Fresh off the Pirate 4x4 FAQ:
Birfield Stuff
Separating a birf from and axle:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/show...4839#post334839Originally posted by desertoy
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What everyone needs to know about Longfields
After months of testing myself and talking to other people that run them I have compiled a list of things that Longfield owners need to pay attention to. These are not suggestions, these are facts based on multiple failure analysis.
1. You must grease these things before you install them.
2. They will be blue in color when you receive them and you will have to tap them on the axle splines when you first install them but that is OK.
3. You must use a "Martack" on your inner axles. When measuring for the Martack, grease the inner axle splines on the side that slides in the differential. Install the inner axle by its self just far enough so that the seal surface on the axle matches up with the lip of the oil seal and then remove it. look at the impression in the greased splines that the splines in the 3rd member made and put your martack so that the axle cannot slide in any further than your mark. DO NOT GO BY ANYONE ELSES MEASUREMENT! There are too many variables. Just do it yourself and you will be sure that it is right. [edit by 4RnrRick - I prefer using masking tape on the spines instead of grease for determining the correct location for a martack. Also the reason for the martack is so that if you break an inner axle shaft it would be nearly impossible to remove the broken piece from inside the birf cage if the outermost snap ring is left on the inner axle shaft.]
4. Before you install the knuckle, clean it up real good and either remove the top 4 trunnion bolts (the ones that the steering arm mounts to) and reinstall them with permanent thread locker, or make sure that they are seated properly and tack weld them on the inside of the knuckle.
5. You MUST use a snap ring on the locking hub side of the Longfield. There are 2 snap ring grooves on the Longfield end of the axle shaft. You must NOT use a snap ring on the outside (the part that goes inside of the Longfield) of the axle shaft. You MUST use a snapring on the groove that is just outside of the Longfield. This will keep the axle from sliding too far in the longfield and damaging the end of the axle shaft.
6. The factory steering stops are made out of a piece of angle iron that is welded onto the axle tube. These stops are weak and WILL bend with use and throw off your steering stop adjustment. Either weld a bolt down the center of them to strengthen them or cut then off and replacement them with something stronger.
7. The steering stop adjustment is the most critical adjustment you can do to make you steering components and your Longfields live. To do this you must start by centering your steering box. With your drag link disconnected, rotate your steering wheel from lock to lock while counting the turns of the steering wheel. Divide that # by 2, to get the # of turns from lock position to center. With the steering box centered, hook up the drag link without moving the steering wheel. The knuckle assembly MUST be centered also. If it is not, adjust the length of your drag link to accomplish this. Next, disconnect the tie rod, and with the drag link hooked up and the steering stops backed off all the way, turn the wheel all the way to the left until the Longfield binds. You can tell when it binds by having a buddy turn the hub (tire) while you do this. When the hub (tire) gets hard to turn, the Longfield is binding. Set your stops on the right (passengers) knuckle so that this does not happen. Now turn the wheel all the way to the right and do the same thing. Next, hook up you tie rod and with the Left (drivers) side steering stops backed off turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until the RIGHT (passengers)steering stop does its job. Adjust the LEFT (drivers) steering stop at this point. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and do the same thing. This adjustment needs to be checked periodically. {edit by 4rnrrick: Also re-enforcing them will help stop them from crushing. Welding 5/8-11unc nuts in them work well.}
8. Go wheeling but make sure to bring spare inner axle shafts.
9. If you break a Longfield change it immediatly. Call Bobby when you get home and if it meets the warrenty criteria he will send you another one.
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The above list should probably be also applied to any type of aftermarket Birfield / Marfield / Newfield/ Longfield/ Smurfield / WhateverField....
Originally posted by RustyPOS
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trail fix - if you don't have an axle seal when you break a birfield use about a 1/4" slice of (toyota) radiator hose ...it still leaks a little but it doesn't dump out..
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Birfield - How to change one quickly Camo method
I wonder how many of you guys out there are aware of the "Camo Method" of replacing Birfields on a Toy axle:
Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
Sawp in your parts.
Put it back together.
It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.
