Author Topic: Looking at Lockers (Read 3541 times)

Weldo · « **on:** Dec 17, 2005, 12:04:42 PM »

I'm starting to seriously look at a locker for my 91 pickup and need some opinions. I plan on either going the cheap route, with a Lock-Rite or something similar, or going all out and getting an ARB. Any recomendations? How difficult is the ARB compressor to wire up? Also I'd like to lock the front eventually. Should I have reservations on locking the stock IFS? I've heard other guys on the board doing it with good results. Any and all opinions are appreciated. Thanks alot!

Zoomschwortz · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 12:51:20 PM »

You might consider a Toyota E-Locker.

There are some deals out there. I bought mine factory new, in the box, to my door for $385.00.
The only bad thing is it has 3.90's and I want 4.56's, but for $385 I'm not complaining.

For the front I would consider a Detroit True Trac. From what people tell me you don't even know it's there when your steering. The only bad thing is if you have a tire off the ground you have to step slightly on the brake to keep it from spinning. They work great as long as both tires are on the ground.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 02:33:30 PM »

I have heard nothing but good feedback on the Aussie Lockers and they cost 1/2 the price of a Detroit. I had the front of my 86 (IFS) Turbo 4Runner locked with a Detroit EZ locker never had any trouble with it and only broke 1 half-shaft over the 5 years I owned it. Both of my brothers had their IFS fronts locked too, a V-6 91 extra-cab and a 87 Turbo 4Runner. The only point either one started having issues with the IFS is the one with the 87 Turbo 4Runner had the Downey shafts and he couldn't keep them on the truck. He broke those cheap

shafts almost every other run. Of course the 4Runner's were autos but the V6 Extra Cab had a 5 speed and had no issues at all with the shafts or 3rd.

Matt_BC · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 18, 2005, 09:58:02 AM »

Quote from: Weldo on Dec 17, 2005, 12:04:42 PM

I'm starting to seriously look at a locker for my 91 pickup and need some opinions. I plan on either going the cheap route, with a Lock-Rite or something similar, or going all out and getting an ARB. Any recomendations? How difficult is the ARB compressor to wire up? Also I'd like to lock the front eventually. Should I have reservations on locking the stock IFS? I've heard other guys on the board doing it with good results. Any and all opinions are appreciated. Thanks alot!

Wiring the compressor is very simple ... keeping the airlines from not leaking a little harder but possible ...

They make an ARB for the 7.5" IFS but I'd had some doubts if the IFS is strong enough for that ..

I put a truetrac in the front .. works well and I feel less concerned about my front axle

Matt

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 18, 2005, 10:05:38 AM »

Quote from: Matt_BC on Dec 18, 2005, 09:58:02 AM

Wiring the compressor is very simple ... keeping the airlines from not leaking a little harder but possible ...

They make an ARB for the 7.5" IFS but I'd had some doubts if the IFS is strong enough for that ..

I put a truetrac in the front .. works well and I feel less concerned about my front axle

Matt

A few of my club members run ARB's in the front of their DD's and do bring them on the trail sometimes, haven't had any issues of breakage, but I still hate all the other issues that an ARB brings with it. Sucks when you really, really need that locker and that stupid thing won't engage.

Matt_BC · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 18, 2005, 11:20:43 AM »

Yeah totally .. I have been there a few times , you are stuck ... flip the switch ... and ... nothing

The locker unit itself is great ... probably indestructible in a stock toyota setup ... The 2 weakpoints are:

- Compressor leaking where reservoir cup is mating with the compressor .... After years of trouble a small bead of black liquid gasket now took care of it

(I am still installing a backup air system with a few tanks ...)

- The fitting where the airline enters the axle housing ... the old setup sucked bad ... the new setup is better....

The unit hasnt let me down recently and if it works is the best you can get

Matt

toybuilt · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 18, 2005, 11:27:33 AM »

I don't know what you guys do to your ARB air lockers but I've never had a problem with mine and untill then (if that ever happens) I think that the ARB air lockers are the best locker to have. But thats just me

Weldo · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 01:10:45 PM »

I like the idea of the E-locker, but I heard the wiring is a bit involved. You need relays and fuses and all kinds of crap to get it to work right. I know you can convert the E-locker to work off a cable, which I think would be a little more fool proof. Also, can the mods to the housing be easily done while to housing is in the truck, or is it best to remove the housing from the truck to get better access? To convert to cable operation, would you just use a parking brake cable?

I like the fact that the compressor for an ARB could be used for airing up tires as well.

As far as the Aussie lockers and the like, they are pretty sweet, but I really want full selectability. Keep the info comin', thanks!

sloyota · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 01:18:28 PM »

detroit in rear with 5:29
ARB in front with 5:29
cant beat that,as long as you have steel braid air lines

ZukIzzy · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 01:42:35 PM »

Quote from: Weldo on Dec 23, 2005, 01:10:45 PM

I like the idea of the E-locker, but I heard the wiring is a bit involved. You need relays and fuses and all kinds of crap to get it to work right. I know you can convert the E-locker to work off a cable, which I think would be a little more fool proof. Also, can the mods to the housing be easily done while to housing is in the truck, or is it best to remove the housing from the truck to get better access? To convert to cable operation, would you just use a parking brake cable?

I like the fact that the compressor for an ARB could be used for airing up tires as well.

As far as the Aussie lockers and the like, they are pretty sweet, but I really want full selectability. Keep the info comin', thanks!

You are gonna have to use relays and all that stuff for the ARB compressor too. Then run the air lines too so they are pretty close to the same amount of work to plumb/wire. I run both kinds in different rigs and find the Electrics to be a bit slow in unlocking (Eaton E-lockers). for trail running it would be no big deal but they are in a comp rig wich will have ARBs soon only due to the more possative unlock of the ARB. This is a hard decision but one that you cannot go too far wrong as long as you stick to quality manufacters.

Good luck
Wayne
PS if your rig has front wheel drive only capability put the detriot up front and the arb in the rear

blackdiamond · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 01:48:22 PM »

Quote from: Zoomschwortz on Dec 17, 2005, 12:51:20 PM

For the front I would consider a Detroit True Trac. From what people tell me you don't even know it's there when your steering. The only bad thing is if you have a tire off the ground you have to step slightly on the brake to keep it from spinning. They work great as long as both tires are on the ground.

I am currently running a Truetrac in the front and it does cause the truck to "pull/track" differently in 4wd, but it works fairly well offroad. I am upgrading to an Aussie in the front (with 30-spline Longfield Birfields and inner axles) because it is difficult to powerbrake in a 5-speed that lacks extra power. Also, limited slips are no comparison to a full locker.

If you have stock birfields, the Truetrac is a great way to go because it is much less likely that you will break things. If money isn't an issue, E-Locker or ARB are the ultimate.

Weldo · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 02:09:03 PM »

I'd like to get one of Marlins third members complete with an ARB. Should I consider high pinion? I'm gonna go atl least with a v6 housing, high pinion is only $100 more. No mods are needed for high pinion, right? Also, would 4.88s be too low for a daily driver. I've got a 5 speed, runnin 225 75 15s right now but would like 31s. Are 4.88s too low ya think? I want decent RPMs at highway speed. Right now I'm around 3000 RPM in 5th gear goin 65-70 mph.

DTB · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 02:22:50 PM »

You said you couldnt decide to go cheap (lock-rite) or expensive ARB. How about a detroit locker in the rear and an aussie or truetrac in front. Maybe later you could do an e-locker or ARB in front? Yes 4.88s are to low for 31's daily driving. I just had them on my truck with 31's for a while til I got 33's. it took off quick, 1st gear was really short and it screamed on the highway. Do you have a lift? just go 33's with 4.88s. Personally, I am waiting to do a SAS on the front before I lock it. Can't justify spending anymore money on IFS

Edit: it seems like this same question is on here like every week

Weldo · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 02:45:11 PM »

I have no lift yet, but plan on one in the future. It's almost like I have to do all this stuff at once. If I get a third from marlin with 4.88s and an ARB, I should get 33" tires for the gears, but to fit 'em I may need a lift. I really do want a fully selectable locker. Since I see more road time than offroad, I'd like to maintain the stock like driveability. I think I wanna go with an ARB. Would it be cheaper to buy a complete V6 third setup form Marlin or buy the locker and have it set up in a junkyard third? Maybe I should go with a third member from a junkyard so I can have it set up with 4.10 gears (Marlin doesn't offer an ARB third with 4.10s).

DTB · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 02:58:28 PM »

Yea, to run bigger tires, you have to get a lift and gears. Might as well throw a locker in while your switchen gears. You're right it's better to do around the same time and will cost some $$$. Marlin ARB V6 3rd is about 1300$. Detroit third is about $1000. You could get a junkyard third and buy the ARB and parts. Do you feel confident enough/or have skills to install the ARB yourself or find someone to do it? Which is cheaper. Depends on if you can get a deal on the ARB and junkyard third and if you do it yourself. If you got a third from marlin 4.88s, then you would have to get bigger tires and suspension lift (more $$$). I think it would be a waste of your time and money to put a locker in w/4.10 gears when you're probably going to want to replace soon anyways. Trust me you'll eventually want bigger tires, we all do!

8D3TOY · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 03:10:05 PM »

my only question on the ARB is if you don't use it for extended periods of time do any of the seals dry out?

blackdiamond · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 03:14:08 PM »

If you want a good DD for a reasonable price, get 4.88 R&P and Aussie Rear and Aussie or Truetrac front. I have a Detroit rear, 33's, 4.88 gears and I am planning to drive it 1000+ miles to Moab for the 3rd time in March. From what I have heard, the Aussie is cheaper and sometimes feels softer on the street that the full detroit. My truck is my DD since my wife gets the Tundra.

My

Matt_BC · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 23, 2005, 07:29:23 PM »

Quote from: 8D3TOY on Dec 23, 2005, 03:10:05 PM

my only question on the ARB is if you don't use it for extended periods of time do any of the seals dry out?

no they dont ... the axle seal will wear over time though .. mine has held up for over 100.000 km so far .. no probs with the locker ... compressor is a different story

Matt

TigerToy · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 27, 2005, 12:34:27 PM »

I have an aussie, and it works great, though a little squirly on the road sometimes. If I were to go it again, I would look for a used e-locker. My buddie found one in a junkyard for 100 bucks!!!!!!!!.

RHG · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 28, 2005, 04:38:09 AM »

WELD IT! Weld the rear and put an aussie in the front. Never better. Wont break the bank or your truck. Tire wear is a load of crap. I have been running my 33 swampers with a welded rear for 3-4 months as a DD and I have seen ZERO abnormal wear. Do it and dont look back. A locked rear makes a world of a difference.

TigerToy · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 29, 2005, 07:36:13 AM »

Quote from: RHG on Dec 28, 2005, 04:38:09 AM

WELD IT! Weld the rear and put an aussie in the front. Never better. Wont break the bank or your truck. Tire wear is a load of crap. I have been running my 33 swampers with a welded rear for 3-4 months as a DD and I have seen ZERO abnormal wear. Do it and dont look back. A locked rear makes a world of a difference.

I'm welded in the front, but I don't really like it. I plan on swapping the thirds out between the front and the back. Mine is trail only though.

toybuilt · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 30, 2005, 09:47:55 PM »

A friend of mine welded front end (dana 44) of his jeep, it drove fine on the road didnt get to go off road to much with him though

Weldo [OP]

Weldo [OP]

Weldo [OP]

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