Author Topic: cheap 22r build (Read 6510 times)

4.3s10 · « **on:** Sep 13, 2005, 02:05:49 PM »

how much would it cost to rebuild a 22r (pistons, rings, bearings, cam, maybe a little head work) i would also like a little more low end out of it so what would be some good mods to do.

would a 3rz conversion be better or is it too much work or money for what its worth

t-tenkid · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 08:30:31 PM »

ive got about 250(employee discounts rock) into my engine but did all the work myself, ruffly 400 to 500 in parts otherwise. big mike did a 3rz swap thats pretty sweet, or you could yank that 4.4 outa your s10

RustyToy · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 08:39:37 PM »

does he say how much a 3rz conversion cost round about?

t-tenkid · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 08:45:46 PM »

don't think so, not real cheap though

4.3s10 · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 15, 2005, 11:58:54 AM »

400-500 into what types of parts?

also what is good company that makes cams that are also relativity cheap?

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 15, 2005, 01:00:54 PM »

www.engnbldr.com

toymech · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 15, 2005, 02:57:35 PM »

His parts look ok,but id use toyota or felpro gaskets. made that mistake before. also use new rockers with new cam,dont mix and match. good luck with the build,the parts are cheap but machine work is pricey

BigMike · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 15, 2005, 03:18:07 PM »

Expect to dish out close to $1500 for an older 3RZ conversion (95-96 from a T100) or upwards to $2500 for a completed conversion if you use a brand new 8k mile 2004 3RZ engine from a Tacoma.

I got my swap done for about $1000 and I couldn't be happier.

- 1995 T100 5spd 3RZ-FE with ECU, wiring harness, clutch and flywheel
- 1985-1988 W56 Transmission
- 1995-2005 W59 Bellhousing
- Relengthen drivelines (applied to me)
- Build an Exhaust system
- $70 wiring book from Toyota
- misc $ for wires, soder, and heat shrink, fuel lines, hose clamps, air filter, etc.
- upgraded radiator (applied to me)
- bought an efi fuel tank with fuel pump (applied to me)
- $45 to get it Smogged at a certified CA Referee station (applied to me)

That would be the majority of the things I had to do, got it all done for under $1k I am sure. Check my thread, any conversion will take lots of time and commitment, they are not a walk in the park.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4401.0

But the reward is unparalleled. My conversion gave me roughly 65 more horsepower and 55 more ft-lbs torque, and my 3RZ is still bone stock! Smogged far below the average, gets excellent gas mileage (avgs. about 20mpg between city and highway), modern EFI OBD-II system allows for simple and accurate diagnostics, more reliable designed components and engine; upgrading to a much newer engine (my engine is 14 years newer than my truck) offers tons of advantages.

But again, engine swaps are no walk in the park.

4.3s10 · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 16, 2005, 02:21:15 PM »

i was looking at cams at LC do they come with lifters and if so can you get roller lifters

t-tenkid · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 16, 2005, 07:07:33 PM »

if your just lookin to get it running rebuild the 22r, they do ok, some guys spend like7k though. obd11 is realy nice though.
i'd go with the genuine parts though.

RustyToy · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 17, 2005, 08:36:36 AM »

1000 is really cheap. i just payd 850 for a rebuilt 22r and i was willing to pay up to 2000 for one. i might have to start collecting those 3rz parts.

kyle_22r · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 18, 2005, 04:52:02 PM »

if the 22R you want to build doesn't have any major problems(broken timing chain cover, warped head, spun bearings etc) and is just tired and worn, you can do it for about $300-400 in parts if you use engnbldr's parts. i'd take the block in and get it honed and bored if necessary, and take a good look at all the crank journals to make sure they aren't scratched or worn excessively.

i'd got probably about $2k into my engine, but it would have been a lot less if i had gotten all my ducks in a row and done it RIGHT the first time by not using the warped head that it had(unbeknownst to me)

bluetoy84 · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 19, 2005, 12:14:14 PM »

I've built 5 22R's with a kit from www.22re.com . I think the kit is $280 + shipping. All parts are japanese , some are even OEM toyota. I have had really good luck with these kits so far. Depending on how much machine work is required I can usually build a motor for around $600.

If your looking for a little more performance than stock , I like a comp 260s cam. I had that cam in my '84 and it had a lot better low end power than the motor thats in my '89. Both where rebuilt 22re's with everything the same except my '89 has the stock cam. As soon as I get the time and money I'll have another comp in my '89. That's my

kyle_22r · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 19, 2005, 01:14:31 PM »

EB's late(85-95) kit is like $220

as well as my '91 runs, and doesn't use a drop of oil or blow any smoke, i got the itch to rebuild the 22RE. it'd give me a little more confidence in it after i've seen what's under the valve cover and inside the old timing cover. looks like the previous owner used pennzoil

there's so much sludge in the poor thing.

i think a slight overbore to clean everything up(pistons are a *little* wiggly after 180k), a new head with oversized valves and a little porting and a good mid range cam would make it even more fun to drive. but it's my dd, i can't get too carried away just yet

4.3s10 · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 19, 2005, 01:25:29 PM »

yea this motor runs OK a little smokey at start up but then it goes away so i think it might be the valve guides. I think i would probably do the block .030 over

4.3s10 · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 19, 2005, 01:43:02 PM »

does anyone have any pics of the tear down and or build up of their motor Ive done several Chevy smallblocks but never a Toyota so I'm just curious especially since its an in-line

grumpy1@netptc.net · « **Reply #16 on:** Oct 04, 2005, 02:22:54 AM »

i can get u a kit for about 350.00 just make sure crank is not out of round or grind it ,bore it,HAVE THE RODS RESIZED AND THE NEW WRISTPIN BUSHING REPLACED or youll regret it kit comes with everything but the want to
also have the head surfaced but not shaved -these motors suffer from detonation and if u raise the compresion you will compound the problem-but you can get away with it if u replace the cam with the trd off road unit this will reduce or prevent detonation
also set ur timing to specs if u over advance it you'll hate urself
very important aslo is the egr system if it does not working properly u will lose the head gasket between #3 and 4 cylinders
also make especially sure to retorque the head after the engine is run 500 miles and do this with the engine cold
the aftermarket head gaskets are thicker than stock to make up for the surfacing on the head and they compress alot so if u dont retorque the head it will lose a gasket at about 10-12 k miles
i have built several dozens of these engines and theree are just a few things u have to watch out for but other wise its pretty straight forward
the cam journals in the head are an area of concern if they are worn u should line bore the cam journals -this is an area that causes low oil pressure and is often overlooked
i recomend using the steel chain guides which run about 50.00 bucks more but u will get more miles out of the engine
if u dont want to do all this i have acess to rebuilt units at about 1600.00 with a 3 year 36k mile warranty 300.00 core

if i can help send me an e-mail at grumpy1@netptc.net
i dont often check this board so drop me a line or i wont see it for a while if u reply here --good luck and good wheelin grumpy------------

4.3s10 · « **Reply #17 on:** Oct 06, 2005, 09:55:38 AM »

well me and friend were walking around a local junkyard and found a fairly complete 7MGE for 100 bucks but with no guarantee so i think we might just go that way and tear it down do a mild rebuild and hopefully put it in this winter