Author Topic: rears to front question  (Read 3866 times)

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kevs83yota

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rears to front question
« on: May 05, 2005, 09:55:18 AM »
i have an 83 toyota, i just put 63" 2 wheel drive chevys in rear w/ 3" blocks. the chevys replaced 4" lift stock length Alcan springs. i have stock length alcans in front also. My question is would the 4" lift but stock length rear alcans work in the front or would it put the front way up in the air? Or maybe it would sit perfect because of the lift. Can you put lifted rear springs in the front and not have to add leafs to the pack?
   Does this make a lick of sence?

Pics of rears to front, and how they flex would be greatly appriciated. Thanks

MiniSimp

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kevs83yota [OP]

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2005, 10:14:57 AM »
hey thanks.     :biggthumpup:

To The Floor

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2005, 11:25:37 AM »
i'm pretty sure a 4" rear lift spring up front would be huge in the front.  it all depends on shackle lengths and drop of front spring hanger.  i know there's guys runnin' waggy/stock toyota rear packs at about 6-7 leaves, and they get around 7" of lift with 2" dropp hanger and 1.5" shackles.  if you kept the front spring hanger at stock height, but had a longer shackle, and the 4" lift springs you might be good, but then your pinion angle sucks.  it's going to be big either way.
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blackdiamond

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2005, 11:31:51 AM »
What was wrong with the Alcan springs?  I would think that 63" springs with 3" blocks was a step in the wrong direction that could lead to serious axle wrap?  Also, I thought that Chevy springs required a load to really flex well possibly making them better suited for a 4runner application.  I am no expert, but not many people dump Alcan springs.

What are you planning to do with the front Alcan springs?  How much lift and how were they designed?
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2005, 12:23:05 PM »
X2  You replaced alcans with fawkin chevies?  WHY would you do that?  chevies are a decent spring on some rigs but on 98% of them out there they suck.  The only way to get them to flex on a truck is to put a buggy/drophanger/double shackle on it and thats just asking for trouble.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

kevs83yota [OP]

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2005, 12:25:50 PM »
The rear alcan springs were a little to stiff. But then again they were designed for a load i dont carry in the rear any more (a spare tire and tool box). I really like the Chevys, even with 3" blocks not very much axle rap at all. I kept the overload leaf in but cut it off right past the u-bolts, and left the front. I also have terra flex revolvers on with them, the two were ment for each other.

The front alcan springs work very well. I was just getting greedy and wanted more flex. I know i can get more from a longer spring. Thats why i wanted to try the alcan rears up front.     But i deffinetly do need a better shackle ange in the front

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2005, 12:28:32 PM »
Put the rears up front just as they are and try it out.  3" blocks, revolvers and chevies and you dont think you have any wrap?  :rofl:
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

kevs83yota [OP]

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2005, 12:41:02 PM »
beleive it or not, i dont get it as bad as with the alcan springs. the revolvers also dont unload during exceleration anymore. Wheel hop isn't as bad either. I dont really know why, but the chevies seem to be better in every aspect. :dunno:  I will try the rears up front and see what happens.



MiniSimp

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2005, 01:17:46 PM »
Just keep an eye on your pinion angle, you may need shims for the front.

A track bar for the rear would eliminate all axle wrap.

kevs83yota [OP]

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2005, 01:33:51 PM »
Do you know of any detailed write ups on track bars for the toyotas?

MiniSimp

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Hyena

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2005, 08:56:18 PM »
KYOTA built one on here.  Do like WT said.  Put the rear Alcans in front just as they are.  They won't lift the front 4 inches like the back becasue of the engine weight.  They could actually work pretty good.  but then again you might need to mess around with the leaves a little to get them to your liking.

kevs83yota [OP]

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #13 on: May 23, 2005, 01:53:26 PM »
They did work out perfect. it sits perferct anyway. But im defenatly going to need to drop the front hangers about 2 1/2".My pinion angle went to crap, i tried shims and and still to much angle. Another problem i ran into is the arm coming off the steering box is now right over the other rod on my hy steer because it moved the axle about 2+" forward. does anyone know who makes a shorter arm. They will hit under comprestion for sure. Here is a pic. of the chevies in the rear and the original alcan fronts. If the rear alcans up front work out, ill be selling theses ones.

« Last Edit: May 23, 2005, 01:58:07 PM by kevs83yota »

WHITE_TRASH

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #14 on: May 23, 2005, 01:56:45 PM »
You can swap out your stock pitman arm for one from a 2 wheel drive.  The apline count and size is the same but the 2x arm has a master spline so you'd need to grind 2 splines off of the sector shaft on the box for it to work.  Or www.sky-manufacturing.com sells a flat arm.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

blackdiamond

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2005, 03:45:08 PM »
It looks like the front Alcans flex better than the Chevy rears (i.e the chassis is closer to the angle of the rear axle housing).  Do you have a picture of the truck with the front end on the wall?  I thought the goal was 50/50 travel to keep the chassis as level as possible on obstacles.  I'm not seeing a problem with the front springs, do you think that they will keep you from going somewhere you want to go?  I would agree that amazing flex is major  :bling: but I'm not convinced that it is always practical.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

WHITE_TRASH

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2005, 04:03:38 PM »
Chevies suck on a light weight truck.  They work pretty well in the back of a runner due to the added weight of it.  The main reason that the front is working more than the rear because the front is loaded by the opposite corner being lifted....  My truck doesnt flex worth crap on a ramp but it works awesome on the trail. 
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

MiniSimp

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Re: rears to front question
« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2005, 05:29:14 PM »
Another problem i ran into is the arm coming off the steering box is now right over the other rod on my hy steer because it moved the axle about 2+" forward. does anyone know who makes a shorter arm.
Move your steering box forward 2" or more.

 
 
 
 
 

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