Hmmm........
Well, Im my opinion, I would not want to relay on a jack to catch the t/case, especially of its odd shape.
BigMike's Personal Transfercase Removal Procedure:I would disconnect both drivelines from the t/case (don't need to remove them from the diffs), drain the t/case, remove the shifter, disconnect spd cable, unplug 4WD light plug, and then put the jack under the crossmember and give it some pressure up.
Then remove the 8 19mm bolts holding the crossmember to the frame, and also remove the 4 14mm bolts holding the t/case crossmember mount to the bottom of the t/case, and then slowly let the jack down....... all the way down until the crossmember and mount come free from the t/case. Keep an eye on the transmission shift handle as your are lowering the drivetrain down. If you have a chassis lowering kit (aka. "Body Lift") but did not also lengthen your tranny shifter, then I would be more concerned about it. You might need to remove the tranny shift knob and/or remove the whole trans shifter completely. I try to get away without having to remove it though. Shift the transmission into 3rd gear and hopefully it won't give you any trouble
Don't remove the mount from the crossmember, just remove the 14mm bolts connecting the mount to the bottom of the reduction housing of the t/case.
At this point, with the crossmember lowered and removed, and whole engine and drivetrain would be hanging down and held up only by the engine mounts and slight pressure from the exhaust system. This is ok as long as your exhaust system is healthy and you don't start doing pull-ups from the back of the t/case. Having it all hanging from the engine mounts for 30mins or so wouldn't be bad, but I would definitely jack it all back up to near stock height if I were to go to sleep or finish the job at a later time..
Then I would remove the 6 14mm bolts that connect the front of the t/case to the rear of the transmission -- but I would leave one of the upper 14mm bolts untouched until all of the other 5 bolts are completely removed. Remember, some t/case gear oil will be in the back section of the transmission tail housing, so expect about 10 ounces of gear oil to drain once the seal between the trans and t/case is broken. Put some rags under it or your drain pan.
Then I would slowly remove the last remaining bolt, and as the t/case begins to tilt down, it will apply more pressure on the input-coupler. Keeping one hand on the t/case, I would make sure it did not suprise me and just fall out on top of me.
FYI, in my experiences, I have never had a t/case just slip out and fall to the ground in this situation. But there is a first time for everything, so I would just keep a little bit of pressure on the t/case with my free hand while I remove the last 14mm bolt. The friction of the t/case input to transmission output coupler has always been enough to hold the t/case in one place without it falling to the earth.
After I remove the last 14mm bolt, then get all of the bolts and tools out of the way, and pull the t/case out from the back of the transmission.
If you kept the floor relatively clean or you don't mind getting a bit dirty, then I usually ditch the creeper at this point and just lay on my back. I can't stand having to control the creeper from rolling around while I am trying to pull out a freak'n transfercase
It shouldn't be too hard to do! Good luck!
