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Author Topic: Front axle service write-up  (Read 37827 times)

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helipilot77

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Re: Front axle service write-up
« on: Aug 14, 2014, 05:26:58 PM »
Before the knuckle is installed its seal set must first be installed.

In order to install both of the trunion bearings, they must be installed before the knuckle is installed. the top can simply be set into its race. the bottom one must be held in place while installing the knuckle. It honestly isn't too difficult just use the knuckle itself to hold the bearing in place while slipping it over the ball.

Then the Lower shim and cap can be installed. The Marlin kit comes with some great new hardware. The serrated conical washers are something I have never used before but they look awesome.

Install the new bolts with the washer, coating the threads with lock-tite. while you tighten the bolts with a 17mm socket the pin on the lower bearing cap will be drawn into the bearing. you may have to guide it to make sure it doesn't get jammed off to the side. Torque these lower knuckle cap bolts to 71 ft.lbs.

Line up the tie rod with the tapered hole then install the castle nut. Torque the castle nut to 67 ft.lbs. with a 17mm socket ensuring that the hole in the stude aligns with the slots in the castle nut, then install the cotter pin through the hole in the castle nut and into the bolt. Bend the cotter pin so it won't come out. Then do the same with the drag link.

Now install the upper steering arm shim followed by the Steering arm. Insert the cone washer followed by the flat washers and nuts onto the studs. Just as with the lower cap give the assembly guidance as you tighten the nuts with a 17mm socket, to ensure that the bearings line up with the pins. then also torque the nuts to 71 ft.lbs.

Hold the back side knuckle seals into place then install one of the metal retainers with four of the eight 12mm bolts. Then install the other retainer along with its four bolts.

Before installing the axle shafts pack the birfield full of a high quality grease. then they are ready to go back in.

When installing axle shafts make sure the flat spots on the birfield bell are at top and bottom orientation. In order to slide it in you will have to move it around in order to line it up inside the differential side gears. You also may have to turn the driveshaft in order to line up the splines. It can be helpful to have a friend around for this step, but can certainly be accomplished solo.

pack more grease around the birfield inside the knuckle. The Factory Service Manual recommends packing the knuckle 3/4 full.

Now install the spindle gasket with the three flat sides so that the bolt holes line up with the holes on the front of the knuckle. I have experienced problems with RTV coated gaskets not sealing properly so I am using an aviation gasket adhesive.

Install the spindle over the gasket (DO NOT INSTALL THE BOLTS YET).

Install the other gasket with the small gap cut out on the bottom.

Then install the brake backing plate (or backing plate eliminator if you have them). In order to install the backing plate rotate it so that the caliper cut-out is in the top position, then slide it over the spindle. Once it is all the way against the spindle rotate it so that the caliper cut-out is facing the rear of the vehicle, then the bolt holes should line up.

Install the metal ring with the rubber dust seal. Then install the eight spindle bolts with a 14mm socket and torque them to 38 ft.lbs.

If you are replacing you wheel bearings, drive the old bearing races out of the inside of the hub with a steel drift.

Note: If the new bearing races are placed in the freezer for a few hours the cold will cause them to shrink in size slightly making them easier to install.

Drive the new bearing races in evenly with either a huge socket (what I used) or a brass drift. Just make sure the bearing surface doesn't get scratched or nicked.

Drop the larger of the two wheel bearings into the back side of the hub/rotor assembly.

Place the oil seal on the back of the hub.

Then using a wooden block, evenly drive the seal into place with a hammer. Then apply a thin coat of grease to the seal surface.

The Factory Service Manual says to coat the inside of the hub with grease.

Install the hub/Rotor assembly onto the spindle.

Then place the smaller wheel bearing onto the spindle.

Install the wheel bearing washer so that the tab lines into the slot on the spindle threads.

Install the first spindle nut and hand tighten it.

Then using a HUGE 54mm socket tighten the spindle nut to 54 ft.lbs. and rotate the hub right and left two or three times.

Loosen the spindle nut to just hand tight, then using a spring pull scale on one of the lug nuts (fish scale) re-tighten the spindle nut until the pull scale takes between 6.2 and 12.3 pounds to rotate the hub.

Install the lock washer with the tab in groove just as the bearing washer was.

Then install the second spindle nut and torque it to 33 ft.lbs.

Bend the lock tabs over the sides of the spindle nut to lock it in place.
« Last Edit: Feb 19, 2018, 09:21:30 AM by helipilot77 »
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

 
 
 
 
 

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