- for the exhaust I bought 2 tight radius u-bent pieces from Jegs and cut off bits of angle as I needed them to route the exhaust under the Cressida oil pan (with heat shields on top of the pipe to keep heat away from the oil pan) – also try to keep the catalytic converter as close to the engine as possible so it can get hot enough to pass emissions – another option would be to run the exhaust down the passenger side and cross it over under the t-case, there is just enough room to fish the pipe through a hole between the t-case / crossmember / frame rail, this setup would also allow you to mount the cat converter just after the exhaust manifold (while this routing would be easier, I didn’t like it for a couple reasons)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/exhman.jpg)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/exhaust.jpg)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/catconv.jpg)
- firewall will need to be clearanced slightly for the EGR valve on the driver side and for the 90* coolant hose on the passenger side (hose barely touches metal if not clearanced)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/EGRclearance.jpg)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/coolanthose.jpg)
- relocated battery from passenger to driver side, I used the factory alternator wire to get power from the new battery location to the original fuse box (I later ran an additional 10 ga wire and added a 120 amp manual reset circuit breaker for accident safety)
![](http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/7MGE%20swap/battery.jpg)
- the actual wiring of everything is in this link -
7M Wiring - if you are comfortable with a soldering iron and 12V electrical, there’s nothing to it.