Topic: 22re to 3.4 swap--4runner

[attitude of gratitude]

I've been wanting to post on this for awhile, but my camera was broke. So I went and bought a cheapy. Hope the pics aren't to bad.  I had access to a couple of 5vz motors and a few misc. parts for them, so I rebuilt one and put it in my 88 4runner. I researched everywhere online. I will list what I used and web sites as I remember and are asked. I also am not using anything ORS, as they are out of bussiness. I'm sure everyone knows that.

  I knew I could'nt use the transmission I had (w56), so I found a r150 from a 94 4runner. At the time I was going to adapt my case to it. But funds have gone alittle low and I will be using the chain case for now. A w56 shifter will not work for a r150 also found that out. I had to find a crossmember , as the V6 style has a horseshoe shape to it, to clear the T-case.  A 90 automatic fit it perfect.  The motor mounts on the frame also have to be changed to v6(3.0) style or cut off and move back about 4 inches. I just ordered the whole v6 motor mount brackets, marked and cut off the old ones. Then tacked and test fit the motor.  Also had to buy motor mount brackets for the block, fan and shroud, t-stat housing, high pressure p/s hose(non abs style) Edelman 91679, radiator and the lower block to trans brackets. All those parts must be from a 3.0.  Or atleast in my case had to be. The Tacoma fan and shroud are to big.  Also use a 3.0 throwout bearing if using a older style r150. I used  a 3.4 clutch kit. I had to get a 3.0 clutch hard line from the master cylinder and relocate it. The old 22re line and bracket hit the knew motor in the back.  I've read you can use a 3.0 alt. But I did'nt want to try and also the 3.4 seemed to be more plentiful. P/s pump I believe must come a 3.4. I'm not using the A/C. So I know nothing about the mounting or anything on that. Hell, I don't use it in my 09 Camry. Also I've read conflicting stories on which oil pan to use. Everyone agrees that the 2wd T100 pan and pick-up is the safest for clearance. I read where some guys used the 3.0 pans. I just know the motor I had was from a 4runner and that pan was going to get it, so I found a 2wd t100 pan.

  I had to find a wiring harness. And one with part number on it still. With not having a donor vehicle for the motor harness,evap and accessories. Matching stuff up was alittle tricky. First off the vin number is on the 3.4 motrs. It's behind the timming cover, by the water pump. A harness with a part number will let you know the production date it was used. I found this site to be more useful than my parts manager. http://www.toyotapartszone.com/
 I found a good harness locally from a 96 sr5 tacoma 5sp, but no ecm. I fiqured out when the harness was used and what computer was used that same time. Found a computer on http://www.car-part.com/. So we'll see if I'm right here shortly. Also had to get the Alt. battery harness from toyota. I most deffinetly could have made this for cheaper.
   
   For the exhaust crossover I used a early style one. I cut it up and swapped the pipes around to get it to exit on the driverside. I found this on Yotatech and did it. http://www.yotatech.com/f160/build-your-own-3-4-crossover-pipe-138902/   I did not need the extra piece of pipe though. I tacked it together and made sure the bellhousing fit, then had a friend who welds for a living finish it up. I did'nt get pics before the install, sorry. I'll try to get in the back and get some tomarrow. Used a 96 Tacoma front pipe, Catco cat 9067, Walker mid-pipe for a long bed Tacoma and 18" Thrush muffler. Which I think is goin to be to loud.  Yotatech has some good articles, but most the threads them just dead end and the vehicles magically start running or fix themselves. At least in their 3.4 swap section.


  The radiator, P/S hose, Mid-pipe and cat. converter  I found on http://www.rockauto.com   The drive shafts have to be reworked also. The rear is getting lenthened by about 3 inches. My front is square so I'll shorten it some. Here's some pics. I'll keep you posted on updates and the wiring. I hope to get lots of pics of the wirrng to help anybody down the road.  I think my wife would rather find me lookin at porn, than anymore offroad websites or Ebay.

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

I can't get my pics to post.

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

Here's some again. Sorry I don't know how

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

I flipped the fuel lin around to go to the pass. side and routed a return line also. You can see the fuel line not hooked up in the pic. I think I got the pic thing fiqured out.

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

 I had to move the fuse box back about 4 inches for the air box to clear. No big deal, wires had enough slack in them. Hers a pic of the clutch line, the P/S return line routed in front of the radiator, P/S pressure line under the fan and the alt. wire in. The wiring was the same for it between the 2. Just match colors to colors. Also the starter wire is in that harness. I still have to run it.

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

Heres the charcoal canister. I had to massage the fender for it to clear the hood. Also found out that early evap canisters had the vsv for the pressure sensor built into the body harness. I found the connector on a scrap vehicle luckily. Early model trucks and 4runners also had the evap stuff under the hood. Later had it all at the tank.

[slc_toyota]

i really want to do this

[axled89]

sweet job looks real clean.   and of course how does it run???

[b0x]

Niice job. I need to find a totaled Taco so I can get that done. Congrats!

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

I did get it running this evening. The wiring wasn't to bad. Just the circuit opening relay kinda messed me up for awhile. I'll get some pics and try to explain it.  It runs great, just seems to be idling a little high. I had to get a 4 wire style(early version) throttle body and never checked it before I put it on. It looks like somebody has been turning the screws on it and messing with the throttle stop. I'll set it tomarrow.

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

And I still also have to the tach mod. I'm alittle leary of this. But everyone seems to say it works.                         http://www.yotatech.com/f160/tach-problems-22ret-5vz-195749/

[Yota87Truck]

WOW, sweet!!! nice job.  Keep up the good work and the posts along with!

[axled89]

congrates on the getting it running part.

[flyinsquirel]

I had the same problem with my 3.4 idleing a little high.  Try pulling forward(toward the radiatior) on the throttle butterfly.  I ended up rigging a small spring to put constant pressure on mine & it works great.  Your other option would be to get a new TB.

[MC387]

I had to do the Tach mod, and get a converter to make my tach read correctly.  Nice work.  What radiator are you running?

[attitude of gratitude [OP]]

The wiring is really not the bad. Toyota used round about the same color of wires between the 2 vehicle even though there is 15 years difference. The 5vz computer is wired to turn on the same as the 22re. It's just a matter of finding the pins you need to use. The body harness,  that stays with vehicle(connector V on my 4runner), has all the power wires you need to use for the computer except 1 for the OBDII plug.  You do need to have the 5vz body harness connector for the computer. It does not come with the engine harness.  This is where the majority of wire swapping goes on. The circuit opening relay is kinda different between the 2 vehicle. The original way it was wired it made the circuit through the air flow meter to keep the fuel pump running when the engine would start. It's a green and yellow wire on my body harness and on the new Tacoma harness. I found the green and yellow wire going into the computer at one of the engine harness plugs, and Teed into it from off the circuit opening relay. I hope that kinda makes since. Evertime I took a pic of it, it came out blurry. I hooked everything up with butt connectors and scotch locks temporarely. I am going back through and soldering when I am sure everthing is where it is goin to be. You must have both Toyota EWD's to do this. It's not impossible if you don't but it would make life a lot easier. The pin location reference is the most help. I'll answer what I can if anybody has a question.

  I also did the Tach mod. Since the motor now has 3 coils the signal needs alittle help. I removed the cluster and the tach and soldered in a 10k ohm , 1/4, 5% impedence resistor. I reinstalled everting and noticed that it was showing about 1000 rpm's more than the motor was actually doing. I had to adjust the potentiometer. Which was pretty cool. All it is, is alittle white plastic screw behind the tach. You have to leave the speedo out and let the engine run to adjust it. It takes very little to get it to move. http://www.yotatech.com/f160/tach-problems-22ret-5vz-195749/

  Also had to make a battery tray. No big deal, just some 1/2 angle and square stock. and the factory hold down had to be altered(hammer and vise) a bit.

[TacoStewie]

nice swap doing one in my 95 4runner. this has been lots of help.  what did you do for your oil psessure switch (did your 4runner have a gauge in the dash?)

[dntsdad]

hey I am not him but I have done the same swap.

You will just take your oil pressure sender from the 3.0 and it swaps right in. Join the wires in the kick panel.

My build up thread is http://www.yotatech.com/f160/had-officially-began-3-0-auto-3-4-manual-92-ex-cab-196823/

Let me know if I can help

Jason