Topic: 22RE Engine Troubleshooting Help

[JD]

Total noob here, so please be advised.

I have been noticing an engine clicking sound lately when I first start up. Very rapid, it almost sounds too rapid to be a single valve, since the clicks seem to occur every time the engine fires. The noise usually goes away after the engine warms up. I was hoping it was either the water pump or alternator, so I disconnected the fan belt, but I still get the sound. So I assume it's engine-related, possibly the valves need adjusting? Does this sound reasonable or are there other possibilities?

Also, I have been noticing an engine rumble lately as well, which I'm not sure is related. Whenever I let off the gas, regardless of what gear I'm in, when the engine begins to slow down I get sort of a "rumble" similar to when a big rig uses it's engine to slow down (not as loud of course). Could this be related? Both things appeared roughly about the same time, though the rumble seemed to appear right after I broke a fan belt and overheated on a very hot day.

Assuming I need to adjust my valves, is there a good guide somewhere? And do I need a special wrench to turn the engine while doing this? Thanks in advance and pardon my inexperience. The truck has run so well for me so far that I haven't had to do much work on it.

[*ROKTOY*]

Try adjusting the valves, not special wrench is needed, get a service manual.

[MiniSimp]

Adjust the valves cold at .07 intake and .011 exhaust.

[JD [OP]]

Thanks, I'll try that. Do you think the rumble while decellerating is also related to the valves?

[MiniSimp]

Don't know, but if you adjust the valves then you'll find out.

[84pickup]

how many miles are on the engine? if the timing chain guides haven't been changed out and upgraded to the steel guides, it could be the chain slapping against the timing chain cover before the tensioner has oil pressure to tension. my .02

[JD [OP]]

Engine has 200k, and the timing chain guide already broke once at around 100k and was replaced (with another plastic one, unfortunately).

[84pickup]

if i remeber right the plastic ones are only good for about 100K but i've got a 92 RE that i just swapped into my 84 that has about 140K on it and hasn't had the guides go out. but i'm gonna be doing them in a few days cause i hydrolocked the engine and blew the HG just barely enough to get water in the oil.

[JD [OP]]

My understanding is that when you adjust the valves, you have to advance the engine to a certain position before you make the adjustments on one set of valves, then you turn the engine a full revolution and adjust the other set. How do you do this, by cranking the engine over and over until it stops in just the right spot? Or can you use a big crescent wrench, or what?

[highridin4x4]

Here is a link to some factory service manuals. They should help.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Scott

[Snowtoy]

What you are referring to is setting the engine at top dead center.  You use a socket and ratchet and turn the crank by hand until you line up the match mark on the crank pulley to the 0* timing cover.  It is easier to do if you pull the spark plugs, but it isn't necessary.  This '93FSM will be helpful, IIRC, it shows how to set the engine to TDC, as well as which set of intake and exhaust valves get adjusted on the first pass, as well as those on the second pass.

[84pickup]

yep that's how you do it. if i remember correctly then, the first pass you go the valves for No. 1 cylinder need to be tight and No. 4 loose and then on the intake side you do the first two and on the exhaust side you do No. 1 valve and then No. 3. then you rotate the engine one revolution and do all the other valves. it's been a while for me so i could be wrong but i know it's something like that.

[JD [OP]]

Hey, thanks for all the helpful replies. I'm in the process of beginning the job, however the valve cover is completely stuck and it it won't budge, even though all the bolts I can see are removed. Any suggestions?

Also, the valve cover bolts were VERY loose, are they supposed to be this way?

[MiniSimp]

Tap it with a rubber mallet from all sides to loosen it up.

[JD [OP]]

Thanks, I got it finally. After about an hour of banging and prying, I decided to try warming up the engine first, and it came right off.

[Snowtoy]

You really don't ever want to pry engine parts off, since you will usually damage both pieces.

The Valve cover is nuts aren't supposed to be all that tight, when you reinstall them they are to be torqued to 52inlbs.  If you don't have an inch pound torque wrench, just hand tighten them using a 1/4" ratchet w/the head of the ratchet centered in your palm.

[JD [OP]]

OK more problems, I was adjusting the very last exhaust valve, and somehow managed to strip the rocker arm. I had not noticed those things were made out of aluminum. 

Are these easy to find? Or would I have to go to a Toyota dealer to get one? It looks like they're probably a huge pain to replace, but I'm just worried about finding one for now.

[JD [OP]]

I am VERY tempted to just use some Locktite on that rocker arm, knowing that I'll have to replace it the next time I adjust the valves. The threads are shot, yes, but there is plenty of surface area inside that arm, that I'm extremely tempted, and wonder if it might just hold.

However, there's a lot of heat that screw is gonna be exposed to in there, and I don't know if Locktite was designed to withstand that. And the consequences of having it go flying off inside there would be major.

Plus I have other no way to get to work on Monday morning, so that's another factor.  

[emsvitil]

Is there enough room for 2 jam nuts on the valve side, then

2 jam nuts on the adjuster side.......


If not 1 jam nut and locktite....  (not sure about the locktite with the heat)

[Snowtoy]

You can get new adjustment screws at the dealer, NAPA might have them on hand, but not likely.  You can also usually order them through Engine Builder.  You might as well as order enough to replace them all.  Often the screw gets a worn spot in them which can cause the adjustment to reset itself to the worn spot overtime.  It doesn't take a lot of force to tighten them up, the torque value is only 18ftlbs.

[JD [OP]]

I think the adjustment screw may be all that's stripped, actually. Thanks, I'll check the dealer in town tomorrow, and if they have any, maybe ride my bike over there and pick up a set. Hopefully the rocker arm is OK. I think it probably is, now that I think about how hard it would be to strip out a full inch of threads in there with the amount of torque I was applying.

[Snowtoy]

The parts counter wont likely be open tomorrow at the dealership.  If none of the local parts store carry them and you can't wait until Monday, you might check your local pick-in-pull/wrecking yard, or craigslist.com for your area, and get a used one.

[JD [OP]]

OK, I ordered 8 new rocker arm screws ($50) and replaced them today. A couple of the rocker arm screws were semi-stripped and the heads a bit worn, so it's probably good I replaced them all.  Still getting the engine clicking sound at start up, it sounds terrible, but goes always away after about a minute or so. But when I start up again, even it the engine is warm, it comes back. Oh well, at least I have good power, and everything else seems to be working OK.

I did track down the engine rumble I was getting while decellerating though. It was a big 3" air intake vent that goes from the fan shroud to the air cleaner that had been disconnected. I reconnected it and that's gone. I had knocked it loose while messing with the fan belt.

[84pickup]

that clicking sounds like the chain against the guides to me. did you take a look at the chain at all while you had the valve cover off?

[Plekto]

IME, putting Lucas oil conditioner or something similar makes a big difference in how much noise it makes.  Mine now makes a little noise at first if it's been sitting more than 3-4 hours, but less than that and it's quiet.(obvious oil circulation issue since it goes away in about 5-8 seconds)

[JD [OP]]

I looked at the chain and guides. Chain seemed nice and tight and guide was intact as far as I could tell.

Clicking seems to be gone for now. Maybe I just had to break everything in, because after going for a test drive, everything seems fine. I did mess with the timing a little bit too. So I'm just gonna cross my fingers.

I did screw up putting the valve cover on the first time though. The little half-circle-shaped rubber seal had fallen inside. I saw the one in the front, and re-installed it OK, I did not realize there was one of those in the back of the valve cover too. So when I started the engine, oil was gushing out all over the transmission. But once I got that back in place, I was good to go.  

Thanks very much for all the help. I have my new Rustoleum paint job, and my engine running smoothly (for now). What more could a guy ask for?

[84pickup]

glad to hear it's all fixed!