36:57 PM »

x3 on the compression test, sounds like a new headgasket again tho

Serenity now! [OP]

Serenity now! [OP]

Serenity now! [OP]

Serenity now! [OP]

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