Topic: Dual T-Cases on an '84 G52 Forward Shift Tranny & T-Case???

[79-83earlyota]

   ok, ok....i'm SURE it's been covered a million times on here before, but for whatever reason, i'm having no luck with the Search button!?!?!     Anyway....I have a 1984 X-Cab pick-up with a stock drivetrain: 22R and G52 forward shift tranny and t-case.  I would like to add a dual case set-up, with just a 2.28 reduction box.  My problem being, I know exactly how the set-up works with say, a W56 and a top-shift case, but this whole "forward shift" thing has me confoooosed.   I know the shifting forks for my t-case run into the back of my G52 tranny, and the shifter itself actually comes up at the very back of the tranny.  So long story short, what do I need to do to run dual cases?  I am unsure how this would work???  Do I need a 2nd forward shift type t-case, from another '84, or a top shifter from an '85-'88 for the donor crawl box.  I'M LOST!?!?!
***Again, sorry if this is a total repeat, but I couldn't find any info on it, honestly.

[Duffil]

you can use either.  the front(reduction) box will still be a forward shift, but the rear will be a top shift.  I say you can use either because MC sells a kit to convert to top shift.

[79-83earlyota [OP]]

so...steal the reduction box from the forward shift (the one I have now) and use a top shift for the part with the drive shaft outputs???  Wouldn't you have to convert the forward shift to top shift no matter what???   

[lowgeared]

You have to use a forward shift crawl box with a g-52.  No way around this.  Your rear case will be top shift.

[79coyotefrg]

yea just need a top shift for the tcase,  use your reduction box

[reklund5]

I've got the same setup in my pickup.  I used my standard forward shift t-case as the reduction box, still using the forward shifter in the back of the transmisssion.  Bolt the adaptor plate to the back of the reduction box, and bolt a top shift tcase to that.  The transmission shifter and reduction box shifter are in the factory positions, and the 2nd transfer case shifter comes up about 10" behind that.  It all works flawlessly.

I had a forward shift tcase as a donor, so I used Marlin's conversion kit to convert it to top-shift.  You can either use an existing top-shift tcase, or buy a forward-shift and convert it.

Does that answer your question?
Ryan

[79-83earlyota [OP]]

I've got the same setup in my pickup.  I used my standard forward shift t-case as the reduction box, still using the forward shifter in the back of the transmisssion.  Bolt the adaptor plate to the back of the reduction box, and bolt a top shift tcase to that.  The transmission shifter and reduction box shifter are in the factory positions, and the 2nd transfer case shifter comes up about 10" behind that.  It all works flawlessly.

I had a forward shift tcase as a donor, so I used Marlin's conversion kit to convert it to top-shift.  You can either use an existing top-shift tcase, or buy a forward-shift and convert it.

Does that answer your question?
Ryan

     Thanks Ryan, that REALLY answers my questions....those were the details I was looking for!!!  Thanks to the others who gave input too...it all helps.  How much should I expect to spend to get this all done??     Top shift t-case, adapter, drive shaft shortening/lengthening, etc.

[reklund5]

Well, it all depends on your mechanical ability and fabrication ability.  You can save a ton of money if you do the work yourself and have the equipment to do it correctly.

The adaptor is advertised at $339 on Marlins website, and figure another $100 for a top shift TCase from a local wrecking yard.  If you can do the install yourself, then you're good to go from there.  If you can weld, you can lengthen your front driveshaft yourself using your old rear driveshaft tubing.  (the front shaft won't need to be  balanced unless you use 4wd at high speeds frequently)  The rear driveshaft will need to be shortened, and I'd reccomend getting a double-cardan joint in the rear driveline.  You can use a late model Tacoma 2 piece driveshaft and just use the rear of the 2piece shaft and have it re-tubed to the proper length.  The Taco shafts are readily available at junkyards ($150?) and have the correct flanges on them to bolt up.  That's how I ended up doing mine....  Figure $100-150 for re-tubing the rear driveshaft and balancing, if everything else is ok with the shaft.  You'll also need to clock your rear axle so the pinion points at the tcase output at the correct angle.  Some get away with shims, some need to cut the perches off and weld new ones on so the axle is at the proper angle- it just depends on your setup.

Plan on clearancing the horse collar crossmember in the frame so the tcase output doesn't hit it, and I'd pony up for the dual case crossmember from Marlin ($195) if you can afford it.  The extra mount on that crossmember really reduces drivetrain flex and reduces the stress on the single mount that results from using the stock crossmember.

All said and done?  $950 or so, if you can do the work yourself.  It CAN be done cheaper, but not necessarily BETTER.

[Ramrod]

you don't have to use a forward shift with a g52 I have to topshifters behind mine just cause I had them but I had to make a plate to cover the hole

[Hyena]

you don't have to use a forward shift with a g52 I have to topshifters behind mine just cause I had them but I had to make a plate to cover the hole

Same thing i did.