Author Topic: Help!!! I put gear oil in restrict pin w56 4runner 85  (Read 9138 times)

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emsvitil

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Oh.. crap....  :smack:..  all this time I thought that thing was a pressure sensor of some kind.  So, it's reverse switch? 

How does it work?  What activates it?  :dunno:

Gnarls.  :inthedark:




The reverse shift fork rod activates it.

Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

redneckcustoms13

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What he said. Just a normally open switch.
83 long bed 2wd sas, 3rz, w56, duals with 4.7 rear, 4.88 elock front, spartan rear, 39.5 iroks
01 double cab hunting truck
06 tacoma street truck

Willard

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Hey Willard,

Yeah... over the past 40 years or so, I've removed successfully a good number, probably not a butt load, of stuck bolts, twisted off bolts, rounded nuts, studs, and set screws with a chisel and hammer.

On my tranny, the drain plug was already semi-rounded from previous owners, so when I started I figured I may have trouble.  With the amount of torque I applied to it with all my tools, I was stunned that I could not turn it.  I figured there is no way hammering on it with a chisel was going to make it turn.  When I chipped a little bit of the tranny case around the plug hole I decided that fubar'ing it was not worth getting it out at that time.

Gnarls.
Yes at that point I would have been discouraged as well lol. I have also found that a small impact with air hammers makes a world of difference in seized bolts and related threaded components.


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90'4runner......lots of goodies.

mudmaster

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I've had success with an air hammer too with the pressure turned down.
Time to go wheelin!

Gnarly4X

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Yes at that point I would have been discouraged as well lol. I have also found that a small impact with air hammers makes a world of difference in seized bolts and related threaded components.


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Yeah... If I were to take a risk and try to remove it.  I would take my Dremel tool and cut small slot in it. Then use my air chisel, or impact tool to see if I could get it to turn??

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

God Bless Our Troops... Especially Our Snipers. The 2nd defends the 1st
MEMBER: WWP, T2T, VFW, NRA, GOA, SAF, Mammoth Nation, C2 Tactical, Hillsdale College, Humane Society of the U.S. - "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used to create them." ~ Albert Einstein

joeyf

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Just weld a socket onto it. Works for me every time. Don't go crazy on the welding, just good tacks around the hole socked. The heat from the tacks usually break's it loose enough to take it off by hand.

:)bestgen4runner

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Just weld a socket onto it. Works for me every time. Don't go crazy on the welding, just good tacks around the hole socked. The heat from the tacks usually break's it loose enough to take it off by hand.
Don't agree with this.
Aluminum case not a good idea in my opinion.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

joeyf

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If you are not comfortable with your welding skills I would agree with you to. But knowing the two metals will expand at different temps, it's easy to see you just need small tacks to break the plug loose. Your not welding the trans just using the heat to transfer to it. Just a suggestion, it's something I was taught.

Gnarly4X

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The tranny was at ambient temperature when I tried to remove filler plug, probably around 65 degrees that morning.  I *might* try to see it if will break loose after driving the truck on a hot day this summer.  The plug is steel and maybe the alloy case will be just hot enough to expand and allow that plug to turn.

But for now, I see no compelling reason to risk fubar’ing my transmission (I have already chipped the case), then having to pull it and take it to the shop and have the case replaced and then rebuilding it - I can painfully imagine an easy $1500 to $2,000 bill!

I think welding a socket on the plug is an option… but I agree with :)bestgen4runner, for ME, I would definitely not brag about my welding skills, although I was stick welding when I was about 14 years old. It would be my luck to touch the case with my wire feed and blow a hole in it!!  :yikes:

There is not very much space between the plug and the case to get even a tack bead on the plug.  Maybe a very skilled heliarc welder could tack a socket on it.  I could see maybe welding the end of a ˝” extension on the very end of the plug,   But, with amount of torque I applied to that plug and it still not moving, it will probably take some heat to break it loose.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.  :greengrin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

God Bless Our Troops... Especially Our Snipers. The 2nd defends the 1st
MEMBER: WWP, T2T, VFW, NRA, GOA, SAF, Mammoth Nation, C2 Tactical, Hillsdale College, Humane Society of the U.S. - "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used to create them." ~ Albert Einstein

 
 
 
 
 

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