Hey Colston...
There are guys on here that know way more than I do about that carb. H8PVMNT has made love to his carbs more than a few times.
WALKER PRODUCTS 15827A Info
Carb Manufacturer: Aisin: 2 BBL; Carb Model: Aisan
If you look down the carb with engine not running, and pull the throttle linkage fairly quickly and smoothly you should see a fine stream of fuel squirt into the venturi.
If the stream is broken up, then the AAP is bad.
If NO stream of fuel - then you have to throw the carb away and get a new one.
NO!!! I’m kidding!!
If there is no fuel being squirted, I suspect the float valve is stuck.
If you pull the throttle linkage slowly you should see a nice steady unbroken stream of fuel being squirted from the Auxillary Accelerator Pump.
I rebuilt the carb on my 1985 22R Pickup back in 1999, so it’s been quite awhile, I’m pulling this out of my old memory bank.
I would buy the Walker kit, but the Rochester on RockAuto looks good too.
If you buy a kit for AutoZone or other auto parts store, ask who makes the kit. Like most aftermarket auto parts, some are good and some are junk.
The Walker part number for your 1981 is the same part number for the 1985, so it’s the same carb.
I don’t remember any carb that I rebuilt that requires special tools.
When I rebuild my carbs, I clean the carb with carb cleaner and blow it off with compressed air. If you don’t have a compressor you can use canned air.
When you disassemble the carb there may be some fuel in it, so do it over a clean bucket or some thick rags.
Some people soak the carb in bucket of solvent overnight, I don’t like to soak anything overnight, so I clean the parts with carb cleaner and a small brush, and air. If I soak any parts I use paint thinner and soak for 10 or 15 minutes.
I get a big old terrycloth towel and lay it out on a nice big flat table when I’m ready to start the rebuilding. I follow the kit’s instructions.
There are lots of parts, so I work on a table sitting down, relaxed, in a quiet place and plenty of light. TAKE YOUR TIME! Be extra careful not to lose any little parts, like the ball check bee-bees, o’rings, and spring clips. The measurement for the float level needs to be exact. Torque things nice and snug, but don’t over tighten them – brass alloy is relatively is soft.
Cleanliness is critical as you reassemble the parts.
Let us know what you find out.
Gnarls.
