Topic: overheatin on the interstate

[Tallchevy]

Putting the fan blades on backwards does not reverse the airflow.

It makes the curve of the blade backwards, which pretty much makes the fan useless.   The airflow will still be in the correct direction, but probably about 25% of what it was.

Think about it, the blades are cupped & angled for a reason. With the blades on backwards, the fan will be pushing the air forward (from the engine compartment to the grill) rather than pulling the air through the radiator (from the outside). With the fan clutch engaged & the engine hot, your sucking the hot air from around the engine & trying to pushing it through an already hot radiator. You need to have the much cooler air from outside the engine compartment.

Check & make sure you fan is on so it's pulling the air from the outside.

[1stgenboy]

well Mr.  i can tell you when i rebuilt my engine  everything was new, the radiator was brand new, the water pump,  the fan and fan clutch,  the block was boiled out at the machine shop, as well as the head, and  yes  the thermostat was also a new toyota unit.

now  since your new i'll let you know  some specs, 22R bored .060, head shaved.005, block shaved .005,  cam from LCEngineering .460 lift with 290 duration.  LC 4 long tubes into 1 2 1/4 inch open exhaust
recently dyno revealed 178 hp at 5500
have a listen http://www.mhdfl.com/forum/Glens-truck.mp3

and yes  with the stock NEW radiator  it did fine  crawlin, around town, driving 55 on  2 lanes,   but  when i opened it up on the interstate  or on long hills  it would get HOT,  i installed a used v6 (3 rows for those who dont know) radiator and its never run over 185* since


and  before you flop info out  you might want to know turbo radiators  are 3 row, as are the early diesel radiators

The radiator in my '86 2wd turbo is a 2row.  Just because I am new around here does not mean I am new to auto repair, performance mods, engine design and especially Toyota trucks.  I have  an '81 long bed 4x4 with a 20/22R hybrid, the head is ported and polished, has a stage 2 cam, oversize stainless valves, beehive springs with titanium retainers. It has a Weber 32/36 DGV, Doug thorley tri-y header and is bored .040 over.  It would haul my 30 foot (3600 lbs dry) airstream trailer at freeway speeds ALL FREAKING DAY with the stock radiator and not overheat!!

I received an A in a 36 unit college auto repair class in 1982.  Of course completing such a class does not give one the compliment of tools a mechanic needs so I worked in a carb shop for a couple of years and then a head shop for a couple more before operating my own garage for more than 12 years...how is that for flopping info out there YOU MOUTHY BIATCH!!!

1stgenboy

[79coyotefrg]

The radiator in my '86 2wd turbo is a 2row.  Just because I am new around here does not mean I am new to auto repair, performance mods, engine design and especially Toyota trucks.  I have  an '81 long bed 4x4 with a 20/22R hybrid, the head is ported and polished, has a stage 2 cam, oversize stainless valves, beehive springs with titanium retainers. It has a Weber 32/36 DGV, Doug thorley tri-y header and is bored .040 over. 

stage 2 what??  TRD ? LC? crane (crane as if they make a decent cam for a 22R)
and exactly, your engine is bored .040 i tell everyone that asks me  .040 is as far as they can go and keep the stock cooling system

It would haul my 30 foot (3600 lbs dry) airstream trailer at freeway speeds ALL FREAKING DAY with the stock radiator and not overheat!!

I received an A in a 36 unit college auto repair class in 1982.  Of course completing such a class does not give one the compliment of tools a mechanic needs so I worked in a carb shop for a couple of years and then a head shop for a couple more before operating my own garage for more than 12 years...how is that for flopping info out there YOU MOUTHY BIATCH!!!

1stgenboy

  you want to compare??  hows 2080 hours at ASA certified automotive technician schools, a little over 500 hours  and certification of structural welding,
ive never "worked in a shop" but ive rebuilt everything from 3 1/2 hp lawn mower engines  to D9 Caterpillar dozer engines in the field for the last 26 years,  and everything in between, including a Mercury Comet with a 250 ci inline 6 that made a mustang with a fresh 302  wet himself.   not to mention helping others on THIS forum for the last 6 years.

now that all the bull crap is said and done, lets help the OP  get his right

[79coyotefrg]

Think about it, the blades are cupped & angled for a reason. With the blades on backwards, the fan will be pushing the air forward (from the engine compartment to the grill) rather than pulling the air through the radiator (from the outside). With the fan clutch engaged & the engine hot, your sucking the hot air from around the engine & trying to pushing it through an already hot radiator. You need to have the much cooler air from outside the engine compartment.

Check & make sure you fan is on so it's pulling the air from the outside.

as you can see turning the fan backwards  does NOT  change the angle of the blades,  it DOES however change the blade pitch  which WILL cut your fans efficiency

[kneedownnate]

stage 2 what??  TRD ? LC? crane (crane as if they make a decent cam for a 22R)

Ummmm, guess who makes the trd cams 

[79coyotefrg]

Ummmm, guess who makes the trd cams 

  well  you know me Nate if its not .440-.460 lift and 290 duration it might as well be stock

[*ROKTOY*]

 

[Rocksurfer]

 

[wingdaddy]

I have suffered the same problem for years. After the excessive heat caused the engine to wear out prematurely, I had to replace it. All new fan, water pump, clutch, radiator, thermostat, timing chain, the works. It is your gear ratio. Change to 488's. I think you will solve your problem!