Topic: solid spacer install

[RN37DD]

i removed the crush sleeve and want to install a solid spacer. i measured the old crush sleeve and it's about .020 longer than the solid spacer. I've got a .018, .016 or .014 shim i can use. I'm thinking on using the .018. with the solid spacer, that's .002 smaller than the crush sleeve.  should that work or dose the crush sleeve actually flex more.. and i should use a smaller shim?

[All_Set]

Why wouldn't you just install one then measure the preload, and if within tolerances, run it  , if not, add remove shims until you got the desired preload   You've got everything apart, might as well do it right..

[RN37DD [OP]]

yeah i plan to measure the preload, but if someone has some tricks or secret to get it right the first shot, that would reduce the times i had to use the press to remove the rear bearing.  i have to use the press at work and they give me dirty looks when i work on my yota.

[cam011]

ZUK's website has some suggested starting points for shim thicknesses with the solid collar.
www.gearinstalls.com

[864runner]

if you are just setting up preload you shouldn't need a press. just a vice to hold the bulk head a good torque wrench and a preload gauge.  If you put shims behind the bearing you will be adjusting the pinion depth not the preload.  I would say pick one torque it down check the preload then you will know whether you need a thicker of thinner shim.  Thats the wonderfull world of building diffs sometimes you get it on the first shot and some times it takes multiple times.

[RN37DD [OP]]

thanks .. I'm going to leave the shims next to the pinion gear alone. just going to shim next to the solid spacer, between the bearings. it's the bearing next to the flange that needs the press when it's removed. of course the fsm shows it just falling out by hand. but i see ZUK had to use a press, so that's the way it is.

[All_Set]

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I believe a brass punch and a hammer will "press" that flange bearing off no issues.  Rubber mallet is all I've ever needed.   

If it's really that well pressed on, then hone out the old flange bearing and use it as a "spacer" to get you in the ballpark. That way you only need to press on the final bearing once or twice.

You would want to use the .018 shim, and measure preload.  IF it's not tight enough, you'll need to get more shims.

[RN37DD [OP]]

I've got a hammer and a high dollar napa brass punch. I'll give it a try. maybe .018 will be on the money, and i won't even have to smack it.

[cam011]

You would want to use the .018 shim, and measure preload.  IF it's not tight enough, you'll need to get more shims.

If it's not tight enough you need to remove shims, not add them.

Honing the bearing works good, there's no need for it to be a press fit. Once the flange is torqued down on the solid collar the inner races can't spin on the pinion shaft.

[RN37DD [OP]]

yeah i was thinking the smaller shims would tighten the preload. was going to get it done last night, but on my drive back i hit the brakes and my nice oiled bearing flew out of it's container and rolled around on my truck floorboard.  guess i should have cleaned up all than sand and gravel after that last river crossing. so I'll clean it up and get it done this week end.

[RN37DD [OP]]

used the .018 and it had zero preload. went to the .016 and it just had some, but still real light. with the .014 it has about 15 inch pounds starting preload. just a little over for a used bearing.  max i think is 11 inch pounds for a used bearing.