Author Topic: SD22 Diesel Questions/ progress pics (Read 19271 times)

boggerunner · « **on:** Jan 21, 2007, 09:09:46 PM »

so my buddy got his sd22 motor and tranny layin on his garage floor, he is wondering how u turned the fuel pump up, and did u get rid of the butterfly valve on the intake?

Also what turbo are u rinning, do u think a toyota ct 20, or ct 26 would work better, or mabey a ct20/26 hybred?
also where are u getting the oil supply and return for the turbo?

kneedownnate · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 21, 2007, 10:50:14 PM »

From what I've heard in the past, you'll probably wanna steer clear of both of those turbos. Ct26 would be better, but by how much I don't know.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 04:05:15 AM »

If you are going to turbo it you only need to remove the rail stop cover and adjust the rail stop screw. It hits the inside of the cover so you need to make sure you put it back on.

I you are not going to turbo it you need to adjust the plungers. (This is very touchy and is easy to throw the flow rates all out of whack) I do not recommend this unless you know what you are doing and have a way to flow test it.

I would recommend you find a shop the rebuilds diesel injection pumps and discuss this with them.

The pump is not designed to use without the throttle plate, it is vacuum actuated. I haven't yet figured out how to modify it to work relyably and have the governor work properly.

I do not know anything about the turbos you listed, but I can tell you that I used a turbo for a 3.0L V6 gas and it is a bit big. It takes a little too long to spool up but will reach 20 psi when it gets there.

If you picked one for a smaller gas motor and increased the compressor side it should boost quicker and do more good at low end.

If you have anymore questions you should start a thread so others that might know something will see it and be able to help.

$Beer Chug\'n$

boggerunner · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 09:42:08 AM »

how much boost do u think is safe for this motor. and more on the govenor, with out the butterfly plate does it try to run away on u. is the pump vacume controlled from the intake manifold, there might be a way to build a controll to the pump, and get rid of all the unnessacary stuff. got any pics of the supply and return lines?

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 04:04:58 PM »

10 to 15 psi should be safe. The problem is over revving between shifts. the higher the boost the faster you must shift to keep the engine together. Letting off the throttle only closes the throttle valve. It isn't till the boost dies down that the pump shuts down the fuel rate. So the engine wants to keep revving.

I am running 7 psi and that seems to be a good setting for now. I would like to see 25 psi about 1000 rpm over an idle, but till I can get the pump to work the way a true diesel is supposed to work it is not going to happen.

I have seen this thing lay down rubber from the 38's in 2nd gear at 25 psi, but I also have heard valves and pistons touching each other and that is not a good sound.

The pump shuts down the fuel flow on vacuum from the manifold. If you remove the throttle valve there will be no vacuum to keep it from going to full throttle.

Also there is no direct linkage on the pump for which to control the throttle.

If you have positive manifold pressure the diaphragm in the pump has an over center spring that will add extra fuel under boost.

If you try to modify the pump to to work manually the governor will not come into play until you let off the throttle.

There maybe other parts for these pumps from a differant application that can convert them to a manual throttle, but I don't know of any at this time.

boggerunner · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 06:29:09 PM »

got any pics of where u routed the oil supply and return lines for the turbo?

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 08:07:19 PM »

No pictures detailing this, but there is a tee in the oil sending unit hole that feeds the turbo and the return is tee'd into the oil return for the vacuum pump on the back of the alt.

Sorry to have moved your posts, but I thought it would be better suited in it's thread.

boggerunner · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 08:08:47 PM »

cool, sorry about cluttering up your buildup, all the help is appreciated

boggerunner · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 08:11:44 PM »

so i was just informed that he dropped the motor off the cherrypicker, and without an oil pan, any chance u might know where to get a new oil pump since he killed his, or is it a one of a kind not made anymore and not available anywhere pump?
im gonna head over there in a few to asses the damage

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 22, 2007, 08:32:19 PM »

You should be able to order one from the dealer or any other parts house.

I doubt anybody will have it in stock.

Here is a picture discription of where the pump is.

boggerunner · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 25, 2007, 09:24:18 AM »

So the oil pump is trashed and i found one online for $90 and i think we are gonna use a w56 tranny, got one layin around, and i have a friend that can weld aluminum

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 25, 2007, 07:58:29 PM »

"Retyping do to board crashing"

You have to move the starter cone, and add for bolt holes. You will also need to have a pilot bushing made to mate the small Toyota input shaft to the Nissan crank.

Take the flywheel off and use a caliper from the pilot hole on the crank and scribe a circle on the backing plate.

Tack weld a piece of sheet metal to the backing plate and find the center. Drill a hole the size of the input shaft.

Put the backing plate on the trans and line up so it will sit correctly making sure there is no side loading on the input shaft.

This will show you where you need to add for the bolts and help with moving the starter cone.

It might be easier if you start with a bellhousing from a 1980 IH Scout II with a SD33. This is the same engine except it is a 6cly.

You will need to figure out how to mate it to the trans. I know it should work, but have not done it yet.

boggerunner · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 25, 2007, 08:07:19 PM »

cant find that bellhousing anywhere, any clues where to find it?

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 25, 2007, 08:13:17 PM »

www.car-parts.com I had found one there before, but did not buy it. They show no listing at this time. :boo:

Just going to have to do a search ad find something.

Good luck.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 25, 2007, 08:24:54 PM »

If you can pull off the bellhousing modification I think you will be happier with that. Otherwise there is no telling what you will need to do for clutch linkage and the rest.

boggerunner · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 06, 2007, 07:33:27 PM »

well my friend took the easier route, he is running the nissan 2wd 5 spd with a divorced sammy t-case, the motor is runnin a ct20 turbo off a 22rte and has a full 3" exhaust, tranny and t-case crossmembers are built, and now it just needs drive shafts, and the new oil pump is on the way. The oil pan is hanging down too low, so we are gonna run rears up front and some lift leaves in the back, i will get some pics of the progress this weekend. this is goint to be one sweet 82 yota

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 07, 2007, 04:12:34 AM »

The 4x4 trany has a short tailshaft if that helps any. The front housings are interchangeable so you could use the 4x4 trany in the 2x4 front housing so it will bolt to the SD22.

The only difference is the started location and the bolt pattern on the bellhousing.

Yes, we need pics of the progress.

boggerunner · « **Reply #17 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 08:25:54 PM »

got some progress pics, here is what he has got done so far

boggerunner · « **Reply #18 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 11:20:40 PM »

and the rest

boggerunner · « **Reply #19 on:** Feb 09, 2007, 11:21:45 PM »

boggerunner · « **Reply #20 on:** Feb 10, 2007, 10:41:51 PM »

today he put a lift on it, rears up front and some 5" skyjacker freebees in the rear, it has a little rake, but with a spare and rollbar and some spare gear in the back it might sit level

black92se · « **Reply #21 on:** Apr 17, 2007, 06:31:12 PM »

Here is the down pipe I built for my turbo set-up, Its completely bolt on to the engine so I can take the turbo off and run it NA if I ever wanted to at any time. Was also very easy to build, only a couple hours.

I would like to see how you adjusted the smoke screw some, I want to run about 10PSI and I should be done with the first phase of this swap by the week-end. As I understand it might work well just the way it is, but the only good source for this info has went offline in the past 2 weeks when I started this.

black92se · « **Reply #22 on:** Apr 22, 2007, 04:13:41 PM »

Ok, ran mine, I can easily hit 1000 degrees at 5psi trying to keep 55 in 5th gear. Any suggestions?

boggerunner · « **Reply #23 on:** Aug 25, 2007, 09:54:20 PM »

use a bigger turbo

red · « **Reply #24 on:** Aug 26, 2007, 09:12:26 PM »

sounds like your exhaust is not flowing well enough. since your running 3" pipe for this motor (unless you have many hard bends) i'd say you need to either open up the exhaust manifold, or use a more free flowing turbo (most likely needs a different turbo). with that turbo down pipe that you made, that u-turn probably allows the exhaust to sit for a moment and create even more heat. if you can route the downpipe and exhaust in a more straight way with only minor bends then i would try that 1st.

boggerunner · « **Reply #25 on:** Oct 30, 2007, 05:25:59 PM »

so he blew up the nissan motor, overheated it, so now it has an isuzu diesel out of a 4wd pickup with the sammy t-case behind it so he has divorced duals, and he is keeping this one naturally aspirated

boggerunner · « **Reply #26 on:** May 30, 2008, 11:09:01 PM »

here are some pics of how this truck looks now, and the isuzu diesel is also turbo'ed

Yota87Truck · « **Reply #27 on:** Jun 01, 2008, 06:39:13 PM »

that is awsome, i would love a turbo diesel toy

deepmud · « **Reply #28 on:** Oct 04, 2008, 10:28:59 PM »

Did he blow up the new one yet?

How's the gearing with the Samurai reduction in high? If too low, there is the Nissan divorced tcase to think about.

There's alway the vw swap to try if this one goes kaboom

boggerunner · « **Reply #29 on:** Oct 05, 2008, 11:50:05 AM »

still running strong, but the highway gearing sucks, top speed is about 50 mph. the fuel pump is cranked up and its pulling 25 lbs of boost. i think he would be better off running some 35" tires and mabey getting another 5-10 mph out of it

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