Author Topic: Cone Washers (Read 4724 times)

fishpaw · « **on:** May 04, 2004, 07:35:45 PM »

This is a easy question for those who have done it before. When removing the free wheel hub how do you remove the cone wasshers?...Fish

Prismo · « **Reply #1 on:** May 04, 2004, 07:45:12 PM »

Loosen bolts, brass drift on each stud hit with BFH.

KYOTA · « **Reply #2 on:** May 04, 2004, 07:46:14 PM »

I use a small standard screwdriver and tap it into the split in the washer till it spreads it enough to lift out. Oop's I was thinking on the knuckle.

Prismo · « **Reply #3 on:** May 04, 2004, 07:53:03 PM »

Good point, I do that to get them the rest of the way out after I loosen them with the drift & the hammer.

Hyena · « **Reply #4 on:** May 04, 2004, 08:00:36 PM »

any way i can. I have tried the small screwdriver to the split and it worked a couple times. I have hit it with a bfh and put a socket on it to protect the threads. I have also just hit the housing part and it worked for a couple of them. Try them all. some will work and some won't.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #5 on:** May 04, 2004, 08:10:26 PM »

I just take the nuts off and drive around till they fall off

Ferg · « **Reply #6 on:** May 04, 2004, 09:25:57 PM »

BFH :.order: at outside edge of wheel hub where it mates to locking hub. You'll get a minor dent on locking hub but no damage to function. CAUTION - leave nut on stud 'cause cone washers fly when they come loose!

mr4x42u · « **Reply #7 on:** May 05, 2004, 01:36:19 AM »

if possible I use a air hammer and just tao the hub over the cone washer and they pop right out..hammer is good too..I have been using silicone brake caliper and dielectric grease on the cone washers before i out hubs back together and it really helps the net time they need to come out..They fall right out with a little tap-tap-taparoo...

hawaii500_1999 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 05, 2004, 08:03:33 AM »

i use a flat bladed screw driver or a small chisel and tap it into the slot on the cone washer perpindicular to the stud. this will spread the cone forceing it out. when assembling it back together remeber to point those splits outward so that next time you have to do it you can get to it easier with the chisel.

oh yeah. BFH's are fun but for this job i just use a 10 ounce hammer. but suit your own.

84runner · « **Reply #9 on:** May 05, 2004, 10:12:52 AM »

a point for you brainless

but you would have got 2 points if you hadn't forgot to mention leaving the nuts on the end so you don't loose everything. but good effort cause that method works

Prismo · « **Reply #10 on:** May 05, 2004, 11:42:22 AM »

Quote from: 84runner on May 05, 2004, 10:12:52 AM

a point for you brainless but you would have got 2 points if you hadn't forgot to mention leaving the nuts on the end so you don't loose everything. but good effort cause that method works

I guess he doesn't want to loose his nuts. I mean what guy does?

brainlessfool · « **Reply #11 on:** May 05, 2004, 01:06:10 PM »

well judging by 84runner's avitar he does'ant mind helping others lose there nuts!

now prism look, I'm the comedin here

and don't forget it

(still I gots ta give ya a point for that one)

(oh heck, point for 84 runner too) $Beer Chug\'n$

83yota · « **Reply #12 on:** May 05, 2004, 01:15:36 PM »

i just did mine for the firdt time the other day. i went to toyota dealership and the tech taught me the if you back off the 12mm nuts (not all the way off) and then hit the black part of the hub, just inside the crome they will come out with no damage. worked for me on both sides. then i took them the rest of the way off with a pair of pliers.

Jared · « **Reply #13 on:** May 05, 2004, 01:17:10 PM »

One way that would really help is to spray some wd-40 or penetrating catalyst on the washers and just hit it with a bf standard screwdriver. hit the screwdriver with a dead blow or a bfh.

kyle_22r · « **Reply #14 on:** May 09, 2004, 09:50:03 PM »

i watched the guy at 4wheelparts take a whack at the hub(not the locking part) with a bfh, and he'd pull off 2 or 3 washers, rotate it a bit, whack it, repeat. looked pretty easy to me

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #15 on:** May 11, 2004, 04:54:25 PM »

Quote from: hawaii500_1999 on May 05, 2004, 08:03:33 AM

i use a flat bladed screw driver or a small chisel and tap it into the slot on the cone washer perpindicular to the stud. this will spread the cone forceing it out. when assembling it back together remeber to point those splits outward so that next time you have to do it you can get to it easier with the chisel.

oh yeah. BFH's are fun but for this job i just use a 10 ounce hammer. but suit your own.

$Beer Chug\'n$ thats the way to do it, hold that screwdriver,smallchisel so it hits the side fo the cone to spread the slit and thats all you need
bfh +

jvmin2 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 11, 2004, 07:34:18 PM »

mine were stuck really bad I tried the whacking the hub idea. and the screwdriver idea and all sorts of other stuff as well. pb blast, wd 40, finally I tried hitting the stud with a brass drift with the nuts on enough to protect the threads and to keep the washers on if they did come off and with one hit to each stud with a 2.5 lb small sledge. a light tap was all it took and each one came off no problem. and that's the way I have done it every time since then. also use anti seize on the cones for easy removal. the hitting the hub thing is not a good idea since it can deform the hub and ding it all up like mine are now they look like crap. anti seize the cones and thread lock the nuts and the next time they will come right off.

the first time mine hadn't been removed for 20 years so they were in bad shape as far as the cones went. they were rusted to the studs.

Roktoys84 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 19, 2004, 07:40:54 PM »

Just replaced pads and rotors an hour ago. I just used a small cold chisel into the groove and they popped right off no problem. :.order: I had some trouble with the adjuster and retainer nuts though. I don't have a socket that big so I used channel locks. Driver side came right off but the passenger side sucked. Anyone know what size they are? Got to go buy one an I wanna make sure I get it right.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #18 on:** May 19, 2004, 10:19:43 PM »

54 mm Marlin sell the socket from strap on.....I mean snap on for $25

Roktoys84 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 20, 2004, 03:02:09 PM »

Thanks WT. Have a point for helpin me out.

OOPS · « **Reply #20 on:** May 21, 2004, 09:35:04 PM »

I do it the way the FSM says to do it, Brass Drift and BFH, never fails but mine have been off a lot since I did the SAS five years ago!!!!!

KYOTA · « **Reply #21 on:** May 21, 2004, 09:42:40 PM »

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on May 19, 2004, 10:19:43 PM

54 mm Marlin sell the socket from strap on.....I mean snap on for $25

I got the Snap-On socket from Marlin, cheaper than a Craftsman!

5spd · « **Reply #22 on:** May 23, 2004, 10:28:03 PM »

Quote from: KYOTA on May 21, 2004, 09:42:40 PM

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on May 19, 2004, 10:19:43 PM
54 mm Marlin sell the socket from strap on.....I mean snap on for $25

I got the Snap-On socket from Marlin, cheaper than a Craftsman!

Cheaper yet is to make on out of muffler tube....cost to me...bout $1.25

I also made a cone removal tool out of a punch per the service manual I have, works everytime without a BFH.

hawaii500_1999 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 23, 2004, 10:46:39 PM »

i got my socket at napa for ten bucks. only problem was that it was 3/4" drive so i welded an old 1/2" drive socket to it.

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