Author Topic: Red's back, with an 82 2wd (Read 15574 times)

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #30 on:** Oct 04, 2016, 12:53:18 PM »

Sell the land cruiser axles or trade for normal toyota axles

red · « **Reply #31 on:** Oct 04, 2016, 03:47:51 PM »

I paid $100 for the pair. Finding a mini truck solid front axle is at least $350 with a rear for about $100 more. Converting the fj40 axles to disks with new parts would still be cheaper. Moving the fuel tank is not difficult.

Money wise it doesn't make sense to sell them.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #32 on:** Oct 04, 2016, 07:26:31 PM »

I guess parts value is different on your side of the country. We buy and sell 8" fronts for about 150-200 rears 100. Toyota 9" front sells for over a 1000 here.

red · « **Reply #33 on:** Oct 17, 2016, 04:06:07 PM »

Yea, price was probably just a lucky find for me. Has its downsides (course spline front outer shafts, drums, offset rear housing) that will be addressed as time goes on.

Leaking engine oil again

but not going to mess with it until the 2wd stuff is removed from the frame. Clears the way for easy access to the oil pan at that point.

Other than that the truck has a roughly 2k mile drive coming up. Sold a bunch of parts from the old military dump truck I've been parting out to some people up in Washington and Oregon. So will load the stuff into the pickup and drop it off up there next week.

Next 2 things to find is a set of rear leaf springs and crossover steering. Maybe snag a larger fuel tank at a junk yard from a suburban or tahoe, give this truck almost 1000 mile range haha.

Need to adjust the carb, the idle is just under 1500rpm once it warms up. At 800rpm when it first starts.

red · « **Reply #34 on:** Oct 27, 2016, 01:27:57 PM »

Poor little guy, doing the california lean for about 1000 miles haha. On the way back from Washington state ran into another 1st gen pickup, same tan color just 4x4 and in better looking condition.

Made the trip just fine, averaged about 27mpg cruising at 65-70mph. Noticed that the clutch started slipping some so that will need to be replaced at some point.

red · « **Reply #35 on:** Nov 11, 2016, 03:58:56 PM »

Got some quick modifications setup in the truck bed. Started off by adding a small tie down point to the bed of the truck in front of the driver side wheel well. Prevents the spare tire from kicking out and seems to be much more secure now.

On the other side went ahead and mounted/plumbed/wired for some onboard air. Used one of the spare air tanks I have lying around from an old military truck and a Viar compressor. Automatically shuts off at about 105psi and no leaks were found. The air hose is stored inside the cab for now.

The winch you see is a Mile Marker 4500 lb and will be mounted on this truck before long. It's going to be on the rear of the truck just not sure if it would be better to mount it at the front of the bed or underneath right behind the bumper.

red · « **Reply #36 on:** Nov 14, 2016, 09:58:53 AM »

Found a set of marlin crawler 4" lift leaf springs for the front axle, headed to check them out next week. He's asking $200 and they come with the stock front shackles. He also has a new front spring perch that he'll toss in for a little more but it's setup for a fullsize front axle.

I don't want the truck to be super tall, so thinking of running those 4" springs as a spring under setup. The fj40 axle is already designed for that so would save me the work of welding on new spring perches and getting the angle right.

red · « **Reply #37 on:** Nov 30, 2016, 04:26:32 PM »

Missed out on the 4" marlin springs but scored a new Aisin clutch kit for $50. The current clutch slips sometimes under heavy throttle so taking it easy with it for now, hoping it lasts until the snow melts around march hahaha. Sometime along the trip the muffler decided that it needed better flow and opened up some holes in it's body, so the truck sounds like a little street racer at the moment.

Drove the truck from Utah over to Oklahoma during the Thanksgiving holiday, traded some of the stock hydraulic brake parts and a spare transfercase from the military wrecker for a detroit locker and air brake parts (good upgrade). The toyota handled the weight well considering it was close to 1500 lbs on the drive down.

After the part swap in Oklahoma headed to Texas to visit family and picked up some more of my stuff. In total there was about 1000 pounds in the bed on the way back up. Added alot more small stuff after this picture.

During the drive I think I finally decided on what the overall mods to the truck will be. Going to try and save the stock bed or replace it with another long bed if a deal pops up for cheap. Make a soft top shell for the bed and a spot to setup a easily removable sleeping platform in the bed. A small tool box mounted in the bed.

With the drivetrain the SAS comes first once I get a set of springs and crossover steering parts. Will need to change tires/wheels at that point and planning to go with 32" tires. Will be looking for a transmission and tcase after that. Eventually either a doubler or set of 4.7 gears in 1 tcase.

Front bumper. Havent decided it going with tube (no stinger), or making a stronger bumper similar to the stock design. With the winch mounted in the rear the cable can be routed up front so no need for a front winch.

Repaint the truck. Thinking a metallic copper (think 'project copperhead' from back when Stacy David hosted Trucks) or a charcoal grey.

Engine swap to a diesel, most likely a mercedes OM617. Cheap, reliable, good power, better fuel economy, and I'm not a fan of gasoline hahaha. Thought about a Cummins 4bt but the conversion would cost much more because the toyota trans would need replacement, unlike the 617 the toyota trans is strong enough for it.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #38 on:** Dec 01, 2016, 08:39:50 AM »

Also a 4b is taller than the truck lol

Congill77 · « **Reply #39 on:** Dec 01, 2016, 10:39:37 AM »

Other then price what about the smaller 4 banger Cummins? The Isf2.8?

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red · « **Reply #40 on:** Dec 01, 2016, 02:44:57 PM »

Engine cost and having to change transmissions (more cost). Makes similar power to the older 4bt just smaller, lighter, quieter, and computer controlled. Supposedly with Cummins repower program that they are starting in 2017 https://cumminsengines.com/repower the 2.8 will be available with or without emissions equipment.

If you knew that getting rid of the truck was not going to happen for a long time or have the extra money available, that's a good engine choice. They have had some complaints with that motor in regions with extreme cold. At the SEMA show the reps were saying the estimated cost for the engine kit would be between 7-9,000. Engine, computer, wiring, throttle pedal, adapter plate to the transmission, all included with the kit. If I come across enough extra cash for that swap I'd do it, and sometime in the next few years when I'd be looking to do the swap it would be a possibility.

Edit
After some more research I'll stand corrected. The stock torque level of the 2.8 and 4bt (depending on options) is around 260ft/lbs of torque. The AX15 transmission that jeep uses is basically the same trans that toyota used behind the v6 and will survive typical use, according to Cummins unofficially. So, my diesel engine choice is undecided again haha. Will see how attached I am to the truck when the time comes and what kind of deal pops up.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #41 on:** Dec 02, 2016, 04:47:15 AM »

I weighed the options before doing a 3rz. I was leaning hard on the vw manual injection pump engine. Just cost made me keep it a sissy engine with spark plugs

helipilot77 · « **Reply #42 on:** Dec 02, 2016, 05:58:28 AM »

Quote from: redneckcustoms13 on Dec 02, 2016, 04:47:15 AM

I weighed the options before doing a 3rz. I was leaning hard on the vw manual injection pump engine. Just cost made me keep it a sissy engine with spark plugs

I've seen some VW swaps that turned out very nice. I was considering it myself. But my OCD required that I keep it all Toyota.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #43 on:** Dec 02, 2016, 06:03:20 AM »

Sorry to hijack red

I agree, the 1kzte is cool just out of my budget. But then again so was the vw lol

red · « **Reply #44 on:** Dec 02, 2016, 09:26:09 AM »

Haha no worries on a hijack, makes for more discussion. Each motor swap has it's benefits. I'm not a fan of gas engines and having worked as a diesel/hydraulic mechanic in the oilfield that has increased my bias away from gasoline even more.

The engines swaps I thought about were 2L, 1kzte, VW TDI, OM617, Cummins 4BT and when I learned about it 2.8 ISF. For heavy towing I have the wrecker but for everything else this truck needs to be able to handle it. The stock 22R did ok with these loads but eventually it will be towing some weight in the 2-4k pound range. So figuring the 22R is about 150ft/lbs torque and handled an extra 1200 lbs ok, not great but ok, a goal of 200-250ft/lbs torque should be perfect for me at speeds of 65-70mph.

Because of towing considerations the 2L was dropped from the list. Same power as the 22R and not able to be economically turned up much higher so I no longer considered it.

1kzte swap would cost about the same as a OM617, just easier to find a 617. 617 is a tight fit.

TDI swap costs a bit more, good performance upgrades, compact package. Costs a little less than a 4bt or 2.8 ISF swap (since a trans upgrade is not necessary). More than a 617 swap. Kinda leery of swapping this in since VW had that lawsuit and is buying back these motors so parts availability could be a concern to me.

4bt is heavy and tall but people have installed them in this body style truck so it does fit. No need for performance upgrades since a v6 trans is just about at it's max with the stock power at roughly 260ft/lbs. Very loud engine and it needs good quality hydraulic motor mounts.

2.8 ISF, best in my opinion besides the cost. Compact package, efficient, great power in stock form, reasonable weight, not incredibly noisy. Cost is the downside because the ISF has not been offered in the US until 2017 with the Cummins repower program. You can buy them from China and have it shipped or wait until the repower program has officially started.

So economically the 617 is the cheapest to install and makes a little extra torque, about 170ft/lbs stock. Couple cheap tweaks to the injection pump and turbo puts it up around 200ft/lbs. Above that is a injection pump modification for larger plungers which will cost over 1k. So figuring picking up a used motor for 700-1000, transmission adapter for 500, total swap cost would be in the 2000-2500 range with modification time for the core support, hood latch, and transmission crossmember. Add in a injection pump upgrade puts it at 3000-3500 if the 200ft/lbs torque is not enough. Thats right around the cost for a 4bt swap. Those costs are estimated for a running used engine with plenty of miles left to go (200,000 miles on it out of a 400,000 mile lifespan), figure in a rebuild for either the om617 or 4bt at 2000-2500 extra. Figuring the cost of a 2.8 ISF at 7,000 brand new from Cummins with the adapter plate, computer, and the ease of install due to it's compact size makes it a viable option.

So figuring in a worst case scenario rebuild, I'd either go cheaper with the OM617 or spend a bit extra for the 2.8ISF. 617 is simple mechanical and I would have to do the repairs with no warranty, the 2.8 will come with a warranty from Cummins. 617 has the benefits of lower cost and simplicity but will require performance upgrades, much more engine bay modifications for fitment, and less fuel economy than the 2.8. 2.8 will require much less fabrication to make it fit and should net excellent fuel economy with the option to upgrade power if ever needed over the stock 265ft/lbs torque.

Video from Dirt Every Day, they installed one of these 2.8ISF motors into a jeep.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icp2Pb5uoME

Congill77 · « **Reply #45 on:** Dec 02, 2016, 09:38:09 AM »

I'm glad you knew about DED in an upcoming episode the test the jeep wheeling against a 4.0 and a 5.3 vortec swap. They noticed that the ifs would pull up a hill in 5th where the other 2 would have to be dropped down a gear. They did have an issue when the oil pan met a rock and lost, due the the "high strength polymer carbonate" plastic oil pan.

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red · « **Reply #46 on:** Dec 12, 2016, 09:47:35 PM »

Found a set of stock leaf springs from a fj60 not too far away for cheap, planning to go check them out. Thinking of using the rear springs up front (supposed to measure about 48") and take the leaves from the front pack and add them to the stock pickup rear pack if needed.

Was not planning to pick up anything for a engine swap for awhile but might have a deal worked out, details to follow.

red · « **Reply #47 on:** Dec 14, 2016, 12:50:54 PM »

Picked up the fj60 springs, look to be in pretty good shape. Came with the shackles as well.

One more piece for the SAS. Still need Ubolts, spring perches for the axles, front spring hanger, and crossover steering parts.

red · « **Reply #48 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 10:29:23 AM »

Quote from: Congill77 on Dec 02, 2016, 09:38:09 AM

I'm glad you knew about DED in an upcoming episode the test the jeep wheeling against a 4.0 and a 5.3 vortec swap. They noticed that the ifs would pull up a hill in 5th where the other 2 would have to be dropped down a gear. They did have an issue when the oil pan met a rock and lost, due the the "high strength polymer carbonate" plastic oil pan.

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Here's a link to that episode. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6H5dM-hxdU It's a great choice and I think it's going to be a popular swap.

Looking like the SAS will happen in march. Will have a week off from college at that point so it's a good chance to get that project taken care of and can afford the cross over steering at that point haha. That is half of the cost all by itself.

red · « **Reply #49 on:** Jan 30, 2017, 04:09:24 PM »

Until yesterday there hasn't been much going on with the truck, just driving to/from the college and other daily use. Yesterday noticed that the battery was showing less than 12 volts. Alternator started making some noise as well.

red · « **Reply #50 on:** Mar 02, 2017, 02:52:36 PM »

Well last night was rough for the truck. One of the hoses running to the radiator decided to split and overheated the motor.

Patched the hose and topped off the coolant for a test start today. Managed to get the truck to start which took alot of extra cranking but it finally fired up. Ran very rough for a few seconds then smoothed out to normal. After about 15-20 seconds of idle it started to run rough again and finally stalled out. Went to loosen the radiator cap and coolant system was extremely pressurized so I'm thinking that the head gasket blew. No milkshake in the oil that I can see.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #51 on:** Mar 02, 2017, 05:49:43 PM »

Top off with coolant. Leave cap off. Let's it run a few seconds. Wrap the throttle and see of you get a geyser out of the radiator.

red · « **Reply #52 on:** Mar 02, 2017, 06:07:12 PM »

It was a nice geyser coming out of the radiator haha.

Being march now winter is almost over. Debating whether to just toss in a new gasket/head bolts so it's driving again or park it for now and decide what to do with it.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #53 on:** Mar 02, 2017, 06:43:19 PM »

Did you ever get a diesel?

red · « **Reply #54 on:** Mar 02, 2017, 09:02:43 PM »

Not yet. Had to replace the water heater at my rental house back in Texas so it has delayed the engine swap. It's a OM617 that one of the members here has available.

That house is probably going up for sale soon, housing market in that area (Midland) is booming again so should be able to gain a nice profit there.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #55 on:** Mar 02, 2017, 09:54:29 PM »

Sorry to hear about the bad luck, red! I would be incredibly interested in pulling and checking the head for flat and putting it back in use

red · « **Reply #56 on:** Mar 05, 2017, 09:23:53 PM »

Plenty of time to decide it's fate. First thing with the projects is installing the air brake conversion on the military wrecker over the next few weeks. Then it will be the pickup's turn.

What I'm thinking is to pull the 22r out. Between the slipping clutch, oil pan leak, timing cover leak, and the head gasket it would be much easier to work on it out of the engine bay. Should get a call from the realtor this week to find out what he thinks the house could sell for and decide from there.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #57 on:** Mar 05, 2017, 09:40:21 PM »

Agreed, most stuff is just easier to do on an engine stand. My 91 needs a clutch and valve stem seals, but toyota decided to weld the tranny crossmember to the frame on the newer trucks, so dropping the tranny to do the clutch is very hard without a lift. Since it's super easy to pull these engines anyway, I'm just going to wait till I have a reliable backup vehicle and take it to a friends, pull the engine, swap the clutch and deal with whatever is needed on the head. Planning to just pull it and lap the valves anyway, replace timing chain set and anything else that needs it, clean and paint block and plop back in. Even bought rings just incase I get sassy

red · « **Reply #58 on:** Mar 05, 2017, 10:11:16 PM »

New rings and lapping the valves, this engine won't get that kinda love from me hahaha. I'll admit I haven't had the best luck with the 22r/re engines and transmission. Lost 5th gear in the 87 4runner I had then the coolant hose running underneath the thermostat (?) split on a late night highway drive and locked up that engine. Now this 22r. Think the original Top Gear guys should have sent me to test the hilux, just cruising on the highway at 65mph I can kill these haha.

Recent plans for the truck depends on the house value and how long it takes to sell.
1. Value not high enough so keep the house for now. Pull the 22r, fix the oil leaks/clutch/head gasket and stuff it back in.

2. Make some profit on the house. Pull the body off the truck to fix rusty floors and paint the underside of the cab, engine bay, frame, fix 22r.

3. Big profit on the house. Body work, do the SAS, diesel swap.

Lifting of the engine/body is simple with the wrecker. 18ft reach and 20k capacity on the crane.

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