Topic: ‘82 22R engine white smoke

[Snowtoy]

I would NOT use a tap to clean the threads in the head.

There are very inexpensive THREAD CHASERS specifically for spark plug threads.

Gnarls.

Taps work just fine for chasing threads, been doing it for 30 plus years and have never had an issue with a tap removing any material or cross cutting new threads in aluminum.  Sure if you go at it carelessly you can screw up the threads, but the same is true for installing plugs, a compression tester, or any other bolt in aluminum.

[Snowtoy]

I have never noticed a sweet smell, but that doesn't mean anything.  I could just not be picking up on the smell.

If you are burning coolant, either through the head gasket or a cracked head, to be blowing noticeable white smoke, you should smell it in the exhaust.  It will have the same sweet smell like hot coolant does from a leaking radiator, or leaking hose/fitting that drips coolant onto a hot header or the block when hot does.

Are you still having issue with white smoke?  If so, can you post a pic/video of the amount you have on start up.

Checked my timing and it’s at 8 degrees, but when I disconnect the vacuum advance it doesn’t change.  I can feel the vacuum on the inner line so I know I have a bad vacuum advance on my distributor. Anyone know where I can get one?  Toyota doesn’t make them anymore

Inside the vacuum advance module, there is a baffle, the baffle is a cloth like material covered in rubber.  Over time, due to age, the rubber coating disintegrates, allowing air to pass through the base material.  You can repair the baffle by opening up the module, the metal edge is relatively easy to pry up with a screw driver, remove the baffle, remove the remaining degraded rubber coating, and recoat both sides of the baffle with RTV silicone sealant.

[Gnarly4X]

Taps work just fine for chasing threads, been doing it for 30 plus years and have never had an issue with a tap removing any material or cross cutting new threads in aluminum.  Sure if you go at it carelessly you can screw up the threads, but the same is true for installing plugs, a compression tester, or any other bolt in aluminum.

There is quite a bit of difference in design between a tap and a thread chaser.  Taps are for cutting, thread chasers are for chasing.

You can see how easy it would be to start a tap into a spark plug hole and end up cutting threads in the head.

It is well-known by most of us that it is NOT uncommon to cross thread a spark plug in these heads due to the angles of the spark plug holes - especially number 4 chamber.  I don't have very much experience with taps or thread chasers, so for my inexperience I'd probably screw up my head if I used a tap!!

Gnarls.

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

I checked my vacuum advance today. The inner one doesn’t hold vacuum while the outer one does.

[Snowtoy]

There is quite a bit of difference in design between a tap and a thread chaser.  Taps are for cutting, thread chasers are for chasing.

You can see how easy it would be to start a tap into a spark plug hole and end up cutting threads in the head.

Yes, I know there is a difference between the two, however, as long as you thread the tap in with your fingers, there should be no issue with cross threading, and as long as you don't apply downward force when using the tap wrench, you shouldn't remove any thread material.

It is well-known by most of us that it is NOT uncommon to cross thread a spark plug in these heads due to the angles of the spark plug holes - especially number 4 chamber.

That is normally due to using an extension and spark plug socket to install the plugs, and then just wrenching away, not realizing that the plug started out of alignment.  This is why you are supposed to start plugs, like any other bolt/nut by hand, so you don't cross thread them.

Compared to the #5 cylinder on a 3.0, the #4 on a 22re is a piece of cake.

[Lewis Hein]

Yes, I know there is a difference between the two, however, as long as you thread the tap in with your fingers, there should be no issue with cross threading, and as long as you don't apply downward force when using the tap wrench, you shouldn't remove any thread material.

That is normally due to using an extension and spark plug socket to install the plugs, and then just wrenching away, not realizing that the plug started out of alignment.  This is why you are supposed to start plugs, like any other bolt/nut by hand, so you don't cross thread them.

Compared to the #5 cylinder on a 3.0, the #4 on a 22re is a piece of cake.

Okay, that's close but not quite right. Taps come in different sizes for the same thread size, according to the desired tolerances of the final thread. While it is likely that the taps you have (if you got good ones) are the same tolerance class as the ones used to build your truck, I wouldn't count on it in all circumstances. If it's something where precision is important, go slow and easy and check for shavings in the tap threads.

As a final note, maybe it's just that my truck gets so dirty but if I can thread a tap in with my fingers I usually don't need to chase the threads in the first place.

https://www.mscdirect.com/basicsof/taps

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

I got the used vacuum advance in from yota yard yesterday.  It looks really rough, but I checked and it holds vacuum. 

[Snowtoy]

Okay, that's close but not quite right. Taps come in different sizes for the same thread size, according to the desired tolerances of the final thread. While it is likely that the taps you have (if you got good ones) are the same tolerance class as the ones used to build your truck, I wouldn't count on it in all circumstances. If it's something where precision is important, go slow and easy and check for shavings in the tap threads.

As a final note, maybe it's just that my truck gets so dirty but if I can thread a tap in with my fingers I usually don't need to chase the threads in the first place.

https://www.mscdirect.com/basicsof/taps

Yes, I have quality taps/dies, purchased as individual taps/dies to replace the lower quality ones I got in a kit.  Got tired of using the thread gauge to ID the tap or die needed, then finding the one in the kit is a little off to the thread gauge.

When I use one to chase a thread, it is usually due to the bolt or spark plug not threading all the way in easily, or to clean out a fastener in the frame/engine that was not used, but now has a need to have something bolted to it.